• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.87-95
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• 2006

This is a study regarding the development of Cultural Products with Applied Koguryo Wadang Patterns. The objective of this study is in developing unique Cultural Products which combine traditional Korean images with modern feel by utilizing Koguryo Wadang patterns. The among Korean traditional patterns which implicit the sense of beauty and modeling, chose and investigated the Wadang patterns of the Koguryo. And from it, studied about the originality and characteristics of the Koguryo Wadang patterns. In this characteristics of the Wadang pattern, the representative lotus design pattern was based and reorganized to fine the probability of the modern expression using traditional patterns. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing, printing) the fabrics(cotton:Kwang-mok) by theme. Approximately 16 pieces of Cultural Products that can be used in daily life were created using Koguryo Wadang patterns, including Traffic or credit card cases, Name card cases, Pouches, CD cases, Cushions, Bags, Purses, Vest, Muffler. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.248-254
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• 2005

In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.297-309
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• 2019

This study investigated EEG signal, subjective fragrance sensation, and the preference of differently colored cotton knit treated with Citrus unshiu oil containing microcapsules as well as examined their relationships for providing regression models on subjective fragrance preference. Color variables combining 2-level hue (Yellow and Green) and 3-level tone (strong, pale, and grayish) were applied by dyeing prior to microcapsule treatment. We invited 28 female college students aged 20's for EEG signal experiments and subjective fragrance sensations with fragrant knit by rubbing. EEG signals at $mid-{\alpha}$, $fast-{\alpha}$, and $low-{\beta}$ showed significant differences depending on color; Green had more relative power values and grayish tone did more at $low-{\beta}$. Even though subjective sensation showed no significant differences depending on color, some of them such as Fresh, Comfort, and Natural showed significant correlations with EEG signal at $low-{\beta}$, which means that the fragrance sensations of Citrus unshiu fragrance are concerned with attention and alertness for Koreans. Fragrance preference was regressed significantly using some EEG signals and subjective sensation. The results could be utilized to value up fragrant textiles by Citrus unshiu oil.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.33-48
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• 2022

This study was performed to compare the color emotion and preference of Koreans and Chinese for a two-color combination by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon and indigo and to establish prediction models of color preference. Nine specimens prepared by combining two different colored fabrics (persimmon and indigo) were evaluated for color emotion and preference by Korean and Chinese groups of female college students. Koreans described most specimens as natural and traditional, whereas the Chinese described them as more pleasant and elegant as well as warmer and lighter than Koreans did. The contrast tone was the most preferred combination by both groups, whereas it was perceived as more modern and less warm by Koreans. Relationships between physical color variables and color emotions were quantified; these relationships were applied to establish a prediction model of color preference with tone combination types for each group. These results could help in making the design of fashion textiles more preference- and emotion-oriented for Korean and Chinese consumers.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.151-158
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• 2023

In this study, we investigated the durability properties of the recycled leather using shaving scrap with antioxidant. Recycled leather sheets were manufactured by mixing shaving scrap and NB latex as a binder. HALS(Hindered Amine Light Stabilizer) and UVA(UV absorbers) were used as antioxidant. Mechanical properties such as hardness, tensile strength, elongation, tear strength and abrasion resistance were measured. Light aging resistance was evaluated using UV lamp and the degree of discoloration of the recycled leather sheets using a gray scale. In addition, to evaluate heat aging and UV aging, the degree of discoloration of the recycled leather sheets over time was measured using colorimeter. Washing fastness was evaluated on the degree of dyeing of recycled leather sheets for six type of multi-fiber woven fabrics (Acetate, Cotton, Nylon-66, Polyester, Acryl, Wool). To determine whether hazardous substances were detected in recycled leather sheets, the contents of arylamine and Cr 6⁺ were evaluated. As a result, when used in combination with antioxidant, the heat aging and light aging of recycled leather were improved and hazardous substance were not detected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.486-493
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• 2008

Safflower red colorants extracted by two solvents including the traditional ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution was used for dyeing cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, silk, wool, and nylon fabrics. The effects of extraction solvents on the reflectance, K/S value, and color properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated. Wash/dry cleaning and light colorfastness were evaluated. Reflectance curves of cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, and silk fabrics dyed with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were similar, showing the maximum absorption at 520nm, to that of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by ash solution. The reflectance curves of wool and nylon fabrics were different, showing the maximum absorption at 400nm. K/S values of dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution with the exception of nylon. $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, and $C^{*}$ of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution except for $L^{*}$ of nylon and $b^{*}$ of viscose rayon. Color difference(${{\Delta}E}^*$) of the dyed fabrics between ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution increased in the order named as cotton, silk, ramie, viscose rayon, wool, and nylon. Regardless of extraction solvents, safflower red colorants produced RP color on cotton, ramie, and nylon, R color on viscose rayon and silk, and YR color on wool. Wash/dry cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics was high above 3/4 rating but light fastness was very poor. It is considered that the use of $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution instead of the traditional ash solution would be more effective in terms of color reproducibility and extraction process.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.