• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.205-213
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• 2013

This study was to improve cosmetical activity of thiamine di-lauryl sulfate (TDS) by encapsulation of nanoparticle with lecithin. Results showed that most of the nanoparticles containing the TDS were well formed in round shape with below 150 ~ 200 nm diameter as well as they were fairly stable in various pH ranges by measuring zeta potentials. The nanoparticles of TDS resulted in 85% cell viability of human normal fibroblast cells (CCD-986sk) when added at the highest concentration (1.0 mg/mL). The nanoparticles of Acer mono sap showed highest free radical scavengering effect as 88.1% in adding sample (1.0 mg/mL), compared to TDS solution of non-encapsulation (81.6%). The nanoparticles of TDS reduced the expression of MMP-1 on UV-irradiated CCD-986sk cells down to as 41.4%. The TDS solution and nanoparticles showed significant anti-microbial activities agaionst the salmonella typhimurium and listeria monocytogenes at 5 and 6 days as compared with control. Anti-microbial activities of TDS nanoparticles were similar to positive control. These results indicated that TDS nanoparticles may be a source for functional cosmetic agents capable of improving cosmetical activity such as antioxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkling effects and can be further developed as natural preservative in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.235-245
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• 2016

In this study, we examined the effects of various molecular weights (1, 10, 50, 100, 660, and 1500 kDa) of sodium hyaluronate (HA), which were prepared by enzyme hydrolysis, on the collagen synthesis, anti-inflammation and skin absorption. These HA did not significantly affect the viability of human dermal fibroblast Hs68 cells. Among them, 1500 kDa, 50 kDa HA most significantly increased collagen production by 59%, and 50% in the Hs 68 cells, respectively. Whereas 1500 and 660 kDa HA hardly pass through mouse transdermis membrane, lower molecular weights (1, 10, or 50 kDa) of HA showed time-dependent increase in skin permeation. HA of 50 kDa showed highest anti-inflammatory effects by reducing nitric oxide and tumor necrosis factor-${alpha}$ production in the RAW 264.7 cells, comparing to other HA (1, 10, and 100 kDa HA). Recently, there is no report about anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects and skin permeation of different molecular weights HA (1, 10, 50, 100, 660 and 1500 kDa), which were produced by enzyme hydrolysis. These results suggested that 50 kDa HA can be potent candidates for the development of effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cosmetic agents. The results of this study demonstrated that among those HA with different molecular weights, 50 kDa HA showed highest anti-inflammatory activity, significant capability to induce collagen synthesis and high level of skin permeation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.91-96
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• 2005

Holographic quantitative structure-toxicity relationships (HQSTR) of alkyl-3,4-dihydroxybenzoate (A) and N-alkyl-3,4-dihydroxybenzamide (B) derivatives were analyzed and discussed. The HQSTR model X for the skin sensitivity showed the best predictability based on the cross-validated $r^2_{cv}.$ ($q^2 = 0.744$), non cross-validated, and conventional coefficient ($r^2_{ncv}.$=0.978). The relationships between melanogenesis inhibitory activities and skin sensitization of compounds have a tendency to a reciprocal proportion. Therefore, the more higher melanogenesis inhibitory activities of compounds were, the more lower skin sensitization of compounds became. The side chain, C1 ${\~}$ C3 part of R1-substituents in (A) and (B) did not exhibit any contribution to skin sensitization. Particularly, it is reveals that the skin sensitization of ester (A) were slightly lower (A < B) than that of amide (B) and melanogenesis Inhibitory activities of (A) were slightly higher (A > B) than that of (B). It is founded that the alkyl-3,4-dihydroxybenzoate derivatives (A) were an ideal compound as an ingredient of whitening agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.119-126
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• 2016

Skin is the largest organ that protects the body from the external environmental factors such as smog, cigarette smoke, UV. Protective skin barrier is composed with keratinizational keratinocytes and intercellular lipids such as ceramides, cholesterols and fatty acids combined by the lamellar liquid crystal structure. In this research, we confirmed that the Jeju wild ginseng (JWG) extracts dose-dependently increased the expression of serine-palmitoyltransferase (SPT) protein which is associated with ceramide biosynthesis. In addition, emulsion containing 5% JWG extract was applied on skin of human volunteers for 2 weeks and then significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to that of control group. As a results, JWG extract increased the biosynthesis of ceramides that is the key components of the skin lipid through enhancing expression of SPT. In addition, JWG extract reduced TEWL resulting in improvement of skin barrier function. In this context, we suggest that JWG extract could be used as a skin barrier enhancer and moisturing agents in cosmetic fileds.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.9-20
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• 2015

