• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.84-97
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• 2007

Dancing with weapons existed spontaneously when war and hunting were common, and sword dancing, as a dance for banquets, developed and changed in various forms. In Korea, sword dancing was performed from the Three Dynasty Period, and in Joseon Dynasty, it was performed as court ceremony. The origin of the sword dancing, that has been performed from the Joseon Dynasty until now, and costumes for sword dancing isn't accurate. The purpose of this study is to analyze the sword dancing costume of China, Korea's neighboring country, and that of Korea in the same period, and to find out the process of wearing military uniform: Jun-mo, Jeo-go-ri, Chi-ma, Gwae-ja, and Jun-dae, being settled as the sword dancing costumes of Korea in late Joseon Dynasty. In China, sword dancing became famous in Han Dynasty, and in Tang Dynasty, it was the meridian of sword dancing with the most magnificent form. After the Song Dynasty, the sword dancing fades away. In Korea, the sword dancing started as a mask dancing of children that Hwa-rang(bravery youth) in Shilla Dynasty started. After the Unified Shiila Period, the sword dancing of Tang Dynasty spread to Korea, with active interchange between the two countries. After the Corea Dynasty, the mask dancing of children faded and the sword dancing of Tang Dynasty changes into Korean form. It was incorporated into the court ceremony after the mid-period of Joseon Dynasty, and the costumes were settled as the military uniform, which are Gwae-ja, and Jun-dae on top of Chi-ma, and Jeo-go-ri, and Jun-moon the head.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.123-138
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• 2002

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the 16th. 17th century with their normal style of dress. In brief. this study wants people to know about 16th, 17th century court dancing costumes and to understand the culture in the 16th.17th century. From the comparison between the court's dancing costume and the people's clothes, we could get the conclusion as follows. First, pourpoint. chemis, gown, chausses, etc. that people wore were used for the court's dancing costume. While people Pursued the beauty with the ample silhouette. there were used wrinkles. slits. and tailored oblique line-clothes that gave vitality. Second, silk. linen. brocade. etc. that were used for people's chemises were used for the dancing costume. The good quality and beautiful colors of the dancing costume. however. excelled than of the brilliant court's clothes and the people's clothes. Third. the hair style of dancers were very colorful. For example, there were many kinds of hats and furs, corals, etc. that were attached to them on the most of the long curly hair. In summary, for the court's dancing costume, the same type of clothes was used like the people's clothes. There, however, were differences. The slits, tailored oblique line-clothes and shortened skirt gave the activity. There were many decorations symbolizing the nobles' wealth and Power. Especially the use of the decoration of hair and other stake properties was an effective means for expression. The use of personified masks also contributed to the development of the court dance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.638-647
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to discover the interrelationship between modern costumes and Seung-Hee Choi's dancing costumes in 1930s. Seung-Hee Choi, who was a dancing pioneer in Korea, introduced the modern dancing costumes for the first time in Korea. The results are as followed ; First, we can find Eroticism in Choi's dancing dress. Choi's dancing costume had used gold thread, silver thread, spangle, see-through and a half-naked body clothing that decorated with beads and cords. It is similar to modern costumes in ubjet mtter, silhouette, design, and so on. Second, the influence of Futurism was in her dancing costumes, that is, it represented asymmetry designs and rectilineal figures. Third, not only beauty but also a Functionalism was expressed in her dancing costumes. Functional beauty was shown through bias cut, pleats, slit, and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.48-56
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2003

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the middle age with their normal style of dress. In brief, this study wants people to know about middle a9e dancing costumes and understand the culture in the middle ages. It was found that people's everyday clothes in the middle age such as Surcot. Surcot-ouvert, Pourpoint, Houppelande were used as dancing costumes. They were, however. changed from the public's clothes which were tight and long. Rather than wearing costume over others. dancers wore costumes which had slits on skirt or sleeves to increase motion. With the Wild Man of the Wood's which only nobles used for their dancing costumes. costumers highlighted the beauty of human body There were various costume materials used in the middle ages like silk. cotton fabrics, linen or brocade. These materials were used for Surcot and Pourpoint as dancing costumes. The naturalness of nature or geometric patterns also was expressed on the costumes. Further about those patterns, because the development of stained glass, vivid colors were used especially red, light green, blue etc. As for the hair styles used, dancers let their hair down and put a jeweled crown over their hair. In summation. dancers wore the same clothes that normal People did, but the costumes were different depending on social status and gender. The costumes of ordinary people's were based upon ordinary clothes that moved and emphasized the dynamic motion. On the other side, the court dancers' costumes were very fancy. symbolizing a measurement of nobles' from wealth and authority. as well as an expression of a sense of beauty, The main features of middle ages follows. : To emphasize vitality, there were long slits on the side of skirt. Hair decorations and jewels are more used than in the ancient age's. To hide a dancer's social status. they could use a mask. Wild Man of the Wood's was used for the body makeup. All these features of the dancing costumes must contribute to the progress of the dance in the middle age's.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.142-150
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• 1997

Korean ritual dancing was doing in a royal court when an auspicious event happen in a country, a ritual ceremony was hold or reception for an envoy came from the other country was hold. There were 53 kinds of ritual dancing in Korea. Gumgee-Mu was the one among of them. Yea-Reung(woman ritual dancer) were dancing Gumgee-Mu with a sword. For Gumgee-Mu they wore a Kaeja(快子), Haebsuyoi(挾袖衣). Above it they took a Jeandae(戰帶), Jeanlib(戰笠). The dancing suit\`s color had a harmony with well mixed. Lunar-Solar-Five-Natural(陰陽五行) of oriented traditional concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.41-52
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• 2000

During the 3C(B.C.) and 2C(A.D.), there were large influx of variety of arts to Jin and Han dynasty such as music, dancing, and at performing from neighboring countries. It made a tremendous impact on the development of dancing an in Han dynasty. On the other hand, Kokurye people had also enjoyed their own singing and dancing culture (styles) for a long time. Han and Kokurye's dancing costumes were studied based on artifacts (data) such as wall paintings, clay doll, and other small paintings all from tombs in Han and Kokurye. A similarity was found between two dynasties' dancing costume, since both had tong sleeve dresses. However, the further detailed study showed that one can't simply say both are in the same style. For example, the dress in Han dynasty had a long length style of coat(深衣) covering all the way to feet, and there were round neckline coat(團領) and long Jacket(장유). In contrast, that of Kokurye had a shorter length in coat(直領) covering only up to calf of the leg or long jacket(장유).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.124-137
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.15-37
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• 2011

This study is on dancing dresses of the costumes of Gum-Mu(劍舞, sword dance) in southern, central, and northern region of Korea, focusing on the origin, characteristics and the way of dance. The reason why the Gum-Mu is full of local color is that royal Korean Gisaeng(妓生) and local Gisaeng returned to their hometown and propagated this dance to each regional Kyobang. They combined court sword with each local dance and music and formed the present style of regional Gum-Mu. Dance and music native to area, which has formed today's regional Gum-Mu. The composition of current dancing costume of the sword dance is Jeogori, Chima, Jeondae(戰帶), Jeonrib(戰笠), Kwaeja(快子) Also, The complement colors harmonizing with color of Yin-Yang & Five Elements. which are yellow, blue, white, red, and black, are usually used. And the masculinity in dance were expressed withmore use of blue, and red in the opposite but if a sword dance takes on masculine character, blue color is more used, if feminie character, reddish colors, such as pink and red, are used. Thus, JinJu, Honam, Haeju, Pyeongyang dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature blue color, Tongyeong, Kyeonggi, Court(seoul)dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature reddish color.