• Title/Summary/Keyword: cosmetic agents

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An Experimental Study on the Property and Stability of W/O Emulsion by Various Structures of Emulsifier (유화제의 구조에 따른 W/O 에멀젼의 특성 및 안정도에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Woon-Ha;Lee, Kwang-Sik;Lee, Kun-Kook
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.38 no.2
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    • pp.119-131
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    • 2012
  • The W/O emulsion is widely used for cosmetics because of its water-proofing benefit and long-lasting moisturizing effect. However, because of low stability of the W/O emulsion, it is very important to control the concentration of electrolyte and emulsifying agent, and ratio of water phase. Among these factors, we focused on the effects of different structures of emulsifying agents on the change of stability. Emulsifying agents were sorted into polyglyceryl ester, silicone and sugar series. We also examined the emulsifyingability of emulsifier by changing the ratio of normal and silicon oil in the oil phase. Through these experimental results, we figured out the property of w/o emulsion depending on the types of emulsifiers, and observed the stability of emulsion considering the change of particles and viscosity over time.

Pre-clinical Screening Methods for Evaluating Anti-wrinkle Effect

  • Cho Moon Kyun
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.29 no.2 s.43
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    • pp.37-65
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    • 2003
  • Nowadays, we find out new anti-wrinkle-care-ingredients by in vitro searching methods using many kind of cell-culture-models for investigation of the effective anti-wrinkle-care-ingredients. But, theses new ingredients don't have effect on the human-model for anti-wrinkle, not likely on in vitro. In other words, there are so many differences between the effects on in vitro models and the clinical human models, practically. But, we actually have difficulty in putting all of the new anti-wrinkle-care-ingredients to the test on human models directly. To solve this problem, we have investigated that by using the artificial skin-culture-model or the animal model, In this lecture I will review the detail of assessment method far evaluation of anti-wrinkle agents in vitro and animal model and discuss the pros and cons of each method. Then I will present the results of Preclinical Screening trials, And especially animal model may be a good candidate for evaluation of anti-wrinkle agents.

Reliability of In Vitro Assay for Initial Depigmenting Agent Screening (미백제 선발을 위한 In Vitro 측정법의 신뢰도)

  • Nguyen, Dung H.;Nguyen, Duc T.M.;La, Lyun Hwa;Lee, Hyang-Bok;Shin, Jung-Hyun;Kim, Eun-Ki
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.34 no.3
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    • pp.183-188
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    • 2008
  • Initial screening assay for depigmenting agents includes in vitro mushroom tyrosinase assay and antioxidant assay. Based on this screening result, melanin synthesis in melanocyte, in screened samples, is further measured. Measuring cellular melanin needs time, human resource, and skills. Therefore initial screening method should be reliable. We examined, 34 Chinese herbs, correlated the screening assay methods with cellular melanin. No reliable relationship was observed between factors, indicating the limitation in the use of these assays, probably due to the complexicity of melanogenesis.

A Study on Factors Affecting the Effect of Blue Light Blocking in Sunscreen (자외선 차단제품에서 블루라이트 차단 효과에 영향을 주는 인자에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Soo Jin;Kwak, Byeong Mun;Lee, Mi Gi;Bin, Bum Ho
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.46 no.4
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    • pp.383-390
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    • 2020
  • Blue light is a blue-based light existing at a wavelength between 380 and 450 nm, and it has been reported that it induces active oxygen and causes aging, and accordingly, interest in the blue light blocking effect is increasing. In this study, the effects of the polarity of oil, viscosity of the formulation, type of emulsifier, emulsified particles, and inorganic UV blocking agents on the blue light blocking effect in UV blocking products were investigated. As a result, it was confirmed that the blue light blocking rate increased as the polarity of the oil became similar to that of the organic UV blocker, and the higher the viscosity of the formulation, the higher the blue light blocking rate. The types of emulsifiers and emulsified particles had little effect on the blue light blocking effect, and the presence of inorganic UV blocking agents was found to be one of the factors that greatly influenced the blue light blocking rate. These results can effectively increase the efficiency of blocking blue light, and may be used in the development of blue light blocking products and formulation research in the future.

