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고구려인의 복식문화 고찰

  • 양경애
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.25
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    • pp.185-199
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    • 1995
  • Among many different approches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by in-cluding political, militarial, economical, cul-tural, and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes accord-ing to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations in variety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physi-cal activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed its role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Baseed on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving. Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating with feathers. Jowoguan is one of the exemples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect, this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however means and womens wear were claryly dis-tinguished. Unlike other clothes that were re-stricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume. Monks wore black cloth-ing that was influenced from China and the Western Regions. To emphasize their religious power. Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of five and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

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Play Costume from the Mural Paintings of Goguryeo (고구려 고분벽화에 나타난 놀이복식)

  • Yim, Lynn;Lee, Tae-Ho
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.3
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    • pp.10-25
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    • 2010
  • The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

An Analysis of the Image of Domestic Men's Outdoor Wear (국내 남성 아웃도어 웨어에 나타난 이미지 분석)

  • Yoo, Hyun Jeong;Kim, Jeong Mee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.399-411
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    • 2016
  • This research reviewed the developmental process of domestic outdoor wear and later analyzed the images given out by men's outdoor wear. The research results are as follows. First, military supplies left by American soldiers were dyed or reformed and then worn, and daily wear were mainly worn in the 1960s. Wears made from light and waterproof materials were worn and equipments were used in the 1970s. High functioning materials which allowed simultaneous breathability, waterproof and thermal insulation functions were used for wears in the 1980s. For the jacket especially, functionality was enhanced sith zippers, snaps and velcro to prevent cold air penetration in the 1990s. Florescent piping decorations and logo decorations, and prints and colors which reflected the trend, were used to emphasize fashionity and decorativeness in the 2000s. Second, Sophisticated image emphasized urban feeling with toned-down windbreaker jackets without much detail, with down jacket and pants. Casual image expressed a relaxed feeling with windbreaker jacket, shirts, jumper, vest and pants made of cotton, mesh knit and denim. Active image emphasized functionality by brightly colored windbreaker jackets, down jacket and pants. Ethnic image expressed an exotic mood with windbreaker jackets with stylized prints, with jumper, down jacket and pants. Military image showed a strong masculine feeling with jackets adorned with epaulettes, khaki colors and camouflage prints, with jumper, T-shirts, vest, shorts and pants. Avantgarde image exuded an experimental and unique feeling with jackets made of various colors and materials, such as cotton, jersey and glossy materials, with down jacket and jersey pants.

A Study on the Formative Character of Maximalism Shown in the Works of Alexander McQueen (알렉산더 맥퀸(Alexander McQueen) 작품에 나타난 맥시멀리즘(Maximalism))

  • Lee, Ji-Hyun;Roh, Youn-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.6
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    • pp.165-181
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    • 2012
  • Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.

A study on nail art design based on the application of trimmings in the 18th century women's clothes - Focus on braids, laces, and ribbons - (18세기 여성 의복에 나타난 트리밍을 응용한 네일아트 디자인 연구 - 브레이드, 레이스, 리본을 중심으로 -)

  • Cho, Han-Sol;Rhee, Young-Ju
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.21 no.4
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    • pp.127-137
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    • 2019
  • Nail art, which has been popularized recently, has increased convenience in the direction of nail art design harmonized with clothing and the increased interest and usage of nail art decoration. This study set out to propose practical planar and three-dimensional nail art designs in harmony with modern clothes by applying trimmings common in 18th century women's clothing, which used a variety of attachable decorations. As for the methodology, the investigator examined theories in previous studies, literature, and analyzed the types of trimming in female portraits from the 18th century at the museum at the Palace of Versailles in France. Planar and three-dimensional nail art designs were created for each of the top three trimming types- braids, laces, and ribbons, which were identified through analysis. The study applied the trimmings of the 18th century women's clothes to nail art design and had the following results: First, the top three trimming types were identified based on the analysis of the 18th century portraits. They were then used as motifs in the production of planar and three-dimensional nail art designs. The results show that the motifs of the clothes trimmings were fit for and had practical possibilities for expression in nail art designs. Secondly, diversity and the expansion of ideas in the study of nail art design were promoted. In addition, elements were increased to have mutually complementary effects with clothes. Finally, the study made various attempts at nail design methods by adopting a range of nail art expression techniques including hand painting, 2D & 3D art techniques, and using planar and three-dimensional nail decorations, thus proposing a positive direction for the organization of a curriculum to make use of 18th century women's clothing motifs in nail art education.

