• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.129-139
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• 2001

Picasso had deep concern at the designs of theatre costumes as well as art. The art of Picasso influenced deeply to the fashion designs in those days. In these study, to analyze the creative theatre costumes of Parade affected by Picasso's cubism, we investigate the documentary records, photos, and sketches of Picasso. The design of theatre costumes in Parade was able to be divided by two categories, general theatre costumes and experimental theatre costumes. The first characteristic of general theatre costumes is that the designs of theatre costumes in Parade were influence by the early stages of Picasso's art. The costumes of the Chinese Conjurer influenced by the Red Era of Plcasso's art and those of the Little American Girl and the Acrobats influenced by the Blue Era of Picasso art may belong to the category of general theatre costumes. The second characteristic of general theatre costumes is the fact that the images of heavenly bodies were used in the costume of the Chinese Conjure and the Acrobats. The characteristic of experimental theatre costumes is the fact that the cubism is introduced to the designs of theatre costumes in Parade. The experimental theatre costumes were presented in the costumes of the Three Managers which were newly created under the influence of Picasso's cubism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.125-137
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• 2012

This study examines the stage costumes of the creative musical 'Hyecho', which was performed six times in the Chung Ang Art Center hosted by Chung-Ang University's performance & media agency from December 20 to 22 in 2006. The stage costumes were made based on these basic design elements of stage costumes that were dyed : line, silhouette, material, and color. First, the creative musical 'Hyecho' presents a new form of fusion theatre, which blends Korean traditional music and dance with videos. Thereby, the musical has opened a new phase in Korea's creative performing arts. Second, in musical performances that combines dance and songs, stage costumes should be made not only to attract the audience's eyes, but also not to interrupt actors' vocalizations and movements by taking their physical features into account. Also, costumes should be made in consideration of their relationships with visual elements, including stage settings and lighting. Third, the musical features fusion-style stage costumes, which combines Hanbok, the Korean traditional costume, and Indian traditional costumes with modern costumes. For the line and silhouette, costumes show the beauty of curves through the curves of Hanbok and India's traditional costumes and also through irregular pleats of pants. Also, by using cotton materials, which is easy to dye and not readily deformed, costumes feature colors that are found in nature through a gradation dyeing technique. In doing so, it offers visual amusement to the audience by making stage costumes look like a beautiful painting. Fourth, the stage costumes of the chorus feature costumes that use lining and pleated skirts using belts, and various accessories, including necklaces that use strings in order to express evil spirits. Since there is not much time to change costumes during a performance, using such items are helpful to show the unique characteristics of actors effectively during the limited time. Also, coordinating with the lighting director allows the costume designer to make better costumes for the chorus and make the performance more dramatic. Finally, it was not necessary to wash the costumes of the chorus of the fusion musical Hyecho 2006 since it was performed only six times. However, when using dyed costumes for the long-term performance, it might cause problems such as bleaching that result from the washing of costumes and low durability that can result in the deformation of costumes. As performing arts are made in various forms and are diversified, it is needed for stage costumes to change accordingly through new attempts and various ways of expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.687-699
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• 2011

Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2015

This study aims to provide a new perspective on Disney's animations, by examining how Disney systematized and transformed his own ways of cognitive systems of producing meaning through the costumes of his characters. For this purpose, 10 Disney animations of which the main characters were costume-wearing humans were selected and analyzed. First, the characters' costumes of the passive female heroines were much different from those of the active female heroines while the costumes of male heroes did not have any common characteristics. Second, the characters' costumes according to the settings of the animations had different aspects: the Western-Europe-based animations exhibited the appropriate costumes of the set times, but the non-Western-Europe-based animations exhibited the imaginative costumes of Disney rather than the appropriate costumes of the actual countries. Third, the costumes played the role of expressing the situations of the animations, and had their own repetitive conventions in each animation. Changes in the situations or the upward mobility of the status could be found easily through the costumes, but such distinctiveness became less visible in the later animations. Disney displayed his own distinctive formula of visual aesthetics through the characters' costumes. But it is recommended that we should have the critical views on the cultural messages of Disney's to prevent fixed ideas or cultural prejudices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.81-94
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• 2007

