• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.538-548
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• 2000

A study analyzes the eclectic trend shown in Andy Warhol look to explain the pluralistic aspect which is expressed in the late 20th century's fashion. Eclecticism is a trial to dismantle the barriers between pure art and popular art, high culture and low culture. This pursues harmonious accommodation and coexistence of all areas without being confined in the conventional lofty taste or high art. This thesis studies the characteristic aspects of the eclectic trend by classifying this trend into sell culture, mass media and fashion around the Andy Warhol look. The sexual eclectic trend in Warhol look is bisexual one shown in clubland and the world of modeling and supplies fashion with abundant expression and ambiguity. Warhol established cultural eclecticism by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion and escaped from the fixed idea on materials and design. Also he generalized and democratized specialty or nobility conventional paintings had possessed through introducing repetition and mediocrity and fully utilized every kind of mass media, Hollywood movie stars and daily necessaries in producing works. Andy Warhol who asserted‘Business Art’that was the mixed form of artistry and commercialism had creative and futuristic taste and proposed the direction to develop current fashion and art where the concept of economy is importantly brought into relief.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.657-669
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.37-51
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• 2000

In this study, New Orientalism represened in modern fashion is defined a new idea that harmonized with factors of eclecticism, traditionalism, naturalism, and futurism and these characteristics are examined. First, as these features, it is the phenomenon of eclecticism presented beyond regions and sex. Second, it is the phenomenon of traditionalism newly expressed traditional images in a modern sense by using and changing of a oriental dress image of the of the past. Third, it is the phenomenon of naturalism revealed an unalloyed recurrent instinct about nature and a desire for yearning. Fourth, it is the phenomenon of futurism which is come out the factor of oriental images whithin a minimal and cyber environment. This paper might be the foundation for Korean Orientalism which could be not a just pastiche but a cultural commodity and s main fashion current with a cultural identity especially in the year of 2000, "New Arts Year", declared by Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.303-316
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• 2006

새로운 미의식의 창조를 위해 이질적이고 대립적인 요소를 융합 혼합하는 절충주의는 다양성, 다원화에 기초하므로서 개성화, 다양화를 추구하는 현대인의 요구에 부합되어 각광 받고 있다. 본 연구는 현대직물디자인에 표현된 절충주의 양식을 파악하기 위하여 현대예술분야를 통해 그 특성을 규명하고 이를 직물디자인에 적용시켜 새로운 경향이 제시한 미적 효과와 조형적 특성을 고찰하므로서 현대직물디자인의 변화양상을 이해하고자 하였다. 연구결과 현대 직물디자인에 나타난 경향은 다음의 3개로 구별되는데, 1) 문화적 절충에 의한 고급문화와 저급문화의 복합, 2) 시대적 절충에 의한 다양한 시대적 감각의 융합, 3) 지역적 절충에 의한 지역적 특성의 혼합으로 나타나며, 이러한 경향으로 본 직물디자인의 특징은 1) 직물디자인에 대한 시각의 전환을 가져왔고, 2) 유희적 표현을 중시하였으며 3) 다문화적 표현이 강조되고 있다. 이와 같이 직물디자인의 절충주의적 경향은 다변화되고 있는 현대 사회를 대변해주고 미래 직물디자인을 위한 하나의 가능성을 제시하여 주므로서 이에 대한 연구는 지속적으로 필요하다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.227-234
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate how the Post-modernism social cultural pattern has been reflected in collar of costume. In the classes social, collar in costume is the expressive medium of ideology and status symbol such as Passium of ancian Ezypt and Byzantin collar which is examined religion belif. The conspicuous function of collar can be examed as the ruff collar, which is the expressive medium of self-confidence, but the whisk collar and the flat collar means decline the authorized conspicous function. In the cultural pattern of Post-modernism, collar in costume presents the coexistence of double-sides value such as androgyny, dividinism and eclecticism. For example, the tailored collar or shirt collar in women's suit with delicate materials express the self-confidence, energy and intelligence, and the round collar or the draped collar in men's suit with rough material express the sensibility and liberty. In the deconstructivity through breaking the basis form of the collar, callar can be transformed in to sleeve, cape or hat on occasion. In conclusion, the function of collar changes by the cultural pattern and expresses the spirit.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2000