Ultraviolet radiation (UV) is a major cause of skin photoaging, and effective UV protecting agents are needed for the skin health and beauty. This study was undertaken to examine the effects of Bambusae caulis in Taeniam extract (BCTE) on UVB-induced cell death, oxidative stress and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP1) expression in cell-based assays. HaCaT human keratinocytes were exposed to UVB in the presence of BCTE at different concentrations and resulting changes in cell viability and biochemical events were determined. The results showed that BCTE enhanced the viabilities of UVB-exposed cells, and attenuated apoptotic events such as cleavage of procaspase 3 to its active form, and the increase of Bax to Bcl-2 ratios. BCTE also attenuated the reactive oxygen generation and lipid peroxidation in cells exposed to UVB. Additionally, it attenuated the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 1 and the phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase stimulated by UVB. Conclusively, the present study demonstrated that BCTE pro tected skin cells from the UVB-induced cell death, oxidative stress and MMP1 expression, suggesting its potential use as a cosmetic ingredient mitigating some features of the skin photoaging.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.592-599
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• 2019

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.117-129
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• 2019

In this study Anti-inflammatory activity was investigated for the extract of Prunus pendula for. ascendens (Makino) Ohwi by monitoring nitric oxide (NO) production in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells. The P. pendula ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction showed to decrease the NO synthesis by 76.3% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. The inhibition occurred in a dose-dependent manner without causing cell toxicity. The EtOAc fraction also inhibited the production of $PGE_2$, $IL-1{\beta}$, IL-6 and expression of iNOS, COX-2 protein in dose-dependent manner. From the phytochemical study to isolate the active constituents, five known compounds were identified, which are ursolic acid (1), prunasin (2), methyl p-coumarate (3), kaempferol (4), astragalin (5). All of the compounds 1 - 5 were isolated for the first time from the P. pendula. Among the isolates, the flavonoids 4 and 5 were verified to inhibit NO production with high efficiency. These results suggested that extract of P. pendula leaves could be useful as anti-inflammatory agents in pharmaceutical or cosmetic applications.

• 한국생물공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2005.04a
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• pp.541-543
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• 2005

Recently many efforts have been made to develop new therapeutic agents against skin pigmentation abnormalities. The aim of this study is to investigate the skin-whitening effect of Gleditsia Sinensis Lam and to develop new drug delivery carrier. Inhibitory effaces of Gleditsia Sinensis Lam extracts on melanin synthesis were studied. Namely, UV-absorbing ability, free radical scavenging activity and tyrosinase inhibitory of Gleditsia Sinensis Lam extracts were investigated As a result, the extracts of Gleditsia Sinensis Lam were found to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase. Moreover they absorbed wavelength in the UV-B and UV-C region, and extracts of Gleditsia Sinensis Lam had free radical scavenging activity. In this study, in order to administer these ingredient effectively, the shape of liposome observed by TEM was spherical and uniform.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.17 no.10
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• pp.1585-1590
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• 2007

Although a number of melanogenesis inhibitors have recently been reported and used as cosmetic additives, none is completely satisfactory, leaving a need for novel skin-depigmenting agents. Thus, to develop a novel skin depigmenting agent from natural sources, the inhibition of melanogenesis by Chinese plants was evaluated. A methanolic extract of Nigella glandulifera Freyn was found to inhibit the melanin synthesis of murine B16F10 melanoma cells by 43.7% and exhibited a low cytotoxicity (8.1%) at a concentration of $100\;{\mu}g/ml$. Thus, to identify the melanogenesis-inhibiting mechanism, the inhibitory activity towards tyrosinase, the key enzyme of melanogenesis, was further evaluated, and the results showed inhibitory effects on the activity of intracellular tyrosinase yet not on mushroom tyrosinase. Finally, to isolate the compounds with a hypopigmenting capability, activity-guided isolation was performed, and Dioctyl phthalate identified as inhibiting melanogenesis.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.191-198
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• 2009

We have tested the stability of paeoniflorin, a new cosmetic ingredient, extracted from the roots of Paeoniae lactiflora. The stability of aqueous paeoniflorin solution at pH 3, 5 and 7 varied by adding buffer solution was tested at $0^{\circ}C,\;25^{\circ}C,\;40^{\circ}C,\;and\;65^{\circ}C$. The test was performed with or without UV light. The solution of paeoniflorin was stable at pH 3.0, however, the recovery rate of paeoniflorin was 40% at pH 7.0. The stability of paeoniflorin solution was decreased as the pH of paeoniflorin solution was increased by pH 7.0. The effect of storage temperature of paeoniflorin solution shows that the stability of paeoniflorin solution was decreased as the temperature was increased. The stability of paeoniflorin was rather good under UV light than the condition given above $40^{\circ}C$. The stability of paeoniflorin in W/O emulsions shows similar pattern to that of aqueous solution.