Efficacy Evaluation of Anti-wrinkle Products in Japan

  • Masaki Hitoshi
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.29 no.2 s.43
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    • pp.67-77
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    • 2003
  • Two categories of cosmetic products, cosmetics and quasi-drugs, have been established by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare (MHLW) in Japan. Japanese pharmaceutical law has defined that products categorized as cosmetics do not exhibit any effects on human skin. In fact, cosmetic products are not permitted to claim any efficacy. On the other hand, products in the quasi-drug category can claim several efficacies such as anti-inflammatory effects, whitening/lightning effects, hair growth effects and so on. Unfortunately, the Japanese MHLW has not yet approved the efficacy of anti-aging/anti-wrinkle effects as a claim point. However, the population is aging, and the demand for anti-aging/anti-wrinkle products is increasing year by year. Japanese cosmetic companies have proposed to the MHLW that anti-aging/anti-wrinkle agents be approved as a claim concept of a quasi-drug. However, unified evaluation methods for anti-aging/anti-wrinkle effects have not been established. Currently, each company evaluates the efficacy of products/materials using their own original methods. Thus, to request approval of the MHLW, the establishment of a unified evaluation method is needed. Consequently, the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) has established a task force to develop guidelines for evaluating anti-wrinkle effects in 1998. In conclusion, the JCIA would like to adopt visual and image analysis scales to evaluate the anti-wrinkle effects objectively. Generally, wrinkles are roughly classified into three groups as fine wrinkles, linear deep wrinkles and crow's feet. However, academic societies of dermatology or cosmetics have not yet established a definition of wrinkles in Japan. Thus, in advance of setting up an evaluation method, the definition of wrinkles f3r evaluation must be decided. Wrinkles are defined by the task force of the JCIA as follows; furrows that people can recognize visually and that appear on the forehead, the corners of the eyes and the backs of the neck with aging. In addition, furrows are emphasized by exposure to solar light and by dry conditions. Visual evaluation is the most sensitive method and can be applied to most types of wrinkles. However, visual evaluation is hard to express digitally as results. Besides, in the case of image analysis, comparisons of data obtained from distinct examinations can not be done, because data from image analysis are relative values. Thus, to enhance the reliability of the evaluations, the adoption of an objective scale was required. The principle of the evaluation method is to analyze images taken from silicone replicas of wrinkle areas using several parameters, such as the proportion of the wrinkle $area({\%})$, the mean depth of the wrinkles (mm), the mean depth of the deepest wrinkle (m) and the deepest point on the deepest wrinkle. Lights are shown on the skin replica from an orthogonal direction of the main orientation of the wrinkle, and the resulting shadow images are quantified by the image analysis method. To increase the precision of the data or to allow comparisons of independent examinations, a scale with furrows of several depths, 200, 400, 600, 800, and $1000{\mu}m$, is adapted in the evaluation system. I will explain the guidelines established by the JCIA in the presentation.

Antioxidative Properties and Whitening Effects of the Astragali Radix, Atractylodis Rhizoma Alba and Acanthopanacis Cortex (황기, 백출 및 오가피의 항산화성 및 미백효과에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Il-Chool;Hur, Sang-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.110-116
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    • 2009
  • In an attempt to find natural sources of antioxidants and whitening agents, Comparisons of the antioxidative and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of various ethanol extracts of Astragali Radix, Atractylodis Rhizoma Alba and Acanthopanacis Cortex were carried out. Comparison of the four ethanol extracts revealed that, Astragali Radix had the highest electron-donating ability(72.5%) and the highest SOD-like ability(26.1%). The xanthine oxidase experiment exhibited a hindrance effect of 88.5% in Atractylodis Rhizoma Alba, 81.1% in Acanthopanacis Cortex, 75.8% in Astragali Radix. A tyrosinase inhibitory activity assay was conducted to evaluate the whitening effects of the extracts, The tyrosinase inhibitory activity was 42.1% in the Acanthopanacis Cortex, 37.2% in the Atractylodis Rhizoma Alba, 6.0% in the Astragali Radix. Based on these results, we suggest that the ethanol extracts of Astragali Radix, Atractylodis Rhizoma Alba and Acanthopanacis Cortex can be used as food and cosmetic ingredients.

Antioxidative Properties and Whitening Effects of the Cuscutae Semen, Rubi Fructus and Paeoniae Radix (토사자, 복분자 및 작약의 항산화성 및 미백효과에 관한 연구)

  • Hur, Sang-Sun;Kim, Il-Chool
    • Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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    • v.31 no.1
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    • pp.136-142
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    • 2014
  • In an attempt to find natural sources of antioxidants and whitening agents, comparisons of the antioxidative and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of various ethanol extracts of Cuscutae Semen, Rubi Fructus and Paeoniae Radix were carried out. Comparison of the three ethanol extracts revealed that, Paeoniae Radix had the highest electron-donating ability(79.3%),; however, Rubi Fructus had the highest SOD-like ability(31.1%). The xanthine oxidase experiment exhibited a hindrance effect of 74.3% in Cuscutae Semen, 80.4% in Rubi Fructus and 60.8% in Paeoniae Radix. A tyrosinase inhibitory activity assay was conducted to evaluate the whitening effects of the extracts, The tyrosinase inhibitory activity was 20.1% in the Cuscutae Semen, 54.2% in the Rubi Fructus, 56.3% in the Paeoniae Radix. Based on these results, we suggest that the ethanol extracts of Cuscutae Semen, Rubi Fructus and Paeoniae Radix can be used as food and cosmetic ingredients.

