• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.122-134
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• 2022

This study is conducted on hardening leather with improved firmness and stability of shape, based on research on types and thickness of leather. The purpose of this study is to test the physical properties of the leather for molding to prepare the foundation for leather molding based on the test results using four methods by thickness of Vegetable and Split. The tests were conducted using a total of five leather types, including three types of vegetable leathers and two types of split, by thickness. Based on the testing method for leathers in KS M 6882, the tests were performed at 27℃ with relative humidity of 65±20%. The samples were prepared with cowhide, size 9cm× 2cm. The measurement parameters are length and width. thickness, volume, mass, density. Regarding the hardening treatment method, changes in appearance and major physical characteristics of leather were reviewed by soaking in hot water, dry heating, hammering, waxing, and olive oil coating. The study results are as follows. In planar works, it is judged that hardening work using a hammer is more suitable for stiffness or density in order to prevent easy breakage with adult muscle density, rather than boiling water or baking. In conclusion, there is no curling, soot, or breaking phenomenon, and the densest curing method is 50℃ for 20 sec of V2 and 75℃ for 60 sec of V2 in boiling water. The combination of paraffin treatment improve waterproof and quality.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.74-81
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• 2008

The writing brush, ink stick, paper, and ink stone were the four precious things of the studying and recording in oriental world until even nowaday. The oriental paper was comparatively well evaluated in many papers and reviews, but it is difficult to find some scientific reports or reviews about the ink stick. In this paper, the scientific aspect of ink sticks of oriental maine three country(Korea, China, Japan) were evaluated by the physical, chemical and microscopic analysis. The result could summarized as fellows; 1. The Korean lampblack ink stick contains more carbon and less nitrogen and the Chinese ink sticks contain less carbon and more oxygen. 2. The Korean lampblack and cowhide glue contain relatively higher amount of sulphur. 3. The particle size distribution of carbon in the ink stick was not change after grinding in the ink stone. 4. The particle size of carbon and the pore size in the charcoal ink sticks of three country were larger than those of the lampblack ink sticks. 5. The ink solution of the charcoal ink sticks shows high roundness on Hanji while the ink solution of the lampblack ink sticks is spread readily to Hanji surface. 6. The change of whiteness in printing of the ink sticks is notable in thermal treatment.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.77-86
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• 2017

This study aims to explore the unethical issues in leather processing and to develop designs of leather products based on the concept of reincarnation by ecosystem circulation. The method used in this research include the review of previous literature and the design process for development fashion accessories using waste leather. The design process comprises collecting waste leather, classifying waste leather by type, color, and size, and developing leather products according to line carnation method. For this research, the material was limited to waste cowhide leather collected from leather workshops and leather product factories. The leather pieces were divided into typical and atypical types and developed leather accessories based on the leather piece's color and size. A twill brooch, four-string bracelet, a brooch using the four-stringed leather strap and mini handbag designs were developed using regular type waste leather. An armband of abstract patterns and a cellphone case with graffiti pattern using irregular type over-splitting waste leather. The environmental issues in design are observed as part of understanding the significance of this study. Development of waste leather accessory can expand the usability of the waste leather as well as increase the product value by creating limited-line editions. By understanding the role and benefits of sustainable upcycling, this research suggests an efficient way to use waste materials in fashion to coexist with the natural environment.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제27권
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• pp.57-66
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 6·25전쟁 당시 유엔군으로 활동하였던 참전용사의 서류가방을 보존처리하고 주요 구성 재질인 가죽에 대해 동물적 특성을 분석하였다. 분석은 관련 연구 성과를 낸 국립고궁박물관 연구진과 함께하였으며 분석 결과를 바탕으로 보존처리 계획을 수립하였다. 가죽의 표면 특징을 분석한 결과, 많은 모공이 관찰되고 패턴이 일정하지 않으며 크기가 작고 밀도가 높아 송아지 가죽으로 추정하였다. 가방은 가죽과 함께 목재로 구성되어 있다. 오랜 기간 열화로 인해 목재와 가죽이 틀어져 있어 구조적 안정을 위한 보존처리가 필요하였다. 우선 내·외부에 고착된 오염물을 제거하였다. 가죽이 경화되어 딱딱해진 상태였기 때문에 연화를 위한 가습 과정을 거치고 아교를 사용하여 접합이 필요한 부분들을 보수하였다. 이번 보존처리 및 가죽 분석 결과가 향후 가죽 유물 및 전쟁·군사 유물 연구를 위한 기초조사에 활용될 것을 기대한다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.227-241
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• 2015

공주 송산리 6호분에서 분리한 미생물의 배양조건에 따른 생화학적 특성을 확인하고 천연물 유효성분인 anethole과 eugenol의 항진균력을 평가하여 고분 또는 벽화에 대한 적용 가능성을 확인하였다. 송산리 6호분 내부 공기중 및 벽체에서 포집된 26종의 곰팡이는 자낭균류 15종, 접합균류 2종, 담자균류 1종으로 동정되었다. 분리된 곰팡이의 전분과 젤라틴에 대한 분해도 평가를 실시한 결과 SY-18, SY-23, SY-25 등에서 전분에 대한 분해능이 높게 나타났으며, SY-18, SY-21, SY-23 등에서 높은 젤라틴 분해능을 보였다. 각 기질의 분해능이 우수한 균주 3종을 액체배양하여 생화학적 특성을 확인하였다. 천연물 유효성분인 anethole과 eugenol의 항진균력 평가 결과, anethole과 eugenol의 혼합액(1:2)에서 곰팡이의 생장 억제력이 가장 크게 나타났다. 국내외에 동굴 또는 고분 벽화에 발생 가능한 곰팡이에 대해 강력한 항진균력을 보이는 천연물 유효성분을 이용하여 미생물의 발생을 억제할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.33-42
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• 2016

근 현대문화재는 다양한 재질의 재료가 공존하는 특성을 갖고 있다. 문화재를 보존하고 관리함에 있어 근 현대문화재에 대한 재질분석이 미비한 실정이었다. 본 연구에서는 대한민국역사박물관 소장 인력거를 대상으로 각 재질별로 분석을 실시하였다. 금속, 목재, 도료, 섬유 및 가죽에 대해서 P-XRF, 수종분석, 도막층분석, FT-IR, 현미경 관찰을 통해 분석을 실시하였다. 분석결과 금속은 대부분 구리(Cu), 아연(Zn) 합금이 확인되었고 부분적으로 철(Fe)과 니켈(Ni)이 측정되었다. 특히 니켈(Ni) 합금은 근대시기에 와서 사용된 금속으로 인력거에 사용된 금속이 근 현대에 제작된 것으로 유추할 수 있었다. 목재는 참나무속, 대나무류, 편백나무류가 식별되었다. 편백나무류는 일본 자생종으로 목부재의 일부분이 일본에서 제작되었을 것이라고 판단된다. 도막층은 인력거 외부에 5회 이상 도료가 칠해진 것으로 확인되었고 내부에서는 3회 정도 도료가 칠해진 것으로 나타났다. 이는 내부에서 더 간단한 도색작업이 이루어졌을 것으로 판단된다. 섬유 및 가죽 분석결과 면(Cotton)과 양모(Wool)가 사용되었고 가죽은 우피(牛皮)를 이용한 것으로 사료된다. 본 연구 결과를 토대로 근 현대문화재 재질에 대한 기초 자료 및 진정성 있는 보존 연구에 활용될 것이라 기대한다.