• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.271-280
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• 2010

Ultraviolet radiation (UV) is a major cause of photodamages to human skin and the immediate responses of the skin to UV include the erythema and edema. In an attempt to find effective UV-protecting agents to be used in cosmetics, a number of plant extracts were screened in the cell-based assays. Among the total of 38 plant extracts tested, 3 plant extracts derived from Sasa quelpaertensis, Althaea rosea, and Dryopteris crassirhizoma attenuated the UVB-induced cytotoxicity as well as melanin synthesis in cultured human epidermal melanocytes. The anti-inflammatory effects of these plant extracts were further examined in animal models. A control or test cream containing 1% of a plant extract was topically applied to ears of a C57BL/6 mouse or the dorsal skin of a SKH-1 hafirless mouse before and after the exposure to UVB. The change in ear thickness or dorsal skin redness due to UVB exposure was determined to monitor edema and erythema, respectively. All three test creams exhibited anti-inflammatory effects in both experiments. The creams containing Sasa quelpaertensis, Althaea rosea or Dryopteris crassirhizoma extract alleviated the UVB-induced edema response on day 4 by 53.8 %, 56.4 % and 31.1 %, respectively. They also inhibited the erythema formation on day 2 by 45.7 %, 34.1 % and 20.5 %, respectively. This study suggests that the selected plant extracts formulated in cosmetics may attenuate skin inflammation caused by overexposure to UV.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.149-155
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• 2017

This study was carried out to investigate the hair protection effect of fermented black soybean extracts. The morphological characteristics, tensile strength and constitutional changes of the hair were analyzed and compared when the hair was chemically oxidized and then treated with fermented black soybean extract. As a result, treatment of oxidizing agent on virgin hair caused damage on the cuticle layer of the epidermis and decreased in tensile strength of hair from $14.32{\pm}0.83g/cm^2$ to $12.32{\pm}0.79g/cm^2$. FT-IR analysis showed the peaks at 1,077, 1,041, and $801cm^{-1}$ of the hair treated with oxidizing agent were increased compared to peak values of virgin hair, indicating that cystein in hair was decreased which is crucial to disulfide bond between keratin. On the other hand, when the damaged hair is treated with the fermented black soybean extract, cracks in the cuticle layer of the epidermis were filled, tensile strength was restored to $14.27{\pm}0.96g/cm^2$ and the ratio of oxidized cysteine in hair was decreased. These results suggest that the fermented black soybean extract is worthy of further investigation as a protective material for hair damaged by oxidizing agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.195-204
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of 14 Chung-bu medicinal materials described in the Dongui Bogam on inflammatory cytokine production in HaCaT human keratinocyte cells. In order to confirm this possibility, we screened inhibition activity of 17 cytokines using Bio-Plex Pro^TM Human Cytokine 17-plex assay in HaCaT cell lines. Of the 14 Chung-bu medicinal materials, Holotrichia (Ho) and Scorpio (Sc) exerted inhibitory effects on interleukin (IL)-5 production; Ho, Mantidis Ootheca (MO), and Hirudo (Hi) exerted inhibitory effects on IL-6 production; Ho, MO, Lumbricus (Lu), Hi, and Meretricis Concha (MC) showed significant inhibitory effects on IL-8 production; Gecko (Ge), Bombycis Faeces (BF), Cicadidae Periostracum (CP), and MC showed significant inhibitory effects on IL-13 production; and Testudinis Chinemis Plastrum et Carapax (TCPC), BF, and Lu exerted significant inhibitory effects on MIP-1β production. Results indicated that the Chung-bu medicinal materials might be a good candicate as potential anti-inflammatory agents for inhibition of skin inflammation. However, further investigations on these materials, including mechanistic studies, should be carried out to validated the effects in human skin equivalent models of dermatitis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.419-426
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• 2004

The nano-ceramide capsulation is a technique that capsulates ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate at the mono-vesicle to act on the horny layer in skin. In this technique, $0.5{\~}5.0\;wt\%$ of hydrogenated lecithin and $0.01{\~}2.00\;wt\%$ of lysolecithin are used as the membrane-strengthen agents of the mono-vesicle and $5.0{\~}10.0\;wt\%$ of propylene glycol and $5.0{\~}10.0\;wt\%$ of ethyl alcohol are used as solvents. Active ingredients such ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate are utilized to enhance the moisturizing efficacy and treat atopy skin. These materials do not contain synthetic emulsifiers. The optimal conditions or nano-ceramide capsulation are such that particles pass Microfludizdizer 3 times at 1,000 bar and $60{\~}70^{\circ}C$ and pH of nano capsules is $5.8{\pm}0.5.$ The average size of particles is $63.1{\pm}7.34\;nm$ showing lucid state like water by the laser light scattering. A zeta potential value is $-55.1\pm0.84\;mV.$ Through clinical tests, the moisturizing effect (in-vivo, n=8, p-value<0.05) showed $21.15\%$ of improvement comparison to comparison-samples and $36.31\%$ of improvement compared to the state before treatment. Moreover, the effectiveness of atopy skin showed positive reaction from 10 volunteers.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.108-109
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• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol, prunol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ON A are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepatoprotective, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. To clarify the effects of UA and ONA on skin barrier recovery, both flank skin of 8-12 weeks hairless mice were topically treated with samples (2mg/ml) after tape stripping, then measured recovery rate using TEWL on hairless mice. The recovery rate increased in UA and ONA treated groups at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p <0.05). For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/ml per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to Vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p<0.005). EM examination using Ru04 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA$\geq$UA>Vehicle). LM finding showed that stratum corneum was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>Vehicle). Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber increasing by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory experiments were also confirmed in vivo findings. This result suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only skin barrier but also collagen and elastic fibers. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve barrier function and pertinent agents for cosmetic applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.143-149
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• 2009

