• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.105-119
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to grasp the aesthetic characteristics of the retro romantic fashion. As a result of study, three artistic characteristics of the retro romantic fashion were presented. First, retro romantic fashion has an exaggerated formativeness. Retro romantic fashion has overcome the confinement of the present to imitate the splendor and decorative style of the past which results in exaggeration. Exaggerated costume tends to be spaciously bigger and emphasizes one particular part which offers implicated significance for the space between the body and the costume. A new visual fashion is created through this space. Second, retro romantic fashion encompasses gorgeous decorativeness. From an artistic point of view, decorations are part of impulsively formulated art. Artistic effects of such decorations are uniformly confirmed in various artistic states. Therefore, through gorgeous decorations, retro romantic fashion rejects artificiality and lack of sensitivity for new effects of aesthetics through expression of stronger artistic and spiritual desires. Third, retro romantic fashion expresses pluralistic retro. The current society has left the formalities of the modernism for a pluralistic society where openness, diversity, and uniqueness are respected. Such components of the pluralistic society are repetitively used in fashion. Time reflective retro romantic fashion is being recreated by borrowing images rather than replaying the historical contents, with the style, silhouette, and specific items that swayed in the past, being combined with modern materials, techniques, and designs. Literature review were conducted for this study. Literature review on retro romanticism encompassed resources on aesthetics, literature and art, including national and international fashion related literatures.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.399-406
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• 2023

Due to the increasing influence of the Korean Wave, traditional themes are emerging to the forefront of performance content development, emphasizing the necessity of applying the art of storytelling to the creative process. The purpose of this research is to examine the differentiated costume design of the Pansori ballet "Dokkaeba! Dokkaeba!," developed through the implementation of storytelling in its performance creation process. Choreographers, writers, and costume designer collaborated throughout the storytelling process from planning to content creation. This resulted in a clarified depiction of the Dokkaebi as divine beings with transcendental powers who are simultaneously friendly and familiar entities, often appearing in the form of humans and objects. Accordingly, the costume design based on this collaborative storytelling deliberately avoided the appearance of Dokkaebi reminiscent of 'Kwimyeonwa' or Japanese 'Oni', typically expressed with horns or decorations, and instead implemented novel design elements, such as fusion Hanbok with a variety of dimensionally aesthetic accessories, meaningful color contrast in modern clothing, textural elements indirectly expressing character and transmogrification, and daily clothing attire to illustrate the humanized Dokkaebi. Therefore, this study seeks to contribute to the production of new performance art showcasing the Dokkaebi by identifying the diversity of expression and direction within costume design.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.779-785
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• 2023

In the creation of non-verbal dance performance, stage costumes are an important element of visual expression and serve an expanded role in addition to its fundamental decorativeness, representation of status reflective of the historical setting of the act and functionality for the dance movement. We intends that the purpose of this research is to analyze the expanded role of the costumes in the creative ballet <'That' Girl>, and through this exercise, provide foundational data on and suggest new future directions for stage costume design. <'That' Girl> is composed of two acts, offering condolences and eliciting empathy by conveying the fear experienced by the victims of the time. The second dance act representing freedom and "Haan" requires this expanded application of costume design. The costume design was inspired by the "Statue of Peace" representing comfort women, and completed through three draft designs and material experiments testing the ease of operation of the strings and fabrics installed in the costumes as well as the functionality of the associated ballet movements. In conclusion, expansion of time & space, expansion of form and expansion of symbolic expression were shown in the dance of liberation using strings wrapped around the arms and through the cloth embodying 'Haan' hidden in front of the costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.547-563
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• 2024

