• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.65-73
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• 2021

It is very important to control the inflammation of the skin because it can develop into diseases such as atopy as well as scarring and aging. In this work, we recently identified the in vitro synthesis of specialized pro-resolving mediators (SPMs) known to control inflammation in the human body and the applicability of cosmetics. Using recombinant protein of lipoxygenase from Glycine max, we succeeded to prepare mixtures of mono- or di-hydroxy DHA named as S-SPMs and used them for in vitro efficacy test. To investigate anti-inflammatory effect of S-SPMs, mRNA level of TNF-α and IL-6 were analyzed. Under UVB exposed condition, expression of both were decreased by S-SPMs treatment. And we observed reduced production of nitric oxide (NO) by S-SPMs application under the condition with diesel particulate matter (DPM). At the same experimental condition, malondialdehyde (MDA) production was decreased by S-SPMs, indicating the inhibitory effect of S-SPMs in lipid peroxidation. In addition, S-SPMs treatment resulted in reduction of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) expression and elevation of procollagen type I synthesis. Together with this, mRNA level of filaggrin and loricrin were increased by S-SPMs, indicating enhancement of skin barrier function. These results demonstrate that S-SPMs is a good candidate to develop as a cosmetic ingredient for anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle, and improvement of skin barrier function.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.259-267
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• 2023

This study was conducted to evaluate physiological activity of flower extract of peony (Paeonia lactiflora Pall.) by hydrolysis and to use it as a valuable cosmetic ingredients. Four cultivar of peony flowers were extracted, and the highest active ingredient contents was selected, and that cultivar was used for hydrolyzing. The results showed that high concentration of hydrochloric acid (HCl) hydrolyzed, and biological hydrolysis using enzymes had no activity. The deglycosylation of peonidin 3,5-diglucoside occurred by hydrolysis. The hydrolysate contains 63.3 ppm of peonidin, a red-colored anthocyanin compound. The antioxidant activity of hydrolysate was compared with extract. The results showed the strong antioxidant activity in hydrolysate (96%) than extract (82%). In addition, hydrolysate of peony flower showed higher inhibitory activity of NO release than extract. UVA assay using fibroblast cell (CCD-986Sk) showed that hydrolysate increased cell viability than extract under UVA exposure. Based on these results, we anticipate that hydrolysate of peony flower can be used a valuable cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.694-701
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• 2015

In order to get stabilized pure retinol in skin care cosmetics, developing the three layered matrix bead capsules were studied. This study relates to make a cosmetic composition using the three layered matrix capsule that could increase the stability of the active ingredient. A primary encapsulation, vitamin A (pure retinol) of active ingredient was perfectly capsulated into water-in-oil (Water-in-Oil: W/O) emulsion vesicle using PEG-10 dimethicone copolyol emulsifier. A secondary encapsulation of multiple emulsion of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsion blending W/O emulsion using sucrose distearate of surfactant was developed using homogenizing emulsifying system. Pure retinol of active ingredient was stably capsulized to inside the W/O/W-multiple emulsion in order to load the triple matrix capsulation. By coating it with a polymer matrix base, encapsulated in the triple layered type, which were developed bead encapsulation of 2~10mm uniformly size. To show beautifully appearance capsulated bead type, these finish particles in this triple matrix layer were developed as a gold, green, dark brown, silver and blue color were encapsulated in the bead types. Structural particle certification of triple matrix layer was observed through SEM analysis. Stability of pure retinol was remained stable more than 99.7% for 30 days at $42^{\circ}C$ incubating conditions compared with non-capsule. This technology was applied in different formulations such as various sizes and colors that by applying the skin care cosmetics. In the future, this technology to encapsulate an unstable active ingredient, we expect to be expanded this application in the food and drug as a time delivery system.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.51-55
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• 2012

Formaldehyde is commonly present in cosmetic products as an ingredient intended to preserve cosmetic raw materials or as a liberated product from other formaldehyde-releasing preservatives. Since even low level of formaldehyde can elicit a dermatological reactions in sensitized individuals, there has been a tendency to restrict and regulate the use of formaldehyde in cosmetic products. In this study, we determined formaldehyde content in 114 commercial cosmetic products such as packs and masks. Formaldehyde was detected at the level ranging from 0.3 to $9.7{\mu}g/mL$ (ppm) in 36 % of the tested cosmetic products. We investigated formaldehyde content of twelve products specifying to contain formaldehyde-releasing preservatives on their labels. In eleven of ten imidazolidinyl urea-containing and two 1,3-Dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDM hyantoin)-containing products, average of $1.7{\mu}g/mL$ (ppm) formaldehyde level was detected. The formaldehyde levels detected in our tested products are low when compared with the maximum authorised concentration 0.2 % (2000 ppm) of formaldehyde in cosmetics according to the Korean Food and Drug Administration notice.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The aim of this study was to investigate the inhibitory effects of Forsythia suspensa fruit extracts (FSfE) ($0.1{\sim}1.0%$) and their active component on melanogenesis. FSfE dose-dependently inhibited melanin synthesis (up to $63.1{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of 1.0%) without cell cytotoxicity. We purifed one active compound from FSfE and identified its structure. It was identified as 4-[(3,4-Dimethoxyphenyl)methyl)]dihydro-3-[(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)methyl]-2(3H)-furanone (arctigenin) by $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR$, and Mass analysis. Arctigenin also inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (up to $52.7{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of $3.0{\mu}g/mL$). In order to verify the whitening activity of the cream containing 3% FSfE, we performed the clinical test with twenty five female volunteers for 8 weeks. Bioengineering analyses and visual assessment by doctors at the initial time point and 8 weeks after applications showed that cream containing FSfE have significant whiteining effect (paired t-test). From the results, we conclude that the FSfE can be used as a useful whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.319-326
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• 2011

