• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.3 s.162
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• pp.433-439
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• 2007

The effects of nonionic surfactants on detergency and water wetting/retention properties of soiled cotton cloths were reported. Two different soiled cloths were used. soiled cotton cloth 1 was made in the lab. with carbon black, tripalmitin, n-dodecane & palmitic acid on Korea Apparel Testing & Research Institute(KATRI) cotton testcloth and soiled cotton cloth 2(EMPA 101) was purchased from Testfabrics, Inc., USA. The following nonionic surfactants; l.e., Span 20, Tween 20, 40, 60, 80, 21, 61, 81, 65, & 85, were used in the study. The water retention ratio(W/H) values of soiled cotton cloths were decreased, whereas the water contact angle values of soiled cloth were not changed markedly compared with those of unsoiled testcloths. The wetting and water retention of soiled cotton cloth 1 was improved with addition of nonoinic surfactants. The surfactants which have more hydrophilic characterictics or unsaturated hydrophobe tails were effective in improving wetting and water retention properties of soiled cotton cloth 1. The water contact angle values of soiled cotton cloths were extremely low with Span 20, presumably due to the high adsorption density or the surfactant. The detergency of soiled cloths were low in Span 20 and high in Tween 20, 40, 60 & 80 0.1g/dl surfactant solutions. Nonionic surfactants having higher ethylene oxide contents resulted in better detergency. In the range studied, the wetting and water retention of soiled cotton cloths did not show any particular relation to the detergency, whereas the surfactant characteristics, especially HLB values, influenced the detergency of soiled cotton cloths.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.140-145
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• 2011

The effects of nonionic surfactant solutions of 0.1g/dL on detergency and liquid wetting/retention properties of soiled polyester/cotton(65/35) cloth were studied. Soiled polyester/cotton(65/35) cloth (EMPA 104) and 10 different nonionic surfactants (Span 20, Tween 20, 40, 60, 80, 21, 61, 81, 65, 85) were used in the study. The water retention and liquid retention capacity values of soiled cloth were decreased compared with those of unsoiled cloth. The wetting and water retention of soiled cloth improved with addition of surfactants, whereas water retention ratio(W/H) values didnot change markedly. Generally surfactants with low surface tension and high HLB (Hydrophile-lipophile balance) were more effective in improving the wetting/retention properties of soiled cloth. Nonionic surfactants having high ethylene oxide contents of 20 moles; i.e., Tween 20, 40, 60 & 80, showed better detergency than low ethylene oxide contents of 4 moles; i.e., Tween 21, 61 & 81. As HLB values of surfactants and $cos{\theta}$ of the soiled cloth increase, the detergency values of soiled cloth increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.287-293
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• 2015

This research verifies stainability, super bacteria antibacterial features and antibiotic resistance of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica Nakai (UD) extract in dye cotton cloth. UD was extracted with hot water, the test cloth dyed, and then processed by mordanting treatment using $FeSO_4$ $7H_2O$, $CuSO_4$ $5H_2O$ and $Al_2(SO_4)_3$. The surface color and color fastness of the three kinds (original cloth, the cloth without mordancy and mordant cloth) were measured and the influence of dying of cotton cloth and the mordant method on the genesistasis of Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), antibiotic resistant bacteria. 1. The surface color of the cotton cloth for dyeing (without and with mordancy) displayed a reddish and yellowish color. Stainability was greatest when the mordant of $FeSO_4$ $7H_2O$ was used. 2. When a mordant was not used for dyeing, the color fastness to washing, perspiration and friction of the contaminated cloth was satisfactory at 4 to 5 grade in general. 3. As for the antibiotic effect to super bacteria, the growth of germ was meaningfully suppressed both on the cloth without and with mordancy compared to the comparison cloth; in addition, the dyeing method with the biggest antibacterial impact was found to be the mordancy with the mordant of $CuSO_4$ $5H_2O$ after dyeing. The results of the experiments that involved dyeing with UD extract showed that cotton cloth processed through mordancy with the mordant of $CuSO_4$ $5H_2O$ had the biggest antibiosis to super bacteria and that processed with the mordant of $FeSO_4$ $7H_2O$ had the greatest stainability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.37-45
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• 2003

This study is to research the changing trends in the trading goods and the cause of the change in the early Chosun dynasty and to find out the influence that the export goods had on the Chosun society. This research demonstrated the costume culture of the early Chosun was affected by the trading trends. The export items of Chosun showed differences in chronological order. They changed from hemp cloth to cotton cloth. The cause of such change in the export items was due to the change in the amount of demand and supply, to products of Chosun. and to social factors. Looking at the amount and items of the export goods to Japan, the amount was huge and the number of trade was a lot. There were several influences that the exporting cotton cloth to Japan had on Chosun's costume culture. First, the export caused the growth of cotton industry through the reinforcement policy. Next, it made the amount of national deposit of cotton cloth exhausted as a result of the increase in the amount of the exporting cotton. It also made worse the dual distribution structure of cotton cloth and the leaning toward bad cotton cloth. And in consequence of the connection between rich merchants and politicians, these social phenomena became worse and worse. And these facts demonstrate that the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty was affected by the trade between Chosun and Japan. Therefore, to better understand the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty, I propose to consider the consequences resulted from the trade with Japan.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.41-50
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• 2013

