• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.77-86
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to characterize physical and tensile properties according to a knitting method as basic materials for solving the difficulties that occur due to the fact that the crosswise elongation is most different among knit stitch at the time of measuring elongation of knitwear. The sample used for this study was wool $100\%$ and was knitted into two, that is, controlled loop length controlled to properties of structure and fixed loop length by using Shimaseiki SES-124S 12G computer automatic flat knitting machine with DSCS device. Also, the density of rib fabric was 12gauge and its quantity was a total of seven of $0{\times}0,\;1{\times}1,\;2{\times}1,\;2{\times}2,\;3{\times}3,\;4{\times}4$ and including plain fabric, and knitted 2 pieces of sample of 300 wale${\times}400$ course. In conclusion, rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches.

• 대한인간공학회지
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.37-57
• /
• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the elastic effect of deformation and restriction in wearing a support type panty stocking (PS). The study investigated deformation rate in all surface area, deformation rate in local area, length deformation rate, changes in slip and feeling of restriction under the standard laboratory condition. Two healthy adult females in twenties wore four types of PS. The result were as follows : The deformation rate in all surface area was 117 .approx. 132% in wearing support type PS, 157% in wearing mono type PS, due to the intensities of restriction. The deformation rate in local area was in order, course > oblique > wale direction. The largest deformation rate was observed in hip girth. Between the deformation rates in all surface and local areas was a high correlation acknowledged, especially the course direction showed a high correlation. Support type PSs showed more deformation and changes of slip than wool and mono type PS. Especially, changes of slip at the knee appeared greatly. The responses of restriction evaluated from a paired comparison method were in order, JS 2 > KS 4 > KS 9 > KS 5 > KS 1 > KM 3.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제25권4호
• /
• pp.448-457
• /
• 2017

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of interlock fabrics knitted with three types of fibers (i.e., cotton, wool, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers (i.e., 10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system. We experimented with four properties and thicknesses of twelve specimens of interlining bonded knitted fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings. The results showed that the tensile property changed values (i.e., LT increased, and WT and RT decreased) according to the denier of interlinings; however, the change was slight. On the other hand, the bending property increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the course. Among shearing properties, the value of G increased as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the weft; however, 2HG decreased. Additionally, changes in the compression property varied according to the fibers and the denier of the interlinings. The thickness of the knitted fabrics increased or decreased slightly by bonding the interlining. based on these results, we conclude that the 3D virtual system users need to reflect these numerical changes of interlock fabrics by bonding interlinings when they perform fitting tasks on the screen to accurately express the to accurately express the manufacturing conditions of the real garment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제18권3호
• /
• pp.23-30
• /
• 2006

The bending properties, wrinkle resistance, and fabric retention behaviors of cotton knitted fabrics in the wale and course directions were studied for their dependence upon resin finishing, knit structure, and washing cycles. Stiffness, wrinkle recovery angles, and dimensional stability were investigated before and after resin finishing and laundering. It has been found that any change in the physical properties of the knitted fabrics with respect to knit structure and fabric directions are related to accompanying modifications to the state of the fiber properties. The decrease of fabric shrinkage rates and wrinkle recovery properties from increasing laundering cycles is related with resin incorporated on the fiber surface. This study shows that resin finishing on knitted fabrics can be performed only to improve fabric retention properties with reduced wrinkle recovery properties.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제19권2호
• /
• pp.143-149
• /
• 1981

Consumer consider the purpose for which they plan to use clothes when they purchase it, and the socks in textile products is evaluated in the same way. serviceability is judged by the extent to which the socks will be useful for its intended purpose. It should retain its original shape and size, good air permeability, good absorbency, good abrasion resistance, high fastness etc. Owing to importance of serviceability in socks, in this paper, these end-use requirement characteristics were tested. The results obtained were as follows: 1. Blend ratios were different between the indicated fiber contents on labels and the testing ones. 2. Air permeability was higher in the samples which contain less stitch density, and hydroscopicity was higher in those which contain natural fibers such as cotton and wool. 3. Shrinkage depended on the blend ratios of cotton and wool, and elastic recovery was better in the course direction than in the wale direction. 4. Pilling was conspicuous in the synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, and fastness of laundering and perspiration was higher in the fading grade than in the staining grade.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제5권2호
• /
• pp.49-53
• /
• 1981