Several hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives, p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, N,N'-dicoumaroylputrescine (DCP), N-p-coumaroyl-N'-feruloyl-putrescine (CFP), and N,N'-diferuloylputrescine (DFP) were isolated and purified from corn bran. To develop the skin whitening agent, we investigated the effects of hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives from corn bran, on melanogenesis. CFP and DFP inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner up to 44.7 ${\pm}$ 6.0 %, and 58.5 ${\pm}$ 3.1 % at a concentration of 50 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The intracellular tyrosinase activity decreased about 42.5 ${\pm}$ 14.6 %, and 9.0 ${\pm}$ 4.4 % at a concentration of 50 ${\mu}g/mL$ of CFP and DFP, respectively. Our results suggest that inhibitory effects of hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives on melanogenesis are due to the inhibition of the intracellular tyrosinase activity. These results indicate that these hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives from corn bran may be potential natural skin whitening agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.173-180
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• 2015

In the present study, antioxidant activities and tyrosinase inhibition of Perilla frutescens, Houttuynia cordata and Camellia sinensis extracts and the extract mixtures (PHC) were investigated. PHC showed 80.2% and 98.0% of free radical scavenging activity in DPPH and ABTS analysis, respectively, and 50% tyrosinase inhibition in $1000{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. HaCaT cells did not show cell toxicity in $100{\mu}g/mL$ of the PHC. Furthermore, HaCaT cell viability by co-culture with extract H. cordata was increased more than 10% compared with untreated cells. However, the cell viability was decreased in $500{\mu}g/mL$ of the extract C. sinensis and the PHC. These results suggested that about $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration of the PHC showed proper tyrosinase inhibitory effect and antioxidant activities. The PHC could be used as multifunctional cosmeceutical agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2015

Until recently, the three conventional evaluation methods, which are instrumental (Chromameter$^{(R)}$ CR-400 and Mexameter$^{(R)}$ M18) and visual assessments have been used frequently for skin color evaluation. However, we took notice the potential of image analysis as a new tool to evaluate color change of skin. To reveal the reliability of the image analysis for the evaluation of whitening agents, 34 healthy female volunteers with hyperpigmentation were recruited, and the selected volunteers applied the whitening products containing Vitamin C twice a day in the morning and evening and received iontophoresis treatments once a week for 8 weeks. The changes in hyperpigmentation evaluated by Chromameter$^{(R)}$, Mexameter$^{(R)}$ and visual assessment were compared with the results from the image analysis. As with $L^*$ value trends of the analysis using Chromameter$^{(R)}$, the V value from the image analysis increased after applying the test products compared with baseline values. Furthermore, V value showed a positive correlation with $L^*$ value (r = 0.494, p < 0.01) and negative correlation with MI (r = - 0.683, p < 0.01) and VG (r = - 0.549, p < 0.01). Therefore, image analysis may be considered as an effective method to complement the limitations of visual assessment for whitening efficacy in Asians.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.159-166
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• 2013

In order to develop new skin whitening agents, we prepared the EtOAc layer (AJE) after enzyme treatment of 75% EtOH extract of the Alnus Japonica Steud. We measured their tyrosinase inhibitory activity in vitro and melanin synthesis inhibitory activity in B16-F1 melanoma cells. They did not show inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase but showed melanin synthesis inhibitory activity in a dose-dependent manner. In a melanin synthesis inhibition assay, AJE suppressed melanin production up to 52% at a concentration of $40{\mu}g/mL$. To elucidate the mechanism of the inhibitory effects of AJE on melanogenesis, we measured expression of melanogenesis-related proteins by the western blot assay. As a result, AJE suppressed the expression of tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1) and microphthalmia associated transcription factor (MITF). Moreover, AJE increased the expression of phosphorylated extracellular signal-regulated kinase (p-ERK). These results conclude that ERK activation by AJE reduces melanin synthesis via MITF downregulation and is subsequent to the inhibition of TRP-1 expression. Therefore, we suggest that AJE could be used as active ingredients for skin whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.25-33
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• 2005

Melanocytes synthesize melanin within discrete organelle termed melanosomes which are transferred to the surrounding keratinocytes and can be produced in varying sizes, numbers and densities. Skin whitening products have become increasingly popular in the past few years. The most successful natural skin whitening agents are: arbutin, vitamin C, kojic acid, and mulberry, which are all tyrosinase inhibitors. In this work, melanoston, a melanogenesis inhibitor isolated from yeast was studied to understand its mechanism of melanogenesis inhibition. It was found that melanoston was not a tyrosinase inhibitor, while when melanoston was applied to the B16 melanoma cell culture media, the intracellular tyrosinase activity was decreased by more than $30\%$. When B16 melanoma was stimulated with $\alpha$-MSH, cell morphololgy was dramatically changed to have lots of dendrites on the cell membrane surface. On the other hand, B16 was treated with $\alpha$-MSH and melanoston, simultaneously, the change of cell morphologv was not so great. This inhibitory effect of melanoston was found to be related to the inhibition of intracellar activation and transportation of tyrosinase, which was observed by irmmunostaining of B16 melanoma using anti-tyrosinase antibody. From these results, melanoston was regarded as an inhibitor to the differentiation of melanoma cells.