• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.269-278
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• 2016

In searching for novel agents for skin anti-aging from natural resources, we found that the extract of the fruiting bodies of Ramaria formosa (R. formosa) had significant antioxidant and human neutrophil elastase (HNE) inhibitory activities. R. formosa extract exhibited a considerable DPPH radical scavenging activity with an antioxidant content of 117.0mg/mL (ascorbic acid equivalents) at the concentration of $500{\mu}g/mL$. The capacity of R. formosa extract to scavenge peroxy radicals measured by ORAC assay also showed dose-dependent antioxidant effect with $ORAC_{Roo}$ (trolox equivalents, $1{\mu}M$) values of 0.8, 5.2, and 7.8 at the concentrations of 1, 10, and $20{\mu}g/mL$. The cellular antioxidant capacity of R. formosa extract was investigated by assaying the cellular fluorescence intensity using dichlorodihydrofluorescein (DCF). The cellular oxidative stress induced by AAPH, $Cu^{2+}$ or $H_2O_2$ in HepG2 cells was significantly attenuated by more than 30% at $20{\mu}g/mL$ of R. formosa extract. HNE activity was reduced by treatment with R. formosa extract in a dose-dependent manner, and the $ED_{50}$ value for the ethanol extract of R. formosa was $42.9{\mu}g/mL$. R. formosa extract did not exhibited antimicrobial activity against four microorganisms including Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis), Escherichia coli (E. coli), Candida albicans (C. albicans), Aspergillus oryzae (A. oryzae). Furthermore, the extract did not affect the inflammatory cytokine production of interleukin-10 and interferon-${\gamma}$ in NK92 cells. From the above results, we found that R. formosa extract has considerable antioxidant and elastase inhibitory effects, and does not stimulate immune cells. These findings suggest that R. formosa extract may be used as a bioactive component in cosmetic composition.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2020

This study was performed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory activities of 70% ethanol extract from Ambrosia trifida L. (AT). The electron donating ability and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability of extract from AT was shown to be 84.1% and 92.5% at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration. The astringent effect of extract from AT was shown to be 94.7% at 1,000 ㎍/ml. The anti- inflammatory activities of extract of AT were investigated using RAW 264.7 cells induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS). The cell toxicity effect of AT extract on RAW 264.7 performed MTT assay. As a result of the measured cell toxicity effect, 90% or more was shown with cell viability at a 500 ㎍/ml concentration. In nitric oxide synthesis inhibition effect, it was shown that extract from AT concentration dependent inhibited nitric oxide production. The protein expression inhibitory effect of AT extract was measured by western blot at 25, 50, and 100 ㎍/ml concentration and the β-actin used as a positive control. Consequently, the inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), cyclooxygenase (COX)-2 protein expression inhibitory effect was decreased by 8.6%, 25.1% at 100 ㎍/ml concentration. The phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase 1/2, p38, c-Jun NH₂-terminal kinase and Iκ-Bα protein expression inhibitory effect was a decreased dependent concentration. The mRNA expression inhibitory effect was measured by reverse transcription - polymerase chain reaction at 25, 50, and 100 ㎍/ml concentration and the glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase used as a positive control. Consequently, the iNOS, COX-2, interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6 and tumor necrosis factor-α mRNA expression inhibition effect was a decreased dependent concentration in an LPS-activated macrophage. In conclusion, AT extract may have some effects on inflammatory factors as potential anti-inflammatory agents and natural substance for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.211-218
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• 2018

Instant face lifting cosmetics contain various film forming agents for stretching the wrinkles on the skin surface. But, most of the film-forming polymers have sticky feels. And they are easily scrubbed out when skin is rubbed on. In this study, we focused on the influence of sodium silicate that has rapid film forming effect on skin surface and immediate wrinkle reducing effect. Sodium silicate, also known as water glass or soluble glass, is a compound containing sodium oxide and silica. Sodium silicate is a white powder that is readily soluble in water, producing an alkaline solution. Sodium silicate is stable in neutral and alkaline solutions. The sodium silicate solution hardens by drying in air and rapidly forms a thin film. When the solution is applied to the skin, the fine membrane coating is formed by water evaporation and ionic bond re-formation. It also makes the strong siloxane (Si-O) bonding on the skin surface. When these fixation properties are applied to cosmetics, they can give remarkable skin tightening effect. The sodium silicate solution can provide the lifting effect by forming a film on skin at a proper concentration. But, skin irritation may be caused with too high concentration of sodium silicate. We studied a desirable range of the sodium silicate concentration and combination with other fixatives for skin care formulation that has no sticky feels and no scrubbing out phenomenon. Immediate lifting gel was developed by using sodium silicate and various thickening systems. Among of the various thickeners, aluminum magnesium silicate showed the best compatibility with sodium silicate for rapid lifting effect. This instant physical lifting gel was confirmed as a low stimulating formula by skin clinical test.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.295-305
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• 2020