Anthocyanin Analysis of Pressure-extracted Korean Blueberry Juice and in vitro Anti-inflammatory in RAW267.4 Cell line (국산 블루베리 착즙액의 안토시아닌 분석 및 RAW267.4 세포주에서의 항염효과)

  • Choi, Moon-Hee;Jeon, Young-Jin;Shin, Hyun-Jae
    • KSBB Journal
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    • v.30 no.4
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    • pp.191-196
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    • 2015
  • Blueberry juice possesses rich-procyanidins and - anthocyanidin, comprised a group of with numerous health benefits such as protection against coronary heart disease, detoxification, and obesity. Blueberry (Vaccinium virgatum) juice extracts were analyzed and separated by an HPLC method for the purpose of the separation and quantification in polyphenolic groups. In specific HPLC conditions, a binary mobile phase consisting of formic acid: water (10:90, v/v, solvent A) and formic acid: water: acetonitrile (10:60:30, v/v/v, solvent B) was utilized and it is detected at 546 nm wavelength. The phenolic contents of the extracts are determined using Folin-Ciocalteu phenol reagent. In order to test anti-inflammation activity assay, after producing nitric oxide (NO) in lipopolysaccharide activated RAW 264.7 cells, at concentration of $20-500{\mu}g/mL$ it reduced to NO production at a dose-dependent manner. Importantly, cytotoxicity assay with up to $500{\mu}g/mL$ of the extract from blueberry juice showed ~100% cell viability for RAW264.7 cell line. Therefore, Korean blueberry juice might have potential as anti-oxidant and antiinflammation agents.

Development of an In Vitro Pigmented Skin Model to Evaluate the Effectiveness of Whitening Functional Cosmetic Ingredients (미백 기능성 화장품 원료의 유효성 평가를 위한 In Vitro 색소화피부모델 개발)

  • Kim, Seolyeong;Lee, Geonhee;Gwak, Eun Ji;Kim, Su Ji;Lee, Su Hyon;Lim, Kyung-Min
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.47 no.4
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    • pp.297-304
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    • 2021
  • In this study, we prepared a pigmented skin model, KeraSkin-MTM for the in vitro evaluation of whitening agents. For the purpose of complementing the existing mono-layer cell culture testing method, KeraSkin-MTM was produced through the co-culture of human skin-derived keratinocytes and melanocytes. The efficacy of four well-known whitening agents (arbutin, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide) was evaluated in KeraSkin-MTM in order to assess its usefulness in assessing whitening efficacy. As a result, it was possible to observe additional details such as the distribution of melanin granules and melanin capping in each skin layer through KeraSkin-MTM, which was previously difficult to assess in the traditional 2D cell culture system. In addition, quantification through image analysis of KeraSkin-MTM allowed for a statistical analysis of the whitening effects. These results suggest that the KeraSkin-MTM can be used as a new evaluation method of evaluating whitening efficacy, as well as complement the traditional total melanin content and tyrosinase inhibition assays.

Stability of Water-in-Oil Emulsion by Gelation;Application of Sun-Block Cream containing Titanium Dioxide($TiO_{2}$) (겔화에 의한 Water-in-Oil에멀젼의 안정성;이산화티타늄($TiO_{2}$)이 함유된 Sun-block Cream의 응용)

  • Kim, In-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.67-75
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    • 2000
  • Cosmetic industries have recently developed sun-block products, which are composed of W/O or O/W emulsion system. It was very difficult for waterproofing product to show the stability in W/O emulsion with $TiO_{2}$. To enhance the stability of W/O emulsion, it needs to be combined with the water and oil soluble components as the gelling agents. The emulsifiers used in W/O were 3.0% of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, 2.0% of sorbitan sesquioleate as the basic emulsifiers, and 0.6% of quaternium-18 bentonite and 1.5% of dextrin palmitate as stabilizer were used. The content of titanium dioxide was optimized up to 8.0%. Titanium dioxide was used as the UV scattering powder coated with $Al_{2}O_{3}$(UV-sperse T40/TN). The sunscreen cream prepared with W/O emulsion system by using QB and DP showed higher stability than that of W/O emulsion system by using each QB and DP. W/O emulsion from Formula 3 for passing one year was very durable more than F1 and F2. Within W/O emulsion by observing F1, F2 and F3 for one year, F3 was more excellent than F2 and F3 when they were observed at RT, $4^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, because F3 used the mixed QB and DP in W/O emulsion. The zeta potential for F1, F2, and F3 after one year were 21, 30 and 43, respectively. From these result F3 was found best stable emulsion. The in-vitro SPF value for F3 was 35 for the initial product at room temperature and also, the in-vitro SPF values of F3 was 32 for after one year. Finally, the mean in-vivo SPF value of 10 volunteers for F3 was 27.3 by the Korea cosmetic association made the rules of SPF.