This study aims to examine the expressive characteristics of the New Chinese style in the collection of Chinese fashion designer Ziggy Chen, analyze the inner meaning, and suggest a new direction in Chinese fashion design. As a research method, the background and concept of New-Chinese style occurrence were examined through previous studies, and the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in fashion were investigated. The characteristics of the New Chinese style were summarized as cultural tradition, historical ethnicity, and pluralistic convergence. Based on these contents, the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in Ziggy Chen's men's fashion design were analyzed. The data collection range was selected as the range of 20 seasons collected from 2012 S/S to 2022 A/W, which was collected on fashion sites and the brand's official Instagram. The analysis results are as follows. First, subcultural resistance is a retro and ragged decadence formed by combining punk elements and industrial styles based on the clothing styles of lower-class Chinese people in the 17th and 90s. Second, cultural traditionality was influenced by traditional culture by mainland Chinese designers, who expressed the conservative presence of tradition and the Chinese style by looking at it from an oriental perspective. Third, historical ethnicity forms a Chinese fashion culture in which the national spirit and the development of the times coexist, while traditional culture and contemporary social values develop in harmony. Fourth, traditional fashion develops by combining a contemporary aesthetic sense and lifestyle with pluralistic convergence.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.838-853
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to identify adult learners' decision making variables, satisfaction, and evaluation toward fashion education as a university lifelong education program. As decision making variables, this study included participation purpose, information source, and selection criteria for lifelong education center and program. Regarding satisfaction toward fashion education, this study included satisfaction toward program and satisfaction toward education condition and administrative services. Data were gathered by both questionnaires and focus group interview(FGI) with 12 adults who completed the program. While questionnaires were used for decision making variables and satisfaction, FGI was used for evaluation. Frequency was used to analyze the questionnaires and content analysis was used to analyze the results of FGI. The findings showed that respondents participated mostly because of hobby or interest and got information mostly from acquaintances. They regarded program contents as the selection criteria for lifelong education center. They also regarded lecturers' professionality as the selection criteria for the program and showed high satisfaction toward lecturers' passion. Regarding education condition and administrative services, they showed high satisfaction. FGI also showed the importance of individual competence, career development, a work-study program, a on-site study program, and lecturer. The results suggest methods to make university lifelong education programs more appealing to adults who want to attend universities for non-degree university programs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.705-725
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• 2015

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.508-526
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• 2020

This study has established a fashion illustration education plan using the contour drawing that fosters observational ability and enables creative drawing. This study developed two illustration curriculum proposals consisting of 15 weeks, combining literature and case studies. The researchers organized a step-by-step teaching plan that utilizes contour drawing according to the three stages of fashion illustration classes: foundation courses, general courses, and intensive courses. When the contour drawing is used at the beginning stage of the foundation courses of fashion illustration, it can be used as a technique to reduce the fear of students about practical skills, induce interest in illustration, and cultivate observation ability about objects. In general process, it is combined with various tools and coloring materials to strengthen expression power, and it is possible to produce detailed expressions and illustrations about human body and clothing. In intensive courses, it is expanded to the production of creative works with new aesthetics through digital techniques and mixed materials. As such, the contour drawing is expanded in various ways according to the learning contents and goals of each step, and is flexibly adjusted according to the learning content. Contour drawing has the effect of acquiring observation and expression ability, and it is analyzed as a technique that enables the production of creative illustration of students.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.518-530
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• 2011

Based on the development of digital technology, Photoshop as a computer graphics program has extended its range of application to creative techniques that can express the contemporary sense of fashion illustration. Thus, the objectives of this study are to seek a new technique of fashion illustration through a study of computer graphics programs required for vitalization in this digital era and to present the application. This is done after a literature review and empirical investigation. For the literature review, specialty publications with precedent studies related to the subject of this study are examined, and internet materials with related key words are sought to establish the reference data for the study. For the empirical investigation, cases of each expression for blending mode are examined to seek the correct means of fashion illustration. Five works are created as a result. The specific contents of this study are as follows: First, the types and characteristics of blending mode are examined. Second, cases in which the blending mode is applied are analyzed to seek insight into their utilization. Third, five works are created by applying the blending mode to present the result.