• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.99-113
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• 2005

Recently, problems related to the natural dyeing have been addressed. Severer problems have been posed by the elution at metallic ions and dyestuff tram dyed fabrics. In order to prevent the elution tram the dyed fabrics, it is needed to improve the fastness. Especially, it is the most important measure to improve the fastness to perspiration in terms at human body safety. In this study, we employed chitosan pretreatment method bet ore the dyeing process, anticipating that the pretreatment might improve the fastness. We used Al, Sn, and Cu as mordants and investigated the fastness to light and perspiration of the chitosan treated and dyed fabric specimens. By the chitosan pretreatment, the fastness to perspiration improved, while the fastness to light did not.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.61-69
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to identify the utility value with material of natural dyeing and to examine the dyeability and antibiosis of fabrics dyed with Solanum nigrum extract. The results obtained are as follows. First, the color tone of dyed fabrics was tinged with from yellow series to green series, in the chrominance the fabric dyed with Fe mordant was showed the highest value. Second, colorfastness to dyeing showed difference as to mordants, but colorfastness to dyeing except for sunlight colorfastness showed the good colorfastness result on the whole. Third, in the test results of antibiosis, the dyed both cotton and silk fabrics showed the very excellent antibiosis effect for bacteria but showed the insignificant effect for fungus.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.46-53
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• 1994

Polymer cationic agent was prepared by the initial polymerisation of epichlorohydrin followed by amination with diethylamine. Cotton fibre treated with the polymer (6~8% o.w.f.) is highly cationic and exhibit increased substantivity for reactive dyes under neutral to weakly acid conditions. The modified substrate could be dyed with reactive dyes without salt or a little salt from dye bath. The increased concentration of cationic agents resulted in an increase the colour yield. Futhermore, treated cotton has an electropositive surface charge. Adsorption of Reactive dye can be attributed to both van der waals force and electrostatic attraction.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.14-19
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• 2005

Study on the use of enzymes for textile wet processing has been very active. The exploratory research conducted herein is related to the bioscouring process for cotton fabric. The optimum concentration of alkaline pectinase(BioPrep) was in the range of 0.05～0.2 g/l, the proper treatment time was 30～60 minutes, the appropriate treatment temperature was $60^{\circ}C$ for both the batch method and the padding method. The simultaneous desizing/bioscouring by padding method did not give water absorbency as good as the bioscouring after desizing. Color of fabrics which were bioscoured and dyed with direct dyes and a reactive dye was just a little darker than that of NaOH scoured one. K/S and Lab values of the bioscoured fabrics, regardless of the degree of water absorbency, were quite similar to each other.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability and color fastness of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extract of Arrowroot leaf princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordant treatment, component of fabric and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness, color difference by C.C.M system and K/S test. The summerized finding reulted from experiment and investigation are suggested as follows : In the C.C.M and K/S test on mordanting method and kind of fabric, that of silk and cotton was the most effective in the pre mordant treatment. In the C.C.M and K/S analysis on 5 mordants, that of silk and cotton was significantly improved when mordants was treatmented. Especially, that of Fe mordanting treatment was higher than Al, Cu, Cr and none. In color fastness on mordants, laundering, perspiration and abrasion fastness showed 4-5 grade but light fastness showed 1-3 grade.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.1-8
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• 1995

Polymer cationic agent was prepared by the initial polymerization of epichlorohydrin followed by amination with diethyl-amine. Cotton fibre treated with the polymer (6∼8% o.w.f.) is highly cationic and exhibit increased substantivity for anionic dyes. The modified substrate could be dyed with direct dyes without salt or a little salt from dye bath. The increased concentration of cationic agents resulted in an increase the colour yield. Futhermore, treated cotton has an electropositive surface charge. Adsorption of direct dye can be attributed to both van der waals force and electrostatic attraction.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.1051-1059
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• 1997

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing: on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics dyed with the extract from Turmeric. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absorption band of Turmeric extract were 400 nm respectively and the wavelengths were 440 nm after the mordants were added in the color extract. The bands of Turmeric extract shifted to long wave length side as pH increased. In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased as pH increased. 2. The main color substance in extract from Turmeric were expected to be curcumin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20 g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5∼10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by premordanting and synmordanting had influenced upon K/S valse. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Turmeric extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perspiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.233-238
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• 2006

This research confirmed the chemical structure of Curcumine and Carthamin pigments whose pigments were separated and refined from the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious which were natural dye using FT-IR, HPLC and so on. The cotton and the silk fabrics were dyed using a main pigment and then this research obtained the conclusion as it follows. The curcumine, the main pigment of Curcuma longa extracted from the mixed solvent of acetic anhydride and methanol ($CH_3OH$), had the maximum absorption wavelength at 504.0 nm and was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The Carthamin, the main pigment of Carthamus Tinctorious extracted from the mixed solvent of dichloromethane and methanol, had the maximum absorption wavelength at 420.0nm. This pigment was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The dyeing property of the main pigment about the silk fabrics was superior to that about the cotton in both the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious, and the dyeing property of Carthamus Tinctorious was superior to that of Curcuma longa.