Treatment for beauty using oxidizing agents damages hair with inducing structural alteration in cuticle layer, degradation of protein, and loss of lipid. This study connects a frictional coefficient upon the damaged hair by an instrumental test to the texture test by human being, and considered a moisture as a factor of the damage. A friction coefficient has been measured upon the hair with successive treatment of dye, perm, and bleach. The friction coefficient from the hair dye-treated three times was defined with 0.60, where 58% of answerer indicated an initial damage point as the hairs of iteration of dye-treatment increased. Even bleach treated three times results in 0.84 of friction coefficient corresponding to 88% of answerer attributed the hair to an initially damaged hair. In order to figure out a lipid loss in hair for human being to respond damage, a friction coefficient of the hair was controlled by removing 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA). The initial damage has been recognized by 0.60 of the friction coefficient for the 68% of answerer. Since moisture is the largest portion of the components in hair, moisture analysis has been performed to study a relationship between texture of damage and the friction coefficient from an instrumental evaluation. As an iteration of dye increases, the hair became hydrophilic with smaller contact angle. It is found that a damaged hair by dyeing possessed more than 0.42% of moisture compared to a healthy hair. Finally, it is elucidated that an increase of moisture in hair induced higher adhesive force corresponding to the friction coefficient, and the friction coefficient above 0.6 is attributed to the preception of hair damage.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.522-527
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• 2008

Low molecular peptides were isolated from Asterias amurensis via SDS-PAGE. The peptides were separated via consecutive gel filtration as five fractions (F1-F5) according to molecular weights, based on the results of MALDI-TOF MS analysis. The molecular weight of the most active peptide was estimated as 15,000 daltons. The peptide showed cytotoxicity on normal human fibroblast cells at levels as low as 20% when 1.0 mg/mL of the samples was added. The peptide also exhibited higher levels of nitric oxide production from macrophages than the lipopolysaccaharides. It was determined that prostaglendin $E_2$ production was significantly inhibited, up to 127.8% as compared to the control. The low molecular peptide inhibited hyaluronidase activity as 535.7 ${\mu}g/mL$ of $IC_{50}$. It can be concluded that the relatively low molecular weight peptide, fucoidan, from A. amurensis has excellent cosmetic and immunomodulatory activities, which can be considered as a possible resource of new cosmetic agents for skin immunomodulation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.205-232
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• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1 mg/ml UA or 0.1-1 mg/ml ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) was measured . The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1 mg/ml UA and 0.5 mg/ml ONA) at 6 h more than $20\%$ compared to vehicle treated group (p<0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/ml per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from f week without TEWL alteration (p<0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent $(ONA{\geq}UA>Vehicle)$. LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>Veh). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via $PPAR\;\alpha$. Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either $ONA\;(10{\mu}M)$ or UA $(10{\mu}M)$ for 24h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via $PPAR\;{\alpha}$. Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.199-210
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• 2011

This study was conducted to develop functional sources of herbal cosmetics for treatment of skin aging and inflammatory disorders using volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions including Cnidium officinale Makino (COM), Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN), Mentha arvense L. (MAL), Artemisiae argyi Folium (AAF), Paeonia lactiflora Pall (PLP), Rehmanniae Radix Preparata (RRP), Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi (SBG), Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer (PGM), Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch (GUF). The volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions (HH-1: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, HH-2: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, SBG, PGM, GUF, HH-3: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, HH-4: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, SBG, PGM, GUF) were extracted using SDE and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects were measured by using DPPH radical and SLO, respectively. As a result, HH-2 showed moderate DPPH radical scavenging activity (68.24 %) and the strongest SLO inhibitory activity (83.96 %) at 100 ${\mu}g$/mL. Moreover, HH-2 of four different prescriptions significantly inhibited NO production on LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells in a dose-dependent manner without considerable cell cytotoxicity at range of 2.0 ~ 50 ${\mu}g$/mL. Additionally, HH-2 also effectively suppressed the production of $PGE_2$ and IL-6, which are responsible for promoting the inflammatory process. Major volatile components of HH-2 were identified as eugenol, paeonol, butyl phthalide, ${\beta}$-eudesmol and butylidene dihydrophthalide by GC-MS analysis. Thus, these results suggest that HH-2 may be useful as a potential source of anti-inflammatory agents in herbal medicinal cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.65-72
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• 2009

