• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.208-219
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• 1999

The costume style of Turfan had changed three times which were the period of peculiar style the period of Kochang style the period of influence of T'ang's culture. Before the founding of Kochang country the costume style of Turfan was two piece style. It was a character of nomadic people's clothes. Tops were tunic and caftan. The method of adjust caftan were two types. The one is wrapping toward left so the right edge of the top covers the left. The other is wrapping toward right. Bottoms were pants and skirts. This period was characterized by the traditional style. I called in it the period of peculiar style After the founding of Kochang country style as Kochang style. In this period Silkroad was so activated that cultural exchanges between many people and materials passed through Turfan. Turfan's culture soaked up the products of civilization of chinese and western Turkestan. Chinese and western Turkestan's costume influencd under the direct control of T' ang dynasty. Such an aspects were reflected the Trufan's costume. The Trucan's costume had changed into the foreign style that was the T'ang's costume. It was the period of influence of T'ang culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.732-740
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to discuss Joseon dynastyis first perspective on the Western-style Court Costume which was newly introduced to Joseon through the problems receiving the credential that Japan had sent in new style. For this study, the records of Joseon and Japan at that period have been analyzed. The followings are the results of this research; First, a critical argument on the Western-style Court Costume occurred just before the Port Opening because whether wearing a western costume was the key factor in Joseon dynastyis receiving the credential that Japan had send in new style. Second, Japan received western costume as its domestic courtesy system by establishing the Court Costume of Civil servants in 1872 and consequently Japan established new ceremony procedure of western-style bow in 1875. Third, Joseon dynasty officially opposed to the Western-style Court Costume when Japan sent the credential, because the western costume selected by Japan had beenregarded as that of western barbarian at that time in Joseon. Accordingly, it seems reasonable that before the introduction of western costume into Joseon dynasty, an open-door policy for the West had been a prior settlement for Joseon dynasty regardless of the details of Western-style Court Costume. And also, the pride of civilization of Joseon dynasty, which has been used to express Joseon dynastyis identity as Joseon-centrism, had to be converted before the open-door policy. Ultimately, it could be inferred that the reception of the Western-style Court Costume had been raised as the political and diplomatic problems in the circumstances when the submissive relationship in the traditional Eastern- Asia had been forced to be converted to modern sovereign international relationship.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.124-135
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• 2007

Being called 'the period of diversity', the 21st century is taking on a new aspect which is different from the past where a certain phenomenon of a specific area was prescribed as one representative icon of a period. In particular, the globalization culture acted as the catalyst to accept such diversity and it appeared as a new culture code, 'fusion' throughout society and culture. Especially, unlike two-hour movies, the recent drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$ showed various fusion style costume over a period of three months and created a sensation of fusion style costume. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating fusion style costume by selecting the TV drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$ which was on the air in 2006. Though various studies on fusion style costume, which is becoming a new culture code, have been conducted, this study is meaningful in that it's time to conduct a new study through a popular TV drama. Based on preceding studies on fusion style, the elements of fusion style were analyzed by capturing the most frequently exposed heroine's costume, and new design development introducing fusion elements was attempted for empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the fusion trend is a culture code which already spread to the public and is shown in the fashion in various ways. Second, the drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$, is commented as a new dram which introduced the fusion style costume into Korea through a modern version of constitutional monarchy and is commented as a medium which created an interest in the fusion costume among the public as well. Third, new trend elements of the fusion style could be derived through empirical studies by design development.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.1-11
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• 1985

RESULTS : Considering the archaeological evidences, it is velieved that the southern culture centered in KuSu and the Nothern Culture centered in the centeral Japan, specially at the estern Japan, existed together with the culture come through the southern regions and northern regions of Japanese Islands in Jomon Culture and Yayoi Culture period. As the center of territory moved from KuSu to GiNae in Tumulus Culture period, two-pieced style of the northern people who have already there became prevalent. The costume of Tumulus Culture period was developed from the coexistence f southern style and northern style to the merge of the two styles by the nomads come from Korean Peninsula. The riding costume was propagated by Koreans, and the style used in Korean Peninsula was more deeply influenced to the costume of the ruling class. The costume of Asuka Culture and MakuHo Culture period succeeds the costume of Tumulus Culture period without wide difference. But the costume of Korean Peninsula lied more deeply as the root of Japanese Costume. While the costume of the ruling class was changed into Tang's style, the costume of the masses was under the influence of the costume of Korean Peninsula. It became the base of current Japanese Folk Costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.319-335
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• 2002

