With considerable development of comfortable and functional clothing in recent years, we need to evaluate the effects of garment pressure in daily wear on each parts of human body because the garment pressure is important to design the clothing. This study was designed to examine the effects of body postures on garment pressure on each parts of human body in the actual clothing conditions. All the data were collected from 50 volunteered subjects. The Garment pressure was measured in lune and December with 8 points CPMS clothing pressure system from scapular, upper am, elbow, under arm, front waist line, side waist line, abdomen, crista ilica, upper hip, middle hip, front thigh, back thigh, front knee and back knee. The postures of subjects were controlled with 3 positions such as standing (posture 1), sitting on the chair (posture 2), and sitting on the floor (posture 3) during measurement of clothing pressure. Clothing weights were more in men than in woman. It showed that clothing weights had no effects on the garment pressure. In this study, however, just the garment pressures on scapular and top of the hip increased significantly by clothing weight (p<. 05). Clothing horizontally pressed on scapular and top of hip but not on other parts. When subjects stood up, the garment pressure was the highest on the side waist. Especially, clothing pressure on the front waist point was lower than that of the left side waist. On the upper parts of the human body, the garment pressure of left side waist was the highest, and followed by front waist, crista ilica, and abdomen in order. When subjects were sitting on the chair, the garment pressure on the lower parts of the human body was the highest on the top of hip. When the subjects were sitting on the chair or on the floor, the surface area on their skin of hip and waist parts increased by postures. In addition, it showed that men felt more comfortable than women on higher clothing pressure level.
The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.14
no.4
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pp.89-98
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2012
The purpose of this study is to female child Han-bok reform design for body growth. Nowadays there is common the western style daily life and special day instead of traditional style Han-bok in Korea. So the decrease in the use of Han-bok have being appeared. Specially, Children's Han-bok undesirable clothes for economic, environment, and resources because of their rapid growth and changing trend. Therefor, they do away with used Han-bok without next buying of school age. Children's parents and children are decision together purchase of children's Han-bok on-line for pleasure and economic reasons on pre-school or 1st year student for their tradition-education class. After 2000year, children's Han-bok pup-up on e-market because of the fashion focus on tradition and Korean wave for parody of Korean drama. Flowing the Research of 2010 Size Korea, the elementary school age child height growth 6cm per year, the sleeve length are 3cm growth. But Chi-ma(a pice of Han-bok) from e-market, has only 5cm margin on shoulder and no margin on Jegori(a pice of Han-bok) shoulder and sleeve, reason of that the children can't wear next year. Therefor this study is development female child Han-bok reform design for body growth, for extend to wear Han-bok on school age children and flow tradition custom of Cho-sun Dynasty's clothing custom for boost tradition conscious and reduce of cloth waste for environment.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.18
no.2
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pp.221-236
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2016
The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.
This research reviewed the developmental process of domestic outdoor wear and later analyzed the images given out by men's outdoor wear. The research results are as follows. First, military supplies left by American soldiers were dyed or reformed and then worn, and daily wear were mainly worn in the 1960s. Wears made from light and waterproof materials were worn and equipments were used in the 1970s. High functioning materials which allowed simultaneous breathability, waterproof and thermal insulation functions were used for wears in the 1980s. For the jacket especially, functionality was enhanced sith zippers, snaps and velcro to prevent cold air penetration in the 1990s. Florescent piping decorations and logo decorations, and prints and colors which reflected the trend, were used to emphasize fashionity and decorativeness in the 2000s. Second, Sophisticated image emphasized urban feeling with toned-down windbreaker jackets without much detail, with down jacket and pants. Casual image expressed a relaxed feeling with windbreaker jacket, shirts, jumper, vest and pants made of cotton, mesh knit and denim. Active image emphasized functionality by brightly colored windbreaker jackets, down jacket and pants. Ethnic image expressed an exotic mood with windbreaker jackets with stylized prints, with jumper, down jacket and pants. Military image showed a strong masculine feeling with jackets adorned with epaulettes, khaki colors and camouflage prints, with jumper, T-shirts, vest, shorts and pants. Avantgarde image exuded an experimental and unique feeling with jackets made of various colors and materials, such as cotton, jersey and glossy materials, with down jacket and jersey pants.
