• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.194-201
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• 2015

Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with Houttuynia cordata extract using aqueous ethanol solution and the dyeing and post-treatment conditions were optimized to impart antimicrobial activity to the fabrics. The dried Houttuynia cordata can be extracted at $80^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours using an aqueous ethanol solution containing 70%(w/w) ethanol. For the highest color yields. Both cotton and silk fabrics can be dyed at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60min with 10g/L of NaCl under pH 4. Silk fabrics can be dyed to higher K/S than cotton fabrics. The color fastness properties of the dyed fabrics were good when either citric acid crosslinking or aluminum alum mordanting was carried out as a post treatment. The dyed silk and cotton fabrics with the post treatments showed excellent antimicrobial activity against both Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.662-670
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to find out the effect of color, tone, perceiver's gender on image perception of natural dyeing of cotton and mosi. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and response scale(The 7-point semantic). The stimuli was 20 fabrics manipulated with two kinds of fabrics(cotton, mosi), five colors(red, yellow, blue, green, purple) and two tone variations. The subjects were 412 adults in Daejeon and Kongju. The results were as follows: The perceived image of the stimulus material consisted of 4 dimensions (attractive, conspicuous, hand, weight) colors, tons, materials as well as perceiver's gender affected on some selected image dimensions color affected on the four image dimensions, tone affected on the conspicuous, hand and weight images, materials affected on the attractive and hand image and perceiver's gender affected on the weight image. Interaction effects existed among colors, tons and materials on the conspicuous image. In conclusion the results support gestalt theory in which the sum of the parts is bigger than the whole and design strategies for the Mosi fabrics should be developed on the basis of persuited design image as well as target consumers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.777-787
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• 2016

This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2006

In this study, physical/chemical characteristics of the fabrics dyed using Japanese pagoda tree which is a yellowish dyestuff was investigated. We tried to estimate the dyeing mechanism among fiber macromolecules, mordants, chitosan, and dyestuffs by measuring the change of air-permeability according to the dyeing process. Also wash fastness and light fastness were measured in order to estimate the fastness according to the dyeing characteristics. When the chitosan pre-treatment was introduced, the wash fastness increased significantly in the cotton fabrics while the fastness did not change in the nylon fabrics significantly. The light fastness was not improved by the chitosan treatment. when the antibacterial activity was measured for the dyed cotton fabrics, Japanese pagoda tree itself did not exhibit antibacterial activity. However, chitosan treated dyed fabrics exhibited low antimicrobial activity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1188-1195
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• 2005

The effects on the dyeing properties and antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with camomile extract were analyzed. As the results obtained, the surface color of all the dyed fabric was tinged with the yellow of the bright color tone. In the test results of durability, the durability to sunlight of the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk showed from 2nd grade to 3rd grade. The durability to laundry of the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk showed relatively higher grade of 4th-5th. The durability to synthetic sweat of all the fabrics except fer the dyed fabric mordanted with $CuSO_4{\cdot}5H_2O$ showed the relatively good result of 3rd- 5th grade. The durability to friction and dry cleaning of all the dyed fabrics showed the excellent result of 4th-5th grade. In the test results of antibiosis, the dyed fabric of cotton showed the decrease rate of $50\%$ to Staphylococcus aureus and the decrease rate of $70\%$ to Klebsiella pneumoniae. The dyed fabric of silk showed the significant effect with Microscopic growth to the mold bacillus Aspergillus niger.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.12-20
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• 2007

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts)were obtained by extraction from sappan wood, black tea, peony, and clove using water as extracting solvent at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 min with liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness and deodorizing properties of fabrics (cotton, silk, and wool fabrics) dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The K/S value of dyed cotton fabric increased in the order of peony < sappan wood < clove < black tea, however, the values of dyed silk and wool fabrics were in the order of peony < sappan wood < black tea < clove. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 3 - 5 grade except for sappan wood. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorants extracts was in the range of 56 - 99%. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of peony < black tea < sappan wood < clove. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with clove was found to be the highest at 98-99%.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.270-280
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• 2012

This study examined the dyeing characteristics of five oriental herbs, namely Gardenia jasminoides, Sophora japonica L., Rheum coreanum, Rhus javanica L., Ginkgo biloba L., on fabrics with traditional fermentation using malt. And the properties of Hwangsu (mineral water) of Yeongcheon (Korea)as a mordant in the post-treatment of textile were evaluated. The dyeability and fastness of cotton fabric and silk to light and washing as well as different fermentation periods and temperatures were investigated, and the following results were obtained. The dyeability of the fermented and non-fermented material did not show a significant difference. Fabrics mordanted with Hwangsu generally exhibited a reddish color due to the presence of iron. The dyeing of cotton fabric and silk by fermentation and Hwangsu mordanting were found to be effective on Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum. These results were confirmed through fastness to light 3 of cotton on Rheum coreanum and 3-4 of silk on Rhus javanica L., respectively. The washing fastness of both fabrics dyed with fermented Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum was improved, showing higher K/S value after washing than before washing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.953-960
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of fabrics with myrobalan extract was investigated. After dyeing of silk, cotton and rayon with myrobalan extract, the dyeability of myrobalan extract was evaluated with the conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, the changes of dyeability and surface colors by methods of mordanting and color fastness. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the colored solution from myrobalan extract appeared at 272 nm. Therefore, the substance of myrobalan extract was verified as tannin dyes. The optimum dyeing of fabrics was carried out at 30%(o.w.f) dye concentration. Silk fabrics dyed with myrobalan extract showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ when it was dyed for seventy minutes, while cotton and rayon fabrics showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ when they were dyed for seventy minutes and thirty minutes, respectively. Dyeing operation was carried out in acidic dyebath of pH 3. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher in pre-mordant stage than in post-mordant, while the K/S values of cotton and rayon fabrics were higher in post-mordant stage. The surface colors of dyed fabrics were different according to used mordants: Al and Cu mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, while Fe mordanted fabric was dyed in khaki-black color. Light-fastness of the color fastness was improved in Fe-mordant. Washing-fastness was relatively good, and dry cleaning-fastness of dyed fabrics was excellent.