Luxury, an expression of richness and expensiveness which can be achieved after putting in extensive an elaborate handworks, has been expressed in Hollywood movie costumes. The purpose of this thesis is to explore the characteristics of movie costumes of Hollywood studio designers, and to contemplate luxury expressed in movie costumes for such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the luxury in movie costumes which has been reflected in fashion history, film studies and feminist theories, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The luxury expressed in movie costumes could be identified as expensiveness, exclusiveness, excess, and indulgence. In the movie costumes, expensive materials such as furs, jewelry, and decorations were used. Couture and custom-made costumes were the expressions of exclusivity. Also, the excessive luxury were the expression of bigness, scalelessness or extreme abundance. Indulgence in luxury is shown in use of uncommon characteristics, especially in gangster movie costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.181-196
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• 1998

This study is about the similarities and the individualties of the traditional costumes in the ruling classes of Koguryo(高句麗), Bakjae(百濟), and Shilla(新羅). The analysis is based on the views of historical reformation on$\boxDr$Sam-gooksagi(三國史記)$\boxUl$Bongi(本紀). The costumes that were worn by the governing classes are categorized by the following, official duties, wars, ceremonies, and recreations(hunting). Up to the present time, there has been a great tendency to emphasize the similarities of the Three Kingdoms' costumes among most of academic researchers. However, the conceptions of individualities of the costumes among the Three Kingdoms were conceived by the facts that geological environments, political systems, social traditions, social aspects, and foreign affairs. The Three Kingdoms had different official rank systems along with official costume systems. Monopolization of official positions of the ruling parties tried to show their dignity and authority through styles of their costumes. The costumes of Koguryo were greatly differentiated by geographical regions ; One direct example is cheak of Pyoungyang and Anak regiona was named as official hats of rulling parties of Kokuryo. However, in this study, the cheak was viewed as a product of influences of Chinese costume. Further-more, the laguan was named as mooguan. Costumes of ceremonial occasions were heavily decorated to symbolize dignity and auth-ority. Metal ornament of headgear and belt, metal shoes were con-sidered as ceremonial costumes. the tight hunting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-ting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-tings were presumed to be spring and autumn clothing. Excavated from Neungasnlee, the hunting costumes inscribed in the gold incense burnner were confirmed as hunting costumes of Bakjae. The individuality of the costumes of the Three Kingdoms could also be supported by the fact that they had different climates. The temperature difference between Gipan region and Kyoungjoo(慶州) region was emphasized. Especially winter clothing would have had a big difference in style than the summer clothing. Through the research summarized above, this study was able to confirm that each of the Three Kingdoms had developed individualized costumes based on their geographical, cultural and environmental factors. Furthermore, through this study, it was possible to find out the difference as well as the similarities of their costumes according to each of their people's sociopolitical status, awareness of indepen-dence, andunique historical and traditional charactoristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.167-179
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• 1998

The objective of this study is to examine the costumes of the period covered in the writings of Shilhak (practical science) scholars and to research the history of costumes and their characteristics by examining how they are worn in genre paintings which are said to describe the actual life of the period. This should be studied in order to correctly establish the history of costumes. To begin with, through the writings of the representative Shilhak scholars who are thought to have affected the changes in ordinary costumes for woman, this study examined how ordinary woman of the period looked in their costumes and how they regarded various costumes they had. Then, how their viewpoints of costumes influenced ordinary costumes was investigated. Not only relics, but what was commonly worn, as they appeared in the genre paintings that contain information about daily living of that period, were researched chronologically. The results of this study showed that the change in ordinary costumes for woman in the late Chosun period was affected by Shilhak scholars who had ideologies of Shilsakusi (use of positive methods in studying), Yiyonghusaeng (the promotion of commerce and industry and the development of techonologies), and Ky ngsech'iyong (pursuit of stability in a rural economy). Moreover, after those changes there were many more changes. However, the criticism of costumes of that time and the will of revolution affected some time, costumes changed directly. The forms of the costumes had been changed in a variety of ways following the tendencies of the times, but the origin of today's hanbok (Korean traditional dress) had already been fixed in the late Choson period. Yet, today's hanbok are for special occasions, not worn as ordinary clothing. Thus, there are several reasons why the hanbok is not suitable for daily life. One of the reasons is that Korean could not cope with the western costumes indepen-dently imported during Japanese occupation in the last period of the Choson Dynasty and con-tinuing the Japanese Colony. Thus, only a part of the ordinary costume of the late Choson period has remained until now.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.107-120
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• 2016