This study was carried out to investigate the drapability of polyester double jersey skirt Drapability is an important aesthetic properties of fabric on clothing construction, In this thesis weight, shearing, bending and non-isotropic characteristics of fabric were regarded as important factors of drapability, Especially for drapability of skirt, I investigated hem effect on various length of hem and skirt, The results were as follows, 1. The less the weight of fabric was, the greater drapability appeared. On fabrics, large pliability and modulus of shear have good drapability, 2. On clothing cutting, non-isotropic property affected on drapability of clothes remark-ably. Drapability order of clothes was greatest in bias direction, next in wale, course direction, 3. The shorter the skirt length and closer at hem line were the larger the hem effect influence upon the drapability of skirt was.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
• /
• 제9권4호
• /
• pp.337-341
• /
• 2006

The tensile properties of Poly(trimethylene terephthalate, PTT) $1{\times}1Rib$ knitted fabrics were experimentally studies, and the specimens has $1{\times}1$ rib stitched structure which are weft knitted fabrics with various lengths of loop. The $1{\times}1$ rib weft knitted fabric showed larger tensile linearity, tensile energy and tensile resilience in the direction of courses. The tensile properties increased with increasing the loop density in all directions, and perfectly increased with the course directions than the wale directions.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제2권4호
• /
• pp.93-101
• /
• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제36권7호
• /
• pp.703-713
• /
• 2012

This study analyzed the physical properties and flame retardancy of Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fabrics in order to satisfy two aspects of eco-friendliness and functionality. The flame retardant (FR) treatment of complex knit fabrics was applied by a pad-dry-cure method for additional functionality. Tensile strength, extension, bursting strength, LOI, and flame retardancy were measured by the KS (Korean Standard) K manual. The hand value knit fabrics were measured by KES-FB system. Subsequently, tensile strength and extension of wale and tensile strength of course increased in tandem with the Tencel FR yarn content. Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fabrics were suitable for summer-weight and for baby clothes through the KES-FB system measurements. The bursting strength of Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fabrics decreased as the contents of the Tencel FR increased; in addition, LOI increased as the contents of Tencel FR increased. This was due to the Tencel FR flame resistance function; however, the tensile strength decreased. The optimum fiber content of Tencel FR/cotton content was 1:1. The optimum conditions of flame retardant treatment were a treatment temperature $130^{\circ}C$ and the concentration of finishing agent and assistance binder (AR4260) was 35% and 1%, respectively.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제37권2호
• /
• pp.151-158
• /
• 2013

This study presents basic knitted fabric data on the use of ply yarn with rayon yarn and eco-friendly/high-valued Hanji yarn. Physical properties (gauge, thickness, burst strength, air permeability, stiffness, Qmax, dimensional stability and surface image) of Hanji 100%, rayon 100% and Hanji/rayon 50:50 knitted fabrics are investigated. The results are as follows. Course direction of gauge decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > Hanji 100%. In addition wale direction of gauge decrease in the following order: Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > rayon 50/50. Thickness and air permeability decrease in the following order: Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > rayon 100%. Burst strength decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50. Stiffness and Qmax decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > Hanji 100%. Laundry for dimensional stability is knitted fabric with Hanji/rayon 50/50 than rayon 100% and Hanji 100% improved using neutral detergent and stable at $20^{\circ}C$. From surface image observation, the cracks of Hanji 100% and fibrils of rayon 100% decrease when using knitted fabric with Hanji/rayon 50/50.