• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.289-304
• /
• 1995

Time series of the relative sea levels at the selected tide-gauge stations in the North Pacific and historical aerial photographs in the Hawaiian Islands are analyzed. Long-term rising trend of sea level ranges from +1 to +5 mm/yr at most of the stations, which is primarily due to global warming and tectonic motion of the plates. The annual and interannual fluctuations of sea level result from the thermal expansion/contraction of sea-surface layer due to the annual change of the solar radiation and possibly from a coupled ocean-atmosphere phenomenon associated with an ENSO event, respectively. Sea-level changes in three different time-scales (linear trend. annual oscillation, and interannual fluctuation) and their quantitative contribution to the shoreline changes as a result of long-term cross-shore sediment transport arc hypothesized.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.61-71
• /
• 1996

The objective of this paper is to analyze the characteristics of the nearshore bars using the long-term measured data of cross-shore sediment transport for Duck beach, North Calolina, USA. The effect of outer bars are directly included in the analysis to understand the characteristics of the sequential nearshore bars. Many parameters related to the nearshore bars are presented by the simple relationship. It is found that the nearshore inner bars generally move offshore as time goes. After the outer bars are formed at some position, however, the inner bars start to move landward with time and outer bars become inner bar again. Also it is shown that the seasonal characteristics of inner bars are distinctly different according as the outer bar exists or not.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.95-102
• /
• 1996

The skewness of near-bottom velocity distribution caused by the nonlinear interaction of the second order waves proposed by Wells (1967) has been re-evaluated. The direction of cross-shore sediment transport was related to the sign of the third moment (skewness) of velocity distribution, and a new concept of neutral depth which can explain the recovery of beach equilibrium after a disturbance is suggested. The seasonal change of beach profile due to the change of wave condition (storm-swell profile) is interpreted in terms of nonlinear interaction of the waves rather than the conventional wave steepness. The beach is eroded (storm profile) when the nonlinear interaction of the waves is strong (storm wave), whereas the beach is accreted (swell profile) when the nonlinear interaction is weak (swell wave).

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.3 no.3
• /
• pp.216-224
• /
• 2011

In This study develops a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of wave driven coastal currents with accounting the effects of the wave-current interaction and the surface rollers. In the wave model, the current effects on wave breaking and energy dissipation are taken into account as well as the wave diffraction effect. The surface roller associated with wave breaking was modeled based on a modification of the equations by Dally and Brown (1995) and Larson and Kraus (2002). Furthermore, the quasi-three dimensional model, which based on Navier-Stokes equations, was modified in association with the surface roller effect, and solved using frictional step method. The model was validated by data sets obtained during experiments on the Large Scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) basin and the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS). Then, a model test against detached breakwater was carried out to investigate the performance of the model around coastal structures. Finally, the model was applied to Akasaki port to verify the hydrodynamics around coastal structures. Good agreements between computations and measurements were obtained with regard to the cross-shore variation in waves and currents in nearshore and surf zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.101-109
• /
• 2008

Several numerical models for predicting beach profile changes have been developed by many researchers. Many of the earlier models are known to simulate the erosional profiles with the formation of offshore bar. However, most of the models don't have proper mechanism to incorporate the recovery process of the eroded profiles after a storm and can not simulate the beach accretion with acceptable accuracy. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we propose a new numerical model which has new features to simulate the accretional phase of beach recovery process after storm including such as redistribution of suspended sand particles near the breaking point. The simulation results of the proposed model were compared with LWT (Large Wave Tank) experiments performed at CRIEPI (Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry in Japan) and CE (the Us Army Corps of Engineers) and it was shown to have performed better compared to SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.228-237
• /
• 2015

Field observations were conducted to collect hydrodynamic and morphological data, which are needed to account for mechanisms of bathymetry changes caused by physical forcings, in Haeundae beach. In order to quantitatively describe characteristics of wave transformations and current patterns in space in winter and summer, in-situ sensors for measuring waves and current profiles were installed at three locations in the cross-shore direction and also three locations in the along-shore direction. As for the results of wave measurements, waves with main direction from the east dominate in winter while waves are incident from the S and the ESE in summer. Analysis of current data reveals that currents over the study domain are considerably influenced by a pattern of tidal motions, thereby, mainly oscillating in the direction of tidal currents, i.e., east-west directions, in both winter and summer. Currents tend to be influenced by local bathymetry in the shallow water region, with the direction changed along the depth contours and the magnitude reduced as they approach the shoreline. The results analysed from the hydrodynamic data through this study can be further combined with the morphological and bathymetry data, leading to the quantification of seasonal sediment transport rates and sand budget changes.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.69-84
• /
• 2020

Natural shoreline repeats its re-treatment and advance in response to the endlessly varying sea-conditions, and once severely eroded under stormy weather conditions, natural beaches are gradually recovered via a boundary layer streaming when swells are prevailing after storms cease. Our understanding of the boundary layer streaming over surf-zone often falls short despite its great engineering value, and here it should be noted that the most sediments available along the shore are supplied over the surf-zone. In this rationale, numerical simulation was implemented to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of boundary layer streaming over the surf zone in this study. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of Spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES (Large Eddy Simulation), Dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used, and the effects of turbulence closure such as Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES and k-ε on the numerically simulated flow field were also investigated. Numerical results show that due to the intrinsic limits of k-ε turbulence model, numerically simulated flow velocity near the bottom based on k-ε model and wall function are over-predicted than the one using Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES. It is also shown that flow velocities near the bottom are faster than the one above the bottom which are relatively free from the presence of the bottom, complying the typical boundary layer streaming by Longuet-Higgins (1957), the spatial scope where boundary layer streaming are occurring is extended well into the surf zone as incoming waves are getting longer. These tendencies are plausible considering that it is the bottom friction that triggers a boundary layer streaming, and longer waves start to feel the bottom much faster than shorter waves.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2013

Padori beach is one of the representative composite mixed beach in Korea and shows divert geomorphic landscape change. It belongs to the Taean National Park. The purpose of this study is to clarify movement mechanism of sediments from sediment distribution of Padori beach associated with morphology. In addition, it is to explain morphological landscape change under different wave and tide condition in the composite mixed beach consisting of a dissipative low tide terrace and a reflective beach face with a high tide range of 5 to 7m. The results of this study are: First, the mean grain size of sediments becomes smaller from the south of the beach, where there is a wide wave-cut platform, to the north because gravels are supplied from the wave-cut platform as well as sea-cliff in the south of the beach. A sedimentation pattern of the sandy gravel on the beach face and gravel on the berm, and gradation phenomena of grain size on cross-shore and alongshore direction in the beach can be explained with a pattern of sediment movement, overpassing, in the composite mixed beach. Second, micro-topography on beach face and berm were changed depending on effects of wave height and tide. As a result, in low-wave energy environments, a berm is developed in large size, and beach cusps are formed on the upper beach face, while in high-wave energy environments, a berm is built up in relatively small size, and mixture of sediments occur on the upper beach face.