The purpose of study is explaining the Historicism as a result of compromise, historical eclecticism, between historical things and current cultural background instead of regarding it as an imitation from the past. It means that external factors in history help internal esthetic value surface out as costume. Fashion s history is more than the classified thing according to the appearance with the changes of the times. Intrinsic cultural elements should be added in creating new fashion. One of the different features between Modernism and Post-modernism. When coming to the period of Post-modernism, it connected with the historical factors to make something new by fragmenting, magnifying, or minimizing them. This is calles 'Historicism'in the world of art. It revived the past, not the past itself, in new ways : quotation, reuse, metaphor, and mixture. To represent the image, parody, pastiche, or bricolage was usually used. In post-modernism fashion, parody is a technique for imitating the past or the preceding forms with artists'own critical points of view. This technique gives us shock or surprise by using satirical, ironical or paradoxical expressions. pastiche shares the same part with parody in imitating particular or unique style, and it can be renamed empty parody, because it doesn't have any hidden motivation or satirical impulse. bricolage is a mixture of quotations from other works. It contains fragments that deepen the image. Like the techniques uttered above, the revival of history through parody, pastiche or bricolage is historical eclecticism and it is included in Historicism.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

In the turn of the century, fashion designers have not just drawn upon one or two subcultural styles but have extracted elements from many subcultures to use in a single collection. In true postmodern style these are freely combined with historical, cross-cultural and futuristic influences to create new fashions. The process could be explained by bubble-up phenomenon, retroism. pastiche and pursuit of pleasure. In the course of illustrating subcultural styles transformed into mainstream fashion, the case of Punk was studied as a turning point of modernist and postmodern period which have been introduced by high fashion designers since the birth in 1976. The following cases have continued to appear entering upon the third millennium and the aesthetic value of those can be summarized as ambiguity, eclecticism, and deconstruction. In other words. the energy and authenticity of Punk has been considered to be desirable in high fashion, however designers focus on clothing and adornment rather than ideology and lifestyle. The aesthetic property of subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness. which allows a room to be diversified and subdivided.

• 복식
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• 제42권
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• pp.137-162
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis was twofold. First it explains the emergence of street styles and their inner meanings from its origin subculture group practices. Recent developments in cultural studies which approach cultural practices in a holistic way by incorporating socio-economic background offers us the concept of 'hegemonic relation' it explains why subcultural practices and street style in particular has weakened from 19080s as well as why in the post-subculture period we observe the 'superma-rketization' of styles and plethora of eclecticism instead of original ones. Street styles as a magical expression or resolution of socio-economic frustrations are anticipated to weaken significantly if not totally disappear in the post-modern era although it has become the original texts of high fashion.

• 영미문화
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.53-71
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• 2014

This paper is about some aspects of the late-modern representation of antiquity in Western countries. The timeframe is mostly the decades since the 1980s, but some works are also mentioned from previous phases. Some information is given on the late-modern historical novel, characterized by mixture of genres and intertextual references to historical events and contemporary varieties of discourse. Eclecticism would seem to be a characteristic feature, and it mainly consists of a mixture of real events and imagination, cohabitation of ancient settings and modernized characters, and interaction between high and low culture. Commercialization often accompanies novels on antiquity in the $21^{st}$ century. And ideologies such as romanness, germanism and barbarianism are employed by some authors to refer to contemporary realities. A number of films and novels are mentioned. More specific analysis focuses on Valerio Manfredi's The Last Legion and the film based on the book; Simon Scarrow's Gladiator: The Fight for Freedom; and Robert Harris's Pompeii.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.835-848
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• 2014

This study investigated the relationship between inner characteristics manifested through the characteristics of artistic styles and formativeness manifested through external expressions of architectural styles in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period. The method applied to this study is as follows. First, a historical document research was conducted centering on academic theses, related books, and academic databases; in addition, a case study identified the aesthetic characteristics of women's clothes. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, the following is the analysis of the relationship between the artistic mode and architectural formativeness in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period that represent a turning point in artistic paradigms. Second, the inner characteristics and eclecticism of the artistic mode literally appear in the formativeness of architectural style in the early Medieval Period, and the eclecticism in the architectural style appears to be expressed through a combination with new styles based on the application of the retro mode such as the eclectic adoption of cultural styles of various regions based on the tradition and technology of ancient Rome. Third, the trend of the aesthetic characteristics commonly appear in the modern style of expression related to the aesthetic characteristics of western women's clothes in the early Medieval Period; in addition, the early Renaissance Period was analyzed as decorativeness and respectively manipulability.