This study aims to contribute to development of sanitary pad meeting customers' requirements by examining types, sorts, sizes and specifications of cloth sanitary pads currently sold in the market, and the results are as follows. First, with respect to materials of inside cloth of cloth sanitary pads, in most cases, 100% cotton knit was used as materials of the inside cloth and the pads were finished with knit cotton(including organic cotton) and woven cotton bias. Second, for the structures of the cloth sanitary pads, the Jacquard knits in the shape of beehive or waffle are mostly used. Third, the sizes of cloth sanitary pads were classified with 7 sorts were discovered that can be divided into liner, small-size, medium-size, large-size, overnight, extra overnight, accounting for the most percentage among cloth sanitary pads. Fourth, 11 sorts among cloth sanitary pads whose front and back shapes are the same were discovered, accounting for the most percentage. Fifth, cloth sanitary pads can be largely classified into a wing type, all-in-one type and insertion type, which includes subsidiary absorption layer. 9 sorts were wing types and all-in-one types, accounting for the most and percentage. Compared with the scope of the market for women's articles, there is no relevant study, so this study is expected to provide basic materials for women's articles and contribute to development of environment-friendly products as an alternative to a disposable sanitary pad which not only causes environment pollution but also has bad effects on women's health.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-4
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• 2010

The hand printed cottons of India are historically world-renowned for their rich fast colours, elaborate designs, and matchless quality. Until the discovery of synthetic dyestuffs in the latter part of the nineteenth century, the unsurpassed master dyers of cotton were the craftsmen of India-birthplace of cultivated cotton. The Indian printers and dyers monopolised this arcane art of permeating cotton cloth with richly hued, colour-fast designs, and the fruits of their labour proved hugely influential in international trade and the development of modern textile technologies. This paper focuses on a lesser-known body of hand printed cottons, traditionally produced in rural Rajasthan for everyday use by the local pastoral communities. Drawing on extensive research carried out with the region's Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, the complex and multiple applications of mordant, dye and resist are illustrated. Often taking months to complete, the enduring popularity of these labour-intensive hand printed cottons is then discussed, particularly in the light of the hugesocial importance borne by cloth in Rajasthan. Cloth and clothing are widely recognised as indicators of social status, gender, rank, and individual and group affiliations. In addition, cloth and clothing have been established as indicators of social, economic, political and technological change. The paper concludes by drawing attention to the recent influx of machine-printed polyester textiles, often replicating the designs or colours of the traditional locally produced cottons. Thus women of the region, whilst using these modern synthetic textiles as part of newer ways of expressing their identity, also visibly retain the values associated with hand printed cottons and traditional dress codes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.89-97
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• 2003

This study is to review the development of calico printing pattern design for fabric through historical perspective. Calico is a cotton cloth named from Calicut, a city of India. It was first brought to England by the East India company in 1621. Although the name is generally given and plain white cotton cloth, and in America it is applied to small-scale printed cottons, today it applies to indian cotton cloth, coarse or fine, woven with colored geometrical large-scale and small-scale patterns, painted or printed. Therefore this paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of calico printing pattern from the early of 16th century to 21th century. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive calico pattern design in domestic cotton textile industry.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.179-186
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• 1995

The purpose of this paper was to identify bonding strength by weave (plain weave, twill weave, satin weave) and counts(20 s, 40s) of the face cloth cotton 100% in the course of sewing process using by cotton fabric of adhesive interlining. The results of the study was as follows. 1. With the increased laundry, it revealed that the bonding strength was decreased to some degree regardless of the kinds of face cloth. 2. the bonding strength by the counts of the face cloth appeared in order of 40 s<20 s. 4. It was observed that there are no significant differences on the adhesive strength in the cutting directions which are an inclination warp, weft, bias in this experiment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.9-15
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• 1981

damages of cotton cloth and characteristics of fabroid degradation were studied by Chaetomium globosum and Aspergillus niger which presupposed as powerful erosive fungi to cellulose fiber by means of tensile strength. The results obtained are as follows: 1. the growth(rate) of fungi in malt extract agar was superior to potato agar for two weeks. 2. Chaetomium globosum showed mostly severe damage t the cotton cloth in malt extract agar media at pH 4.5. 3. Tensile strength was reduced with time by Aspergillus niger-coenzyme and Chaetomium globosum-coenzyme reaction. In comparison with Chaetomium globosum and Aspergillus niger, the former weaken tensile strength about 15.8% and the latter enfeebled 10.0% after 124 hours. 4. after 30 days the breeding of fungi in pH 4.5 malt extract agar media, critical damage of cotton cloth was observe, I. e., 92.4% damage by chaetomium globosum and 74.9% lose by aspergillus nige respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.826-834
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• 2003

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture and a phase of the cloths in the relationship of the Chosun dynasty, by considering the exported goods from the Chosun dynasty of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the Chosun dynasty-Japan relationship in the 15th and 16th. The research findings, by analyzing various literatures and related documents, follow. The research results are as follow. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. The imported goods were somok, peppers, drug-stuffs, gold, bronze, sulfur, etc. The exported goods were books and cloths, such as hemp cloths, cotton cloths, silk, etc. The majority of exported goods was cloths, particularly cotton cloths. Meanwhile, in the 15th and the 16th century, with expanding of active trade towards Japan, the amount of export increased rapidly. As a result of the increase of exporting cotton cloths, the raw cottons production was increased and cotton cloth manufacturing was developed. However, it also expanded a dual structure of cotton cloths between the cotton cloths for exports and the cotton cloths for domestic markets. This dual structure of cotton cloth was lead to the deterioration of cotton cloths and had an effect on the price increases of domestic markets.