In order to investigate the potential of Nigella sativa (N. sativa) oil as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics, we prepared N. sativa oil. We measured its inhibitory effects on mushroom tyrosinase activity, cellular tyrosinase activity, and melanin synthesis inhibitory activity in B16 melanoma cells. N. sativa oil and its components showed inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. In a melanin synthesis inhibition assay using mouse B16-F10 melanoma cell, it reduced melanin production up to 86 % at a concentration of 10 mg/mL without cytotoxicity. In the study on the melanogenic protein expressions by using RT-PCR and Western blot, N. sativa oil and its components inhibited expression of tyrosinase protein, which is a well-known key protein on melanogenesis, and tyrosinase expression was gradually decreased in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore, this result suggests that N. sativa oil could be used as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.257-267
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• 2012

The present studies were undertaken to compared application as cosmetic ingredients of carrot glycoprotein(CG) manufactured by carrot and it's application for raw material of beauty ingredient with those of scale collagen peptide(SCP). CG and SCP apply functionality of each cream did not have fading, smell change, creaming effect and cohesion, that means the CG's properties turned out to be very stable in $5^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$. Trans epidermal water loss content was significantly lower in CG and amount of water contained in skin was significantly higher in CG. These results suggest that cream containing CG turned to be very effective in improving wrinkles excellent humid-protection as well as SCP to skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.1 s.60
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• pp.41-45
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• 2007

Recently plant extracts have obtained increased attention because of their health-related beneficial aspects. In this study, we evaluated anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-wrinkle of four different extracts obtained from Rubus coreanus (ethanol extracts of unripe, ripe fruits, leaves/stems, and roots). The ethanol extract of unripe fruits of Rubus coreanus generally showed stronger whitening and the anti-wrinkle activities than other extracts of Rubus coreanus. As a results, we knew that the ethanol extract of unripe Rubus coreanus fruit had mote possibility as a whitening and anti-wrinkle ingredient for skin care products.

• Toxicological Research
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.1-4
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• 2012

Bee venom (Apis mellifera L., BV) has been used as a cosmetic ingredient for antiaging, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial functions. The aim of this study was to access the skin sensitization of BV, a Buehler test was conducted fifty healthy male Hartley guinea pigs with three groups; Group G1 (BV-sensitization group, 20 animals), group G2 (the positive control-sensitization group, 20 animals), and group G3 (the ethyl alcohol-sensitization group, 10 animals). The exposure on the left flank for induction was repeated three times at intervals of one week. Two weeks after the last induction, the challenge was performed on the right flank. No treatment-related clinical signs or body weight changes were observed during the study period. The average skin reaction evaluated by erythema and edema on the challenge sites and sensitization rate in the BV-sensitization group at 30 hours were 0.0 and 0%, respectively, which are substantially low compared with in positive control group (average skin reaction: 0.55, sensitization rate: 40%) and identical with in vehicle control group, representing a weak sensitizing potential. The average skin reaction and sensitization rate observed at 54 hours were 0.0 and 0% in the BV-sensitization group, respectively, and 0.25 and 20% in the positive control group, respectively. It was concluded that BV classified to Grade I, induced no sensitization when tested in guinea pigs and may provide a developmental basis for a cosmetic ingredient or external application for topical uses.

• Journal of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.707-710
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• 2010

Mt. Jiri, where is located in southwestern area of Korea, can be a treasury of herbal medicine plants grown wild. More than 1200 species currently classified as herbs are grown or cultivated. Recently, the studies on the safflower which attracts the interests in the inhibition of skin aging in the modern people have been actively investigated, and this study aims to confirm that polyphenol compound, the main ingredient of safflower, can be a natural material to cause the delayed effect on the skin aging, inhibiting the generation of wrinkle in the 30 to 40s middle aged females. Primarily, this study is to confirm the anti-oxidizing effect by DPPH assay in vitro, and to evaluate the efficacy of inhibition or improvement on the wrinkle generation in the face skin by clinical trials, additionally. In addition, we are confident to contribute on the improvement of functional cosmetic industry, developing the sample product of anti-aging mask pack which has the main ingredient with the extract of safflower.