Skin aging appears to be principally attributed to a decrease in both levels of Type I collagen and regeneration ability of dermal fibroblasts. It is important to introduce an efficient and safe agent for effective management of skin aging. To this end, we performed screening for anti-ageing agents and then found that vegetable peptones (pea and wheat) promoted cell proliferation of adult stem cells. Vegetable peptones may be considered as useful medium additives because it can supply nutrients, peptides, amino acids or growth factor analogues. This study was designed to investigate effects of vegetable peptones on cell proliferation/collagen production and their possible mechanisms in human dermal fibroblasts. In cell proliferation assay, vegetable peptones significantly promoted cell proliferation in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, human COL1A2 promoter luciferase and type I procollagen synthesis assays showed that vegetable peptones induce type I procollagen production through the activation of COLlA2 promoter. In both TGF-${\beta}1$ luciferase reporter and ELISA assays, vegetable peptones was found to induce TGF-${\beta}1$ production, suggesting that vegetable peptones induce type I procollagen production through the activation of TGF-${\beta}1$. When applied topically in a human skin twice a day for an 4-week period of time, vegetable peptones did not induce any adverse reactions. Theretore, based on these results, we suggest the possibility that vegetable peptones may be considered as an attractive, wrinkle-reducing candidate for topical application.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.57-63
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• 2010

To develop natural therapeutic agents for acne vulgaris, we investigated antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of various medicinal plant extracts. Among candidate extracts, we selected Psoralea corylifolia L. extract (AC-1) and Magnoliae officinalis extract (AC-2) which showed the relatively high antibacterial effects, and Inula helenium L. extract (ACF-1) and Chrysanthemum zawadskii var. latilobum extract (ACF-2) which showed the relatively high anti-inflammatory effects for further investigations. All of them did not show cytotoxic effects below the concentration of $50{\mu}g/mL$. The antibacterial effects of AC-1, AC-2 and extract complex (AC) against P. acnes were 2.8, 2.5 and 3.2 times higher than that of 10 % salicylic acid respectively. And the antibacterial effect of AC-2 and extract complex against S. aureus were 1.4 and 1.5 times higher than that of 10 % methylparaben respectively. Also, it was shown that ACF-1, ACF-2 and extract complex had anti-inflammatory effects. All of them exhibited inhibitory effects for the secretion of IL-8 and TNF-$\alpha$ from THP-1 cells activated by heat-killed P. acnes. They reduced about 27 %, 38 %, 44 % of IL-8 secretion and 90 %, 88 %, 90 % of TNF-$\alpha$ secretion at concentration of $50{\mu}g/mL$ respectively. These results showed that the complex of medicinal plant extracts, AC-1. AC-2, ACF-1, and ACF-2, had therapeutic effects to acne vulgaris through antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, we suggest that extract complex of AC-1, AC-2, ACF-1 and ACF-2 may be used as a useful agent for development of natural cosmetics which have therapeutic effects to acne vulgaris.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.9 no.8
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• pp.225-233
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• 2018

The Ulmus davidiana have been used in traditional oriental medicine as remedies for inflammation, ulcers, cancers, bacterial infections and scabies. In this study, the anti-fungal, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory activitiesof a supercritical extract of U. davidiana were investigated in vitro. To explore the anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory characteristics of the supercritical extract, ABTS radical scavenging activity, and the inhibition of nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells were examined, respectively. In addition, the anti-fungal activities of the extract were assessed. The results showed a concentration-dependent increase in ABTS radical scavenging activity. Cells stimulated with LPS produced more nitric oxide than normal control cells; however, cells treated with the supercritical fluid extract decreased this production in a concentration-dependent manner. Finally, the supercritical fluid extracts showed significant anti-fungal activity. These results suggest that extracts of the U. davidiana might be used to develop potent anti-fungal, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory agents, and may be useful as ingredients for related new functional cosmetic materials.