• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.990-995
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• 2011

This study analyzed the effects of the knit stitch type, fiber composition, and yarn thickness on the mechanical properties of knitted fabric. The results were as follows: The course density was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. On the other hand, the wale density was the highest in the case of the float stitch. The thickness was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses considered in this study. The burst strength of wool knit fabric was higher than that of A/W knit fabric. The stiffness was the lowest in the case of the plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The pilling properties were excellent for all knit stitches, fiber composition, and yarn thicknesses as pilling degree : 5. The air permeability decreased in the following order : rib > plain > float stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The heat retention rate decreased in the following order : rib > float > plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.272-281
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• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2000

Physical properties of matt georgette knitted fabrics, which has been developed recently, were investigated to provide fundamental information for the textile industry. Dimensional characteristics were examined with three different loop lengths, where the plain knitted fabrics were knitted with cotton yam and polyester yarn. The matt georgette plain knitted stitch was fully relaxed after wet relaxation treatment at $130^{\circ}C$ for 30minutes and subsequent tumble dry treatment at $70^{\circ}C$ for 90minutes. As the treatment temperature of wet relaxation became higher and the loop length did shorter, all of stitch density, course density and wale density were increased with 31 of $K_1$ 8.3 of $K_2$ and 3.8 of $K_3$. Also, The higher value of $K_4$ could be obtain with shorter loop length. When the loop length became longer, the $K_4$ value was varied in a wide range with the treatment of wet relaxation and subsequent tumble dry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.334-345
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• 2011

A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.329-334
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to develop the design, pattern and size system of brief as a measurement garment in order to obtain more precise silhouettes and sizes of the body in 3D measurements. The results of this research are as follows: First, nylon/lycra materials which elasticity is equivalent to 18%(wale) and 27%(course), were selected as a material for briefs to minimize possible error in measurement and deformation of body shape caused by looseness or tightness in its measured parts. And T-back style design was selected, of which briefs neither deform human body nor cause overlapping or excessive tightness when was put on the measurement garment over it. Second, different darts for men and women were adopted into the pattern in consideration for the shape of hip. Third, the waist band of briefs was located between the waistline and abdominal girth line so that it didn't interfere with measurement, and using a wide band of 40mm minimized the tightness of the human body. In addition, the stitch lines and sewing procedure were simplified to minimize the deformation of body shape resulting from inseams and stitch lines. Finally, for the size of briefs, 6 cm intervals were set on the basis of the waist girth and 8 kinds for men and 6 kinds for women were selected in descending order of appearance rate by the interval sections. English T meaning T-back design and numbers representing the waist girth were marked in parallel for the name of size.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.1-12
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• 1982

This study was to investigate the changes of shape of the lower limb surface, the rate of the measurement of expansion and contraction and correlation coefficient between variables caused by hip joint and knee joint movements. The results of the investigation are as follows; 1. According to the development figure of shell when the leg was raised $45^{\circ}$forward($M_{2}$), total length of F.L shortened while B.L lengthened. This result is contarary to $M_{3}$raising the leg $15^{\circ}$ backward. In both $M_{2}$, $M_{3}$movements, the rate of expansion and contraction to the course direction was insignificant. When hip joint was bent $15^{\circ}$ with knee joint $120^{\circ}$bent ($M_{4}$) and hip joint was bent $30^{\circ}$ with knee joint $90^{\circ}$ bent($M_{5}$), upper section of back hip expanded while the front hip section contracted slightly. In the Movement of sitting on the chair($M_{6}$), abdomen, front hip section and upper thight section contracted to the wale direction remarkably while the back hip section expanded conspicuously. 2. According to the rate of expansion and contraction of skin (surface) by the somatometry. In $M_{2}$, C.F.L. upper and middle thight girth contracted and B.L, C.L, L.L expanded. This fact is contarary to M3. In M4, M5, C.F.L showed remarkable contraction and C.B.L expanded remarkably. In $M_{6}$, C.B.L contracted most of all the items measured and knee girth, F.L, L.L, C.B.L, hip girth expanded conspicuously. 3. According to the correlation coefficient between variables. In various movements, the correlation among girth items commonly showed a high or middle grade, the correlation among length items also commonly showed a low grade and that girth and length items showed a very low grade commonly. Waist girth, hip grith, F.L, B.L, L.L items showed that there were significant correlation.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.791-802
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• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).