• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.143-154
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• 2017

This study was conducted to develop fabrics using non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes made from curcuma and coffee extract. The natural dyes were applied to non-printed cotton fabrics using the dip dyeing method, and the pattern was hand-printed onto the dyed fabrics to make dyed printed-fabrics. The four types of developed fabric samples were compared to analyze the effects of the dyeing materials and printing on the hygienic properties of curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics. The findings were as follows. First, air permeability of both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics was greatly affected by the presence of patterns, although the type of dye did not seem to have an effect. Printing greatly reduced air permeability of the fabric, and coffee-dyed fabric showed greater reduction of dyeing method than curcuma-dyed fabric. Moisture regain also tended to decrease with printing, but the change was much smaller compared to air permeability. Second, increased UV blockage was observed in curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics with patterns compared to non-printed fabrics, showing that printing enhanced UV blocking. Third, deodorization rate tended to increase sharply for both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics until 30 minutes and gradually increased thereafter to yield 30% for curcuma and 50% for coffee at 120 minutes, demonstrating higher deodorization of coffee dye. Coffee-dyed fabric showed an antibacterial rate about twice as high as that of curcuma-dyed fabric, and the observed data suggest that curcuma-dyed fabric had an insignificant level of antibiosis. Fourth, printing significantly enhanced wash, sunlight, and compound colorfastness of the two types of dyed fabrics. The effect of printing was most dramatic on sunlight and compound colorfastness, which are aspects in which natural dyed fabrics perform poorly in general. Eventually, the development and application of biologically- and environmentally-friendly fabrics with natural dyes correspond with increased interest towards the wellness and healthy attitudes of modern society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.260-270
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• 2006

In this research, the curly dock was used in the process of dyeing for fabrics of the inner wear & the patient wear. Since the curly dock has a pharmacological effect on dermatosis, this study focused on the variety of color and functions of the inner wear fabrics & patient wear fabrics to make the best use of the pharmacological effect of curly dock. With regards to giving a variety of colors and functions in the inner wear, patient wear fabrics, the curly dock dye was used in each treatment conditions on the cotton & silk fabrics. After dyeing, the dyeability, color change, light fastness, washing fastness, perspiration fastness, antibiosis, far infrared emissivity and emission power were evaluated. The evaluation results are as follows; The dyeablity increased from repeated dyeing and, by using the mordant, variety of colors such as skin, mustard, greyish-brown and dark earth colors were conformed to the naked eye. Fe mordant was better than Al on the lightfastness and the washing fastness. The repeated dyeing was found out to have less effect on neither lightfastness nor washing fastness. Both silk and cotton fabrics were graded $3{\sim}4$, since their degree of degradation appeared to be the same in alkali perspiration and acidic perspiration. In the case of silk fabrics mordanted by Al, the rate of declining in both Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 and Klebsiella pneumonia ATCC 4352 were 99.9%. In addition, the antibiosis was enhanced when the mordant was used. The far infrared was 86.6% of emissivity, $3.34{\times}10^2\;W/m^2{\cdot}{\mu}m$ emission power.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.242-248
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• 2008

This study was aimed to find whether the Chelidonium majus which grows naturally in Korean soil and has a various medical ingredient is valuable as a natural dyeing material and to examine the functionality of Chelidonium majus extract. As the test result of dyeing colorfastness, colorfastness to sunlight was 1st grade for all the dyed fabrics. The colorfastness to laundry for discoloration showed from 1st to 4th grade and that for discoloration showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to perspiration, rubbing, and drycleaning showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. In the result of antibiosis test, the dyed cotton fabric showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli evenly when washed one, three, and five times, The dyed silk fabric, when washed one, three, and five times, showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus, but didn't showed the significant bacteria reduction. As the test result of sun protection test, in the case of the cotton fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one-time washing, S.P.F.(Sun Protection Factor) showed 20.4, the interception rate of UV-A showed 94.3%, and that of UV-B showed 95.2%. After five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 14.3, the interception rate of UV-A showed 90.0%, and that of UV-B showed 93.2%. In the case of the silk fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one time washing, S.P.F. showed 30.5, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.9%, and that of UV-B showed 96.9%, after five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 31.0, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.6%, and that of UV-B showed 96.7%.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.540-549
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• 2005

