• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.294-309
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• 2015

This study aims to clarify the aesthetic values between emotion of human and expression of technology in contemporary fashion as it analyzes formative characteristics of related cases in fashion based on principles of 3D Printing technology and the viewpoint of mechanic aesthetics. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, 3D Printing fashion is not only expressed diverse variations by its principles of formative methods, materials and properties, but also changes of silhouette by applying system of designers. Second, general characteristics of 3D Printing fashion is represented by various applications in SLS system, and it can be specifically explained application to a portion of clothing, decorative roles of clothing, complicated pattern making through crossing fabrics using 3D scanner and displaying a certain object changing fashion styles, and so forth. Third, the formative characteristics of 3D Printing fashion from the perspective of mechanic aesthetics is as follows. It can be analyzed as the integration of metaphysical values through compared symbolization of natural feature and technical evolution, partial dynamics and interactive velocity-based, formative combinations for abstract expression using architectural components, cosmos images and substantialized structures through images of organic space interacted human shapes. As the mention above, 3D Printing technology can creative a diverse area of fashion, and express images of new technological fashion through various works with continuous development of techniques.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to men's fashion by analyzing changes related to excessive and decorative expressions of latest men's wear design in the viewpoint of Maximalism, and using the results to develop a new fashion style. Results of the study are as follows: The characteristics of Maximalism in men's wear collection in the last 5 years can be classified as 'Fusion Maximalism, 'Decorative Maximalism', 'Exaggerative Maximalism', 'Humorous Maximalism', and 'Duplicative Maximalism'. The characteristics of each type of Maximalism can be summarized as follows: First, Fusion Maximalism creates new men's fashion style by fusing designs from different cultures in clothing items as well as dismantling gender boundaries in clothing design, and by having designs which transcends time and space. Second, Decorative Maximalism expresses ambiguous decadence by implementing feminine decoration that applies handicraft technique, as well as exaggeratedly using details and trimmings of contrasting images, and applying women's clothing items. Third, Exaggerative Maximalism represents extreme avant-garde that changes the idea of fashion design by changing the styling or the exaggerated silhouette. Fourth, Humorous Maximalism expresses not only the creation of new men's fashion look, but also expresses humanism with exaggerative enjoyment and pleasant ideas. Fifth, Duplicative Maximalism expresses creative design by implementing vivid images of different period and culture, and reproducing successful images of the past into modern fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.61-78
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• 2021

Gianni Versace is one of the most influential Italian designers between the 1980s and 1990s and a representative person to add sexiness and splendour to Italian fashion. This study aimed to analyze the design identity that resulted in the successful handover to Donatella Versace and to review how effectively differentiated and unique heritage elements of Versace were transferred and operated. Literature reviews were performed to find Gianni Versace's design identity and archive. The scope of this study was Donatella's collection from 2018 to 2020. In particular, Signature, the most remarkable design identity of luxury brands with a visual identity that includes the mark, logo and symbol and design elements such as the item, colour, materials, details, etc., were the special focus. In this study, the elements of the visual identity of the signature were classified with the logo, icon, silhouette, materials, patterns, colours, and changes in details that were applied with the uniqueness and philosophy of the differentiated brand. Donatella Versace empathized with Versace's heritage as the brand heritage recalling Versace's honour in the 1990s and reproduced his honour again by reinterpretation of Versace's design images. Donatella is considered an excellent creative director who leads the brand by keeping the heritage and applying the trends of the times. This study as a case study of Versace has the meaning that Versace has maintained the brand identity starting from Gianni Versace as the first generation and successful takeover after the change of directors upon recreation to meet the modern times.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.249-259
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• 2022

To analyze recent changes in designer-specific garment composition, detail, and design elements of jackets, we classified jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S to 2019 F/W according to their designers and examined their characteristics. Our analysis of the jackets by Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Valentino shows that the hour-glass silhouette was most common in Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino jackets; Chanel used more straight silhouettes compared to other designers. Most jackets, regardless of the designer, had midlength waist-to-bottom, tight sleeves fitted to the body, natural shoulder shape, and solid color. Moreover, woven fabric was the most common material. Jackets with no collar were the most common for Armani, tailored collars for Dior and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and standing collars for Chanel and Valentino. For the closure method, Armani used hook-and-eye, Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Valentino used button closures, and Dior used snap closures the most. New design attempts by designers are bringing details and design elements together. In an era characterized by an abundance of designs and frequent replacement of each brand's creative designers, it is important to create and maintain a brand's unique design identity and philosophy that can meet consumers' elevated standards, which tend to be biased towards new and stimulating designs due to the development of the IT industry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.124-146
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• 2023

This study analyzes the characteristics of each element of neo-deconstructivist fashion design and examines fashion expression methods and techniques. This study combines theoretical research and case analysis to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of neo-deconstructivist fashion and the expressive characteristics of neo-deconstructivist fashion. Through analysis of previous research, the aesthetic characteristics of neo-deconstructivism were derived as inclusiveness, playfulness, communication, and intertextuality. Inclusivity in fashion refers to including various people, body types, aesthetics, and cultural backgrounds in the scope of design, and does not limit the scope of clothing design based on individual differences such as body type or gender. Playfulness is a neo-deconstructive fashion brand that combines exaggerated makeup, vibrant colors, intriguing designs, and imaginative fashion shows to spread upbeat and playful ideas. Communication in neo-deconstructivist fashion demonstrates communication through the use of creative themes and items that reflect consumers' needs through design and the consumer's fashion presentation method. Through the mutual quotation of aspects like traits, status, T.P.O., and materials that can reveal opposing texts, intertextuality emerged as a tendency to break up binary oppositions or break away from genres. The expressive qualities of neo-deconstructivist fashion design were examined and applied to the creation of innovative fashion design through examination of the case's silhouette, color, and material. Six sets of women's clothing were designed and produced. The results of this study can be used as basic data for the development of neo-deconstructivist fashion design, and are expected to provide a wide range of inspiration for fashion design ideas.