• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.122-134
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• 2022

This study is conducted on hardening leather with improved firmness and stability of shape, based on research on types and thickness of leather. The purpose of this study is to test the physical properties of the leather for molding to prepare the foundation for leather molding based on the test results using four methods by thickness of Vegetable and Split. The tests were conducted using a total of five leather types, including three types of vegetable leathers and two types of split, by thickness. Based on the testing method for leathers in KS M 6882, the tests were performed at 27℃ with relative humidity of 65±20%. The samples were prepared with cowhide, size 9cm× 2cm. The measurement parameters are length and width. thickness, volume, mass, density. Regarding the hardening treatment method, changes in appearance and major physical characteristics of leather were reviewed by soaking in hot water, dry heating, hammering, waxing, and olive oil coating. The study results are as follows. In planar works, it is judged that hardening work using a hammer is more suitable for stiffness or density in order to prevent easy breakage with adult muscle density, rather than boiling water or baking. In conclusion, there is no curling, soot, or breaking phenomenon, and the densest curing method is 50℃ for 20 sec of V2 and 75℃ for 60 sec of V2 in boiling water. The combination of paraffin treatment improve waterproof and quality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.74-81
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• 2008

The writing brush, ink stick, paper, and ink stone were the four precious things of the studying and recording in oriental world until even nowaday. The oriental paper was comparatively well evaluated in many papers and reviews, but it is difficult to find some scientific reports or reviews about the ink stick. In this paper, the scientific aspect of ink sticks of oriental maine three country(Korea, China, Japan) were evaluated by the physical, chemical and microscopic analysis. The result could summarized as fellows; 1. The Korean lampblack ink stick contains more carbon and less nitrogen and the Chinese ink sticks contain less carbon and more oxygen. 2. The Korean lampblack and cowhide glue contain relatively higher amount of sulphur. 3. The particle size distribution of carbon in the ink stick was not change after grinding in the ink stone. 4. The particle size of carbon and the pore size in the charcoal ink sticks of three country were larger than those of the lampblack ink sticks. 5. The ink solution of the charcoal ink sticks shows high roundness on Hanji while the ink solution of the lampblack ink sticks is spread readily to Hanji surface. 6. The change of whiteness in printing of the ink sticks is notable in thermal treatment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.77-86
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• 2017

This study aims to explore the unethical issues in leather processing and to develop designs of leather products based on the concept of reincarnation by ecosystem circulation. The method used in this research include the review of previous literature and the design process for development fashion accessories using waste leather. The design process comprises collecting waste leather, classifying waste leather by type, color, and size, and developing leather products according to line carnation method. For this research, the material was limited to waste cowhide leather collected from leather workshops and leather product factories. The leather pieces were divided into typical and atypical types and developed leather accessories based on the leather piece's color and size. A twill brooch, four-string bracelet, a brooch using the four-stringed leather strap and mini handbag designs were developed using regular type waste leather. An armband of abstract patterns and a cellphone case with graffiti pattern using irregular type over-splitting waste leather. The environmental issues in design are observed as part of understanding the significance of this study. Development of waste leather accessory can expand the usability of the waste leather as well as increase the product value by creating limited-line editions. By understanding the role and benefits of sustainable upcycling, this research suggests an efficient way to use waste materials in fashion to coexist with the natural environment.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.27
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• pp.57-66
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• 2022

This study conducted conservation treatment of a briefcase used by a soldier who fought in the Korean War as a member of the United Nations Forces. The zooid characteristics of its main material, leather, were analyzed in collaboration with the researchers at the National Palace Museum of Korea who have conducted relevant research. A plan for conservation treatment was established based on the results of this analysis. The briefcase was made of leather with a wooden frame. The many densely arranged tiny pores in different patterns on the leather's surface suggests calf leather. The wooden frame and leather had suffered deformation over long years of deterioration and thus required conservation treatment to enhance their structural stability. The conservation treatment began with the removal of contaminants from the exterior and interior of the briefcase. The stiffened leather was softened through humidification, and torn or separated areas were restored using cowhide glue. It is expected that the results of this conservation treatment and analysis of the leather material will serve as useful sources for basic research on leather items as well as wartime and military items.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.227-241
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• 2015

Fungi were isolated from mural painting in tomb no.6 at songsan-ri, Gong-ju. Antifungal susceptibility of essential oils extracted from natural medicine was tested and it confirmed applicability for mural painting in tombs. 26 species of fungi collected from air-borne and wall surfaces were identified to 15 species of Ascomycetes, 2 species of Zygomycetes, 1 of Basidiomycetes. Wheat starch and gelatin degradability were evaluated as isolated fungi. SY-18, SY-23, SY-25 showed high degradability of wheat starch. SY-18, SY-21, SY-23 were decomposed into gelatin. Biochemical characteristics of decomposing fungi to wheat starch glue and cowhide glue were analyzed by using ${\alpha}-amylase$ and gelatinase activity. An Antifungal test was conducted in Anethole and Eugenol. Anethole and Eugenol mixture(1:2) showed high antifungal susceptibility. Natural adhesives help microbial growth and can cause structural damage in mural painting. The expectation of this study is the possibility to control microbial growth in wall painting using natural essential oils. It can be used as a data for conservation method to control microbial damages.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.33-42
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• 2016

Modern cultural heritage were made with various materials. But there are no certain analysis for modern cultural heritage. Analysis on rickshaw from National Museum of Korean Contemporary History were carried out using P-XRF, species identification, paint film analysis, FT-IR and microscope observation. As a result Copper and Zinc were measured in metal parts. Nickel alloys were first used in the modern era for rickshaw. Wooden parts, Oak(Quercus spp.), bamboo(Phyllostachys spp.) and Hinoki cypress(Chamaecyparis spp.) were identified. Outer films were painted by 5 layers and inner films were painted by 3 layers. More simple painting process were performed on the inner part. Cotton and wool were identified by FT-IR. Also, cowhide were identified. Authenticity conservation and restoration could be carried out with the results.