It was the purpose of this study to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment and mordanting on the air-permeability, fastness of the dyestuff to washing, fastness of the dyestuff to light, and antimicrobial effect of cotton and nylon fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were made on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, due to the dye-uptake of the dyestuff component of the Rhusjara ica, the air-permeability values decreased considerably. And due to the action of the mordanting agents, the air-permeability decreased also. The air-permeability decreased more conspicuously in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the chitosan components than in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the cotton fibers or nylon fibers. Nylon dyed fabric exhibited better wash fastness than the cotton dyed fabric. As the number of washing increased, the color of the cotton fabric specimens and nylon fabric specimens, dyed using Rhusjara ica, shifted toward yellowish. The light fastness values were in the range of grade 1${\~}$2, which were very inferior. The light fastness values did not improve according to the mordanting or to the chitosan treatment. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica, the growth rate of the bacteria promoted, on the contrary, compared to that of the control white fabric.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.49-59
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• 2009

The bast fibers of paper mulberry were dyed by using sappan wood, gardenia, and gallnut extracted under various extraction conditions. The surface absorption rates, color, and sunlight fastness of the dyed fibers were compared to those of the dyed cotton and silk. The K/S values of silk showed the highest values, followed by gallnut, gardenia, and sappan wood. The optimum extraction conditions of the dye materials were 20 g/L (input amount of dye materials per liter), $90^{\circ}C$ (extraction temperature), and 30 minutes (extraction time). The values of saturation were observed to increase with the increase of the amount of dye materials, extraction time, and extration temperature. However, no effect were found on the values of hue and lightness. In all samples, the developed colors dyed by sappan wood and gardenia were the series of YR, and Y, respectively. The colors of dyed cotton and bast fibers of paper mulberry by gallnut were the series of Y and the dyed silk showed the series of YR. The values of saturation of the bast fibers of paper mulberry by sappan wood and gardenia showed the highest values of saturation, followed by cotton, and silk. In the case of gallnut, cotton showed the highest values of saturation, followed by the bast fibers of paper mulberry, and silk. The sunlight fastness were not improved in all dyeing conditions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.882-889
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• 2008

국내에서 자라는 지의류의 한 종류인 Parmotrema austrosinence를 채취하여 염액을 제조하고, 제조된 염액을 사용하여 견직물, 나일론직물과 면직물을 염색하였다. Parmotrema austrosinence를 암모니아수에 넣고 발효시켜 얻은 염액을 사용하여 pH를 4, 7, 10으로, 염색온도를 $30^{\circ}C$, 50^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$로 각각 조절한 후 염색을 하였다. 면직물은 견직물과 나일론직물에 비해 염색성이 낮게 나타났다. 면직물의 염색성 향상을 위해 키토산 액으로 처리하고 염색성과 염색견뢰도의 변화를 검토하였다. 염색된 시료들의 염색성은 K/S값, ${\Delta}E$와 Munsell값을 측정하여 평가하였다. 염색된 시료들의 K/S값은 견직물의 경우에는 520nm에서, 나일론직물과 면직물은 480nm에서 최대 흡광파장을 나타냈다. 견직물 염색포의 K/S값은 $4.6{\sim}9.3$으로 $1.0{\sim}2.7$인 나일론직물이나 $0.8{\sim}1.6$인 면직물에 비해 매우 높게 나타나 견직물이 Parmotrema austrosinence 염액에 대해 우수한 염색성을 가짐을 확인하였다. 염색온도가 높아질수록 먼셀 색상값이 red나 yellow red에서 yellow쪽으로 이동하는 색상변화가 나타났다. 견직물의 경우, 염색온도가 $50^{\circ}C$와 $80^{\circ}C$일 때의 염색성이 비슷하였으며, 다른 직물의 경우에는 염색온도 상승에 따라 K/S값도 높아졌다. 따라서 지의류를 사용한 적정 염색온도는 견직물의 경우 $50^{\circ}C$, 다른 직물의 경우 $80^{\circ}C$임을 확인하였다. 염색된 시료의 먼셀 색상은 견직물에서는 R(red) 영역에서, 나일론 직물에서는 YR(yellow red)-R 영역에서, 면직물은 YR 영역으로 나타났다. 면직물과 나일론직물은 중성 또는 산성염액에서 염색이 잘 되었고, 견직물의 경우는 중성 염액에서의 염색성이 가장 우수하였다. 염색성이 낮게 나타난 면직물은 키토산 가공에 의해 염색성과 염색견뢰도를 향상시킬 수 있음을 확인하였다 염색된 시료들의 일광견뢰도와 세탁견뢰도는 대체로 낮게 나타났으나 드라이크리닝 견뢰도는 4-5급 또는 5급으로 모두 우수하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.210-218
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• 2018

