• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.14-20
• /
• 2010

Squid ink was purified to melanin powder by repeated treatments with aqueous sodium hydroxide and acetic acid solutions. The exhaustion dyeing conditions of melanin to wool fabrics were investigated in relation with pH, melanin concentration, dyeing temperature and time. The melanin was dyeable to cotton and wool fabrics but higher dyeability of the wool was observed. A K/S of 7 was obtained on the optimally dyed wool fabrics with 5 % owf melanin under pH 4 at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. Color fastness to both washing and rubbing was excellent and color fastness to light was also very good probably due to the polymeric nature of the extracted sepia melanin.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.32 no.4
• /
• pp.255-264
• /
• 2020

With the development of synthetic dyes, excellent dyeing properties and massive production became possible. On the other hand, natural dyeing technology has gradually disappeared. However, the international environmental and human safety requirements of the apparel and textile industry are increasing, and there is a growing interest in safer and more environmentally friendly products. Accordingly, the public's interest in natural dyeing is increasing. To meet these demands, it is first necessary to clarify the stages of production and distribution of natural dyes. It is necessary to evaluate whether the product is a natural dye product and study the suitability of the natural dye product through qualitative and quantitative assessment of the indicator components of the natural dye. Typical of three natural dyes did qualitative and quantitative analysis by HPLC-DAD and HPLC-MS. Products dyed using natural dye three products were analyzed, and the presence or absence of detection of each indicator components was confirmed to confirm whether the product was dyed using natural dyes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.35-50
• /
• 2001

The object of this study is to improve the adsorption of dye for gromwell. Dye was from gromwell first soaked in methylol and added the distilled water, using same amount of methylol. The fabrics used for the experiments were cotton, silk and acrylics(KS0905). These were used untreated and pretreated with chitosan, premordanted with Cu, Al and Fe. Dyeing conditions were controlled. 1. Deep color effect was shown silk. 2. Chitosan treated cotton and acrylics showed deep color effect and huge color difference before and after the experiment. 3. In chitosan treated acrylics, deep color effect were shown. It proved the good adsorption of gromwel under metal mordanting. 4. Cu showed high adsorption of gromwell and deep color effect. 5. Chitosan treated acrylics can be substitute for wool.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.25-33
• /
• 2004

Melange yams were prepared by varing the ratio of raw cotton dyed with Indigo, Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, respectively. The antibacterial activity and deodorization on melange yarns were evaluated for bacteria reduction rate and deodorization rate. The bacterial reduction rate on melange yarns was explored with Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae. The melange yarns on the ratio of raw cotton dyed with Sappan wood and Indigo showed high Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate of 99% and 90%, regardless of Al-mordanting treatment, but those with Gadenia hardly showed bacteria reduction rate. The melange yarn showed high Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate of 99% for Al-mordanting treatment with Sappan wood. The others were poor. The deodorization of 81% and 98∼99% obtained with melange raw sliver and melange sliver dyed with Indigo, Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, but dyeing did not significantly affect deodorization rate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.1
• /
• pp.180-199
• /
• 2021

This study investigated natural aroma fragrance on the fashion image of Galchon, a traditional natural dyeing textile made with immature persimmon from the Jeju area, Korea. Nine fabric pairs consisting of differently colored cotton and silk Galchon with various tones and fabric types were used for subjective evaluation. Thirty five female college students evaluated the specimens using a 7-point scale questionnaire for fashion image-related adjectives. A specimen with three different presentation types that included fabric without fragrance (FO), fabric with citrus fragrance, and fabric with chamaecyparis (FCP) were randomly provided to a subject. As a result, color variables of Galchon were found to be the primary influence on fashion images for both cotton and silk Galchon that showed interaction effects with presentation types. The citrus fragrance increased the feeling of 'Active' while chamaecyparis tended to contribute to a stronger perception of 'Elegance' for cotton Galchon. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for fashion images of Galchon that employed color variables and presentation types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.24 no.3
• /
• pp.63-71
• /
• 2022

This paper aims to compare and verify the antibacterial effects of cotton fabrics naturally dyed with extracts of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica Nakai, Caesalpinia sappan, Saururus chinensis, and Artemisia princeps against antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria. After natural dyeing of the test fabric, Al, Cu, Fe mordants were used. The color fastness against washing, rubbing, and perspiration of the cotton fabrics dyed with the 4 types of extracts were mostly excellent. However, the color fastness against light showed poor results for all four types. As for the antibacterial test method, MRSA (ATCC 33591) was applied to the cotton fabrics dyed with the four kinds of extracts and cultured for 24 hours. After that, the bacteria that proliferated on the fabrics were collected and spread on a solid medium. The bacteria were measured to find out the bacteriostatic reduction rate for the antibiotic-resistant strains. As a result of the analysis, all four extracts showed a high bacteriostatic reduction rate of more than 99% when the copper mordant was used. Even with the lack of a mordant, the bacteriostatic reduction rate was high, at 99.9% for Caesalpinia sappan and 94.6% for Saururus chinensis.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.20-27
• /
• 2006