This study examines functions in traditional Korean special costumes in accordance with the climatic factors of the Korean peninsula. The study focused on clothes worn by commoners during the Joseon dynasty. Climate change has been a major global issue in recent times, and it has been a hot topic in social, cultural, scientific, economic, and industrial communities. Studies have been conducted regarding the rapidly changing climate, and finding ways to cope with unusual temperatures. This thesis studies the development of special costumes in preparation for unusual climates, and requirements of the costume in accordance with the climatic factors, as well as the direction of its development. Its biggest significance lies in collecting and organizing the research data on special costume studies, and on costumes of the commoners, which have been fairly insufficient up to this point. After the Little Ice Age, the Joseon Dynasty period faced poor external environment due to unusual temperatures. The results of studying the costumes of the commoners are as follows: The climate of the Korean peninsula displayed different characteristics depending on the season, so the form, material, and appearance of the seasonal clothing items showed clear differences, and the difference in the crops cultivated according to the climate led to difference in material and material preference shown in the costumes. This meant that costumes differed based on region. In addition, difference in social hierarchy, regulations on costume according to class, and farming oriented social background during the period of Joseon dynasty slowed the development of costumes of commoners, but appears to have had a positive effect on the development of special costumes. We anticipate more succeeding studies on costumes of the commoners and special costumes in the future. We hope more costumes that can wisely respond to the approaching changes in temperature in the Korean peninsula can be designed via modernization of traditional Korean special costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.179-186
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyzed factors that influenced the degree of satisfaction difference of domestic and imported theatre costumes. One hundred and fifty theatrical artists were surveyed by questionnaires, and response from 128 was statistically analyzed. The data was analyzed using frequency, and paired t-test with SPSSWIN 10.0. The results were as follows. 1. The degree of satisfaction between domestic and imported theatrical costumes was different significantly. 2. The degree of satisfaction of domestic theatrical costumes was tow in the areas of design, color, fabric, and suitability with a historical background, compared with imported costumes. A major cause of the low degree of satisfaction was the lack of funds and professional theatrical costume designers. 3. The degree of satisfaction of imported theatrical costumes was low in the cost, size, and alteration and mending facilities, compared with the domestic costumes. The problems of size was caused by the shape difference between Koreans and a foreigners 4. further research should be conducted into the theatre costumes suitable for the domestic theatrical artists's size, and body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.21-36
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• 2008

This study intended to analyze the morphological characteristics and images of figure skating costume designs in order to grope the figure skating costume designs that can effectively demonstrate beauty in actual competitions. The study was implemented on the figure skating costumes of Ladies medalists in 4 largest international competitions held in 2005. The morphological elements of the costumes for Ladies include lines and colors, textures, details and accessories and these are used in designing for visual effects of movements and for maximum expressions of program images. The images that account for the largest percentage of Ladies figure skating costumes were shown to be elegant images followed by sexy images, luxury images and girlish images in the order of precedence. Overwhelmingly many refined and sexy images were presented in 2005 season and in 2006 season appeared along with them, many costumes with individual and gorgeous images. In 2007 season appeared many costumes with matured and exotic images and in 2008 began to appear many refined and elegant costumes. The images of costumes show slight differences among players enabling the taste of each player for figure skating costumes to be guessed.