In this study, we have focused on various types of costumes for traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae. To analyze their costumes, spot photographs of Ganggangsullae contests from 2011 and 2013 were collected from the Department of Culture and Tourism, Jindo County Office and the Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Costumes were analyzed by categorising them as type, shape and color. Traditional Ganggangsullae costumes are two types: traditional hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. Traditional hanbok design dates back to the late Joseon dynasty and saenghwal hanbok design to the middle Joseon Dynasty. They reflects confucianism, a male-dominated society, totemism, shamanism and Yin-Yang and the five elements theory in agrarian society and community life. Daily dance Ganggangsullae has various types of costumes such as the fusion hanbok, saenghwal hanbok, cheering uniform and casual wear. They show modern color schemes. There is not any magical meaning from Yin-Yang and the five elements theory. Instead, they have individualism, liberty, equality and welfare in information-oriented society. So its costumes are easy and comfortable clothes. But traditional hanbok, fusion hanbok and saenghwal hanbok are inspired from Korean identiry. Even though traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae have different costumes and ideology, they have a common denominator 'playfulness.' It will function as a key for Ganggangsullae to be performed continuously over the period.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.22
no.4
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pp.63-78
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2020
Korean Chinese, immigrants to China, have developed their own traditional costume culture. This paper aims to analyze the traditional costume culture of the Korean Chinese and to provide data for posterity. The research methods are literature research, survey research, and analysis research. The results are as follows: According to the changes over generations, the top of women's Hanbok has changed in length as has the jeogori (jacket), the git (collar), and the gooreum (breast-tie). The width of the git, dong-jeong (thin white cloth-covered paper collar of Hanbok), the sleeve, and gooreum have also changed. The git and the barae (the curve part of the sleeve) have changed from straight patterns to curves. The skirt had changed in wrinkles arrangement, length, and silhouette. The men's Hanbok jeogori and sleeves were lengthened; the pants became wider and were lengthened, and the collar also became curved. The vest has not changed and the du-ru-ma-gi (coat) that once disappeared is being worn again; the bae-ja (vest) and magoja (over-jacket) are worn frequently in modern times. The garments mainly used natural fiber until the development of synthetic fibers, but the treand has been the use of luxurious natural fibers in modern times. The initial color pattern was achromatic, but that changed with the appearance of synthetic fibers, and nowadays it is mainly the garmetnt can display a variety of colors. In addition, hairstyles and shoes have been eveolved from traditional to modern styles.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.11
no.3
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pp.125-134
/
2009
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.
The function of the school uniform is to represent the role of a student and also to restrict the scope of action for the student. Many students wear school uniforms for the most of their daily life. So the school uniform is very important for students during the school days. The purpose of this study was to suggest the fundamental information for the development of the school uniform design based on actual wearing conditions and preferred designs. Photos of school uniforms of 61 girls' high schools in Seoul were analyzed. Surveys of actual wearing conditions and preferred designs were investigated. The major conclusions of the study were as the following: 1. Most of the high school girls wore the uniform jackets that had tailored collars, were single breasted, slightly fitted, and that have a medium length between the waistline and hipline. Many students wore skirts with various pleats and knee length. Many school uniforms were navy blue and grey. 2. Many students bought ready-to-wear school uniforms from agencies with their parents. When they bought the school uniforms, they tried it on and confirmed the sizes on their own. However, since they didn't know the size systems, and they had to repair the size and design of the school uniforms. Students felt uncomfortable with how the shoulders and sleeves fit. 3. Uniform Jackets with tailored collars, single breasted, slightly fitted, and a short waistline length were preferred. Pleats skirts with knee length or upper-knee length were preferred. Navy blue and grey colors, and elastic fabrics were preferred. 4. When comparing the actual wearing conditions and preferred designs of school uniforms, there were a few differences in styles, but overall, students preferred shorter lengths of jackets and skirts. It is considered to reflect the fashion trends and the students' pursuit for beauty.
This study analyzes the wearing and purchasing conditions of outdoor jackets by senior men who are over 50s, and examines product sizes of outdoor jackets in the market. A total of 134 questionnaires and sizing systems (or product size) of 10 outdoor brands were used as analytical data. The results were: a high number of senior men enjoyed hiking as an outdoor activity, with most of them following this activity1-3 times per month and as a preferred personal activity for over 5 years. Most needed outdoor wear suitable for these daily life activities. Outdoor wear satisfaction tends to decrease as people age. The major reason for the dissatisfaction with outdoor wear was price. Senior men aged 50s and 60s emphasize design and color when purchasing outdoor wear; however, men in their 70s considered price a priority. Senior men preferred outdoor brands based on a comfortable fit. An investigation on 10 outdoor brands indicated that they had not designated a specific target customer. A comparison of the product size of outdoor jackets with a similar silhouette indicated some deviations among sizes; however, the age of customers was not considered. The human body tends to shrink in stature and increase in girth as a person ages; consequently, we need to reflect body shape changes and senior's size in outdoor wear.
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