Lyocell is a not only environmentally-friendly but also very advantageous fiber. When Lyocell is soaked in water, its wet tenacity does not decrease and elongation and moisture regain of it are better than cotton. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation. The fibrills of lyocell were generated during wet process such as scouring and dyeing deteriorates the dyeing color depth and the appearance of fabric. The purpose of this study was to decrease the fibrillation tendency of lyocell fabric using crosslinking agent, epichlorohydrine(ECH). The effects of NaOH scouring and ECH crosslinking were observed. The different types of ECH addition methods to lyocell and the various concentrations of ECH in crosslinking reaction onto dyeing characteristic and fibriallation were investigated. Weight loss and whiteness index of crosslinked lyocell by ECH were examined. K/S values of ECH treated lyocell fabrics dyed with reactive dye were measured and SEM images of untreated and treated lyocells were observed extensively to define the fibrillation tendency. The results were as follows ; 1) ECH treatment showed the effect of weight loss and scouring because ECH crosslinking reaction was conducted in alkaline condition. 2) The increase in ECH concentration from 5 to 30% does not affected K/S value changes. 3) ECH crosslinking can effectively prevent the fibrillation tendency of lyocell.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.136-148
• /
• 2007

African marigold is a common plant easily available in many flower beds. It has been reported as a practical and prospective resource of dyes since the dyes can be extracted from their bodies as well as petals. In this research, cotton and ramie fabrics which are made from natural cellulose were dyed using the extract of the African Marigold which is a variety of marigold. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants. Dyeability was evaluated by examining and measuring surface color, K/S value, and the changes in the maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. For the dyeing with marigold extract, the color tone did not differ by pre-mordanting and non-mordanting. Reaction with post-mordanting was excellent, which was colored in various yellow series. The best dyeability was achieved in dye solution of pH 6.5-7.0 which is not conditioned. The largest K/S value and color difference were obtained in tin mordanting. The dye uptake was greatly increased in chitosan pre-treated mordanting compared with the post-mordanting without chitosan pre-treatment. Due to its high heat resistance, African Marigold extract is easy for dye extraction and dyeing, and its dyeability is excellent for natural cellulose fibers. Also, colorfastness was proved to be practically usable.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.149-163
• /
• 2011

Hanjisa(Korean paper yarn), a new material made from the traditional Korean paper, has been developed through local R&D efforts, reflecting the current trend highly valuing environmental friendly. This new material is considered suitable for the 21C lifestyle and culture pursuing improved quality of human life and the environment. Therefore, this study aims to widely make known the originality and functions of the environmentally friendly Korean paper yarn, as well as to increase its commercial value. Furthermore, a new category of apparel design is presented by studying painting dyeing based on transformational tuck techniques and wax resist dyeing with formative features of repeated lines and rhythms of shells in order to implement three-dimensional and decorative artistic expressions. The texture of the Korean cotton paper yarn was particularly suitable to employ tuck and dyeing techniques Which express formative features of shell. Also, the material was useful for expressing the three-dimensional feelings with repeated curves and cross sections of shells. Moreover, paraffin resist dyeing and stitch techniques were used in order to avoid monotony and the images of shells visually materialized. Through the results stated above, this study could explore how to overcome obstacles to globalization of the Korean modern apparel such as its uniqueness, limit of materials or absense of internationality by applying modern design to the Korean paper fabrics. In the future, it is expected that more manufactures could produce and supply the new materials so as to make widely known the originality of the Korean paper fabrics and develop the material into a popular organic product fitting the modern lifestyle.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.317-328
• /
• 2012

In this study, printing was introduced to the common dip-dyeing method of persimmon juice dyeing so as to develop two different colored persimmon juice dyed fabrics with printings of 'jorangmal' patterns (a national monument) instead of producing a plain textile. Following are the results of a comparative study between the persimmon dyed fabric and undyed fabric, both with printings, in terms of its properties, and hand values. Cotton and rayon were chosen as samples and were compared separately. Firstly, the samples showed differences in terms of clarity and visual sensation depending on the presence of persimmon dye, even if the same pattern and color was used. Secondly, the air permeability of two samples improved after persimmon dyeing even though their thickness increased, and their moisture regain increased as well in all humidity conditions. Thirdly, protectiveness against UV increased in dyed samples, and sweat, sunlight, and compound colorfastness improved in printed dye-fabrics compared to plain dyed ones. Therefore, printing proved to be effective in preventing discoloration. Fourthly, tensile linearity and resilience, bending rigidity, compressive linearity and resilience, and shearing stiffness increased more in the dyed samples compared to undyed ones. However, shearing recovery decreased in both dyed fabrics. Fifthly, the result of its hand value showed that Koshi value increased in all samples than undyed ones, whereas Fukurami, Numeri, and Softosa values decreased. Incorporating printing in persimmon dyeing process could expect creative outcomes not only in today's diverse fashion but in areas of arts or crafts as well.