A study on the characteristics of female shoes in 2000's (여성구두의 디자인 특성에 관한 연구 -2000년대를 중심으로-)

  • Chae, Min-Jung;Koo, Kyo-Jong;Chae, Jin-Mee
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.17 no.5
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    • pp.975-987
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this thesis is to conduct a thorough research on shoes of 2000s, understand the changes and analyze the differences and the characteristics of the shoe designs of the past and present in order to predict and indicate the future direction of the women shoe designs. The shoes of the millennium not only kept the old fashioned shapes but also showed futuristic shapes. With the increasing importance of shoes in fashion, shoes with various images were created. As far as the materials are concerned, natural materials and artificial materials were both used. The colors were vivid and the futuristic colors. On the other hand, pastel toned colors and romantic colors were used in many different designs and shapes regardlees of the seasons. Straps and hills differed from the oldies. Heavy decorations were added to strap shoes to form a whole new design and hills show geometrical platforms or the avantgarde like heights. Feminine images overwhelmed the shoe designs of the millennium. To elaborate, Pumps displayed feminine images the most for it showed a high frequency number regardless of the seasons. Shoes are presented in aesthetical perspective rather then functional or practical perspectives that are based on human nature. Cultural, social, environmental and some part religious factors had a great influence on the evolution on the shoes. Especially in the 2000s, future oriented concepts were implemented on shoe designs, resulting a wider range of expressiveness and in the end leading to a more creative shoe designing. Changes in shoe designs could be pointed out in many ways according to the shapes materials, colors, modeling of decorations or also with the diverting trends.

The value and utilization of Pyojihwajomoonkeum (silk fabric with lingering flowers and bird patterns) - Focusing on Baekje cultural area storyteller clothing - (표지화조문금(縹地花鳥紋錦)의 가치와 활용 - 백제문화권 스토리텔러복을 중심으로 -)

  • Ra, Sun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.23 no.2
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    • pp.147-153
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    • 2021
  • Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

Proposal of a prospective public convenience through vertical division of space;TOILET TOWER (공간의 수직분할을 통한 미래형 공중화장실 제안;타워식 화장실)

  • Son, Bo-Ra
    • Proceeding of Spring/Autumn Annual Conference of KHA
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    • 2006.11a
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    • pp.212-215
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    • 2006
  • The Beautiful rest room is simple how to think. We need to understand that excretion is important as much as eating. When we didn't have foods, eating was important in itself no matter what our lives environments. But now we want to eat in more dignified and more cultural place. Most of restaurants spend money on adjusting place for the consumes' desire. It is same way about rest room, it is time to change our rest room to place of rest and speculation over the place which we fix our natural urge. We can fix our natural urge, take a rest, and get creative ideas in more convenient, more healthy and more comfortable. It is time for us to change out thought about rest room; it is not dirty and stink place, but civilized living place like developed country. Also, we need new concept to take a triangular position about rest room is one of structure over just decorations. This research suggest new public rest room without precedent based on instance analysis about rest room inside and outside the country.

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A Comparative Study on the Formative Relation of Yangban's Residential Architecture and Furniture in the Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 양반계층의 주택과 가구의 조형적 연계성에 대한 비교연구)

  • Kim, Jin-Ok
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.15 no.5 s.58
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    • pp.3-11
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    • 2006
  • Our residential architecture and furniture have developed their unique formative characteristics under the influence of the natural environment as well as under socio-cultural influence. In order to understand such characteristics of our residential architecture and furniture, we need to clarify similarities and differences through comparative study from various perspectives. The present study purposed to examine the effects of mutual relations among Yangban's residential architecture and their furniture in the Chosun Dynasty on their formative characteristics, to identify the formative characteristics of shapes, materials, colors, patterns and decorations found in the residential architecture and their furniture, and to make a comparative analysis of the formative characteristics of the residential buildings and their furniture. This research will provide a ground for reinterpreting our culture and help to apply Korean culture identity to today's interior and furniture design.

Korean Resident's Identity of Housing in Canada (캐나다 교민의 주거아이덴티티에 관한 연구)

  • 박선희
    • Journal of the Korean housing association
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.109-118
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate identity of Korean resident's on housing in Canada. A questionnaire survey method was used to collect data for this study. Results of the analyses showed that Korean styled decorations were the most possessions to express their identity, while the possession degrees of Korean household goods and Korean style furniture were relatively low. An electric mat and a low table were frequently being used in their home. The using degree of these goods were significantly different according to the residential period in Canada. Almost Korean-canadian tended to have a style of sitting on the floor in the behavior of sewing, ironing, entertaining, watching the T.V. This behavior style were significantly different according to family income, houses style, the house ownership.