The natural dye product market is expanding due to the recent interest in environmentally friendly products. This study examines dyeing using natural Coptidis Rhizoma. Chitosan and Tannin was treated to improve dyeability of Coptidis Rhizoma after finding the proper dyeing condition. In addition, dyeing characteristics were compared according to mordant types along with the mordanting methods for dye fixing and color change. The results indicated that the optimum dyeing condition was to treat the concentration of 5% (o.w.b.) at $80^{\circ}C$ for 90 minutes. By the chitosan and tannin treatments, K/S value of cotton fabrics by 3 times and those of wool fabrics by 2 times increased and color depthing of dyed fabrics was achieved after 2 cycles repetition. To improve dyeability, iron mordanting was most effective; in addition, the K/S Value of pre-mordanting fabrics versus post-mordanting fabrics increased the most. The color of the surface was changed to reddish yellow when Sn, Cu mordanting, and to greenish blue when Fe mordanting. The lightfastness of dyeing fabric with mordanting was weak at 1-2 grades, but the washing fastness was good for 4 grades and the rubbing fastness and sweat fastness were as good as those of the 3-4 grades. As a result, this study could help improve the dyeability of expensive Coptidis Rhizoma.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.817-826
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• 2009

As UV radiation to the earth increased over recent years, many adverse effects of UV radiation have been reported. There are needs to develop UV-protective apparel and accessaries to protect skin from these harmful effects. Cellulose is one of the most frequently worn fiber during summer time. However, celllulose shows very low UV-protective property especially in case of thin and low fabric content. In this study, UV-protective cellulose textiles were developed using chiotsan mordanting and green tea dyeing. The repetition effect of chitosan and green tea treatment were focused. Three different cellulose fibers, cotton, linen, and ramie, were used for this study. All chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed fabrics showed increases in UV-protective property. The color of fabrics tended to darker as the numbers of mordanting process and green tea dyeing increased. UV-protective property did not increase significantly upon the repetition of mordanting and green tea dyeing treatment except ramie fabric. UV protective property was persisted upon washfastness test in all three cellulose fiber types.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.11-20
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• 2011

UV-induced surface copolymerization has been widely applied as a simple, useful and versatile approach to improve the surface properties of textiles. C.I. Reactive Black 5 and acrylic acid (AA) were continuously grafted onto cotton by UV irradiation. The photografting may occur by the copolymerization of AA with the vinylsulfone reactive dye which photochemically converted from the bissulfatoethylsulfone reactive group. The graft yield and color yield were influenced by UV energy, the dye and photoinitiator concentrations, a mole ratio of AA to dye, and pH. The coloration of cotton fabrics having a K/S of 7.0 can be obtained under a UV irradiation energy of 15$J/cm^2$ by the photografting of an aqueous alkaline formulation of 6% dye concentration containing 3% photoinitiator concentration on the weight of monomers, and a 3:1 mole ratio addition of AA to the dye. Furthermore, the photochemically dyed cotton fabrics showed comparable washing (staining) and rubbing fastness to conventional reactive dyeing method except shade change in the wash fastness and light fastness.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2007년도 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.173-174
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• 2007