Nongae was the official Kinye(관기) who had exhisted, her portrait was enshrined at an ancestral tablet hall beside Choksukloo. This portrait of Nongae was a work of a painter, Un Ho-Kim. In any case, a study on the costume of the portrait of one person must be taken the costume of the period. This study investigates the character of clothing style in King Sunjo 26(1593) and in her present portrait. And so, her portrait who was enshrined at the place didn't agree with it's clothing in King Sunjo 26(1593) The results of this study are as follows : The portrait of Nongae took the costume style of the beginning of about 1910. and so this style was different from the style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593). The style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593) : Jacket : It's jacket was long(near hip) and broad, it's sleeve length was long, it's form was a straight line. Skirt : It's skirt was very long. It's silhouette was formed a soft line The costume of the figure in this picture in wrong from historical point of view. And so, the costume of Nongae in the portrait must adjust it in the clothing style of about 1593.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.110-124
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• 2015

This study examined a phenomenon of exaggerated hairstyle in the history of Western custom through publications related with Western costume and research papers. By adopting the criteria of Delong, M. R. to analyze visual forms shown by interaction between human body and costume worn over the body, it analyzed the formative characteristics by the interaction between hairstyle and costume. In addition, it inferred the aesthetic characteristics through content analysis of examined phenomenon focusing on socio-cultural background and costume socio-psychological precedent studies. Formative characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle applied by analysis criteria of Delong, M. R. were in pursuit of the emphasis style. This was clearly and intensively recognized by forming spaces for mostly closure style, part style, three dimensional style, determinate style, and space separation style. Regarding the interaction between hair and ornamentations, 'precedence of ornamentation' was pursued as ornamentations were recognized earlier than the hair itself. It means associative meanings of the surface effect were accompanied by emotions of 'intensiveness' and the pursuit of the attractive style. As for the interaction between hairstyle and costume, there were many cases of pursuing 'continuity' mutually and visually by connecting the hairstyle and the costume. Aesthetic characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle were inferred as 1) the expression of the sprite of the age(i.e. art, culture, politics, society, ideology, religion), 2) symbols of wealth, class, authority, and excellence, 3) pursuit of addicted desire to ornament, and 4) harmony through continuity with costume. This study verified that hairstyle was connected as a part of costume, or formed as a way to express deeper human psychology beyond just a part of a costume. It was also confirmed that hairstyle was an expressive method to express the spirit of the age, such as art, culture, society, religion, ideology.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.445-460
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• 1994

This paper analyzes Empire style costume based on the fashion theory of Lauer and Lauer. We classify fashion into tow categories, a personal identities, the social competition and sexual competition, he economic factor as a functional factor, and the reflective thing of zeitgeist, eroticism as a dynamic factor. These factors can be visualized from fashion design, textiles, ornaments expressed in the paintings.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2003

This study aims to recognize the value of traditional culture and to create 'Korean style rest costume' i.e. in-door clothes for comfort's purpose designed for hotel or other tourist accommodations with its own image. In so doing, national pride and identity will be exalted for Koreans, while an opportunity of cultural expose will be provided for foreigners through the symbols of Korea, which will contribute to the international introduction and representation of Korea. First, this study investigates the external characteristics in forms and structures of Korean style rest costume. Second, questionnaires regarding consciousness of Korean style rest costume and preference in design are distributed to the hotel guest and staff-both domestic and international- to be fir out. Lastly, designed rest costume representing Korean image, based on the results of the survey. Upon investigation, users and employers both preferred two piece style which is separated to upper garment and lower garment. While employers preferred short sleeve, users preferred long sleeves. In colors, employers preferred blue while users preferred white. In garments, both of. the employers and users preferred cotton, towel and cotton flannel. In addition, when introducing rest costume, it will be efficient to distinct the strategy between natives and foreigners, and also distinguish where the rest costume will be used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.121-142
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• 1995

The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.13-29
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze eroticism shown in the fashion of Lady Gaga's music video. This study methods taken theoretical consideration and then was classified eroticism based on previous studies and was analyzed costumes from Lady Gaga's music video. The results of this study were as follows: Avant-garde style exaggerates shoulders, hips, a hat or uses metal and glossy material, tape, leather and it was expressed into emphasizing or baldly exposing breast. Primitive style was expressed in ethnic style and animal patterns, lingerie look with drastic, bald exposing fashion. Romantic style was expressed using rococo style costume, frill, pleats, decoration and was produces eroticism with see-through look or costume fitting to the body. Sportive style expresses a healthier and erotic image using tight costume in yellow, blue and black while exposing belly and legs. Janus-faced style was expressed by dressing up like a man or using the method of attachment and exposure in clergy's costume. Humorous style was expressed by emphasizing parts of body or costume itself. As examined in the above, Lady Gaga was expressed various eroticism images in her music video and is builds her own sexually appealing.