• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2012

The cross-shore sediment transport in a coastal region causes the important changes in beach morphological properties. The accurate estimation of the cross-shore sediment transport is important for the designing of the marine structures such as seawalls, jetties, breakwaters etc, and the preventing coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation. In this study, the experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial beach slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials having medium diameters of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. The experimental results obtained from this study compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.277-286
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• 2013

Cross-shore sediment transport is very important factor in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study cross-shore sediment movement was investigated using a physical model and various offshore bar geometric parameters were determined by the resultant erosion profile. The experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial base slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical of sediment transport rate and considerable characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and bar parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials with the medium diameter of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. Non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.141-146
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• 2003

Time seres of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1) The relationship between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.68-79
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• 2023

Even though submerged breakwater reduces incident wave energy, it redistributes the coastal area's wave-induced current, sediment transport, and morphological change. This study examines the coastal hydrodynamics and the morphological response of a wave-dominated beach with submerged breakwaters installed through field observation and quasi-3D numerical modeling. The pre-and post-storm bathymetry, water level, and offshore wave under storm forcing were collected in Bongpo Beach on the East coast of Korea and used to analyze the coastal hydrodynamic response. Four vertically equidistant layers were used in the numerical simulation, and the wave-induced current was examined using quasi-3D numerical modeling. The shore normal incident wave (east-northeast) generated strong cross-shore and longshore currents toward the hinterland of the submerged breakwater. However, the oblique incident wave (east-southeast) induced the southeastward longshore current and the sedimentation in the northeast area of the beach. The results suggested that the incident wave direction is a significant factor in determining the current and sediment transport patterns in the presence of the submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the quasi-3D numerical modeling is more appropriate for estimating the wave transformation, current, and sediment transport pattern in the coastal area with the submerged breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Proceedings of the KGS Conference
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• 2003.11a
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• pp.29-33
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• 2003

Sandy shoreface에서 외해로 가면서 퇴적물의 입경이 작아지는 퇴적물의 분급이 이루어지고 있다는 것은 잘 알려진 사실이다 (e.g., Inman 1953; Niedoroda et al.,1985; Bailard and Bowen 1981; Guillen and Hoekstra, 1996). 이러한 cross-shore의 퇴적물 입경 분급에 중요한 mechanism은 표층에서 상대적으로 큰 입자들이 bedload로 해안으로 이동하는 반면, 표층에서 높이 부유한 부유 퇴적물이 외해로 운반되는 양 방향 퇴적물 이동이라고 할 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.455-463
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• 2003

Time series of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between suspended sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1)The relationship between suspended sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s where the nodal point of the first mode and the anti-nodal point of the second mode are located at the measurement point, respectively) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that suspended sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.493-500
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• 2019

In this study, sensitivity analysis of sediment transport scaling factors in Delft3D-Morphology was performed to examine the effect those parameters on simulation results of cross-shore profile changes. For numerical experiments, one-year wave time series data which were observed in 2018 on the Maengbang coast in Gangwon prefecture were applied as external force. Bathymetric data observed in January and October of the same year were used as initial bathymetric data and annual bathymetric change data, respectively. The simulation performance of the model was evaluated based on the Brier Skill Score index for each part by dividing an arbitrary cross section within the calculation domain into the onshore and offshore parts. As a result, it was found thet the f_BED variable has a slight effect on the simulation results. The f_BEDW and f_SUSW variables show good simulation performance in onshore part when the value less than 0.5 is applied and vice versa. Among the experimental conditions, the optimal combinations of variables are f_BED = 1.0, f_BEDW = 1.0, f_SUSW = 0.1 for the onshore region and f_BED = 1.0, f_BEDW = 1.0, f_SUSW = 0.5 for the offshore region. However, since these combinations were derived based on the observation data on Maengbang beach in 2018, users should be careful when applying those results to other areas.