• Title/Summary/Keyword: cosmeceutical ingredient

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Global Cosmetics Trends and Cosmceuticals for 21st Century Asia (화장품의 세계적인 개발동향과 21세기 아시아인을 위한 기능성 화장품)

  • T.Joseph Lin
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.5-20
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    • 1997
  • War and poverty depress the consumption of cosmetics, while peace and prosperity encourage their proliferation. With the end of World War II, the US, Europe and Japan witnessed rapid growth of their cosmetic industries. The ending of the Cold War has stimulated the growth of the industry in Eastern Europe. Improved economies, and mass communication are also responsible for the fast growth of the cosmetic industries in many Asian nations. The rapid development of the cosmetic industry in mainland China over the past decade proves that changing economies and political climates can deeply affect the health of our business. In addition to war, economy, political climate and mass communication, factors such as lifestyle, religion, morality and value concepts, can also affect the growth of our industry. Cosmetics are the product of the society. As society and the needs of its people change, cosmetics also evolve with respect to their contents, packaging, distribution, marketing concepts, and emphasis. In many ways, cosmetics mirror our society, reflecting social changes. Until the early 70's, cosmetics in the US were primarily developed for white women. The civil rights movement of the 60's gave birth to ethnic cosmetics, and products designed for African-Americans became popular in the 70's and 80's. The consumerism of the 70's led the FDA to tighten cosmetic regulations, forcing manufacturers to disclose ingredients on their labels. The result was the spread of safety-oriented, "hypoallergenic" cosmetics and more selective use of ingredients. The new ingredient labeling law in Europe is also likely to affect the manner in which development chemists choose ingredients for new products. Environmental pollution, too, can affect cosmetics trends. For example, the concern over ozone depletion in the stratosphere has promoted the consumption of suncare products. Similarly, the popularity of natural cosmetic ingredients, the search of non-animal testing methods, and ecology-conscious cosmetic packaging seen in recent years all reflect the profound influences of our changing world. In the 1980's, a class of efficacy-oriented skin-care products, which the New York Times dubbed "serious" cosmetics, emerged in the US. "Cosmeceuticals" refer to hybrids of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals which have gained importance in the US in the 90's and are quickly spreading world-wide. In spite of regulatory problems, consumer demand and new technologies continue to encourage their development. New classes of cosmeceuticals are emerging to meet the demands of increasingly affluent Asian consumers as we enter the 21st century. as we enter the 21st century.

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Comparison of Biological Activity between Nelumbo nucifera G. Extracts and Cosmetics Adding Nelumbo nucifera G. (백련(Nelumbo nucifera G.) 추출물 및 화장품에 첨가 시 생리활성 비교)

  • Lee, Jin-Young;Yu, Mi-Ra;An, Bong-Jeun
    • Journal of Life Science
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    • v.20 no.8
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    • pp.1241-1248
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    • 2010
  • The solvent extracts of Nelumbo nucifera G. were investigated for antioxidant activities, whitening and anti-wrinkle effects to apply as a functional ingredient in cosmetic products. For their industrial application, the cosmetic products were also prepared with advanced formulation techniques such as W/O/W multiple emulsion. Total phenolic and flavonoids contents increased in Nelumbo nucifera G.-Leaf (NN-L). The electron donating ability of Nelumbo nucifera G.-Flower (NN-F) or Nelumbo nucifera G.-Leaf (NN-L) extracts were above 85% at a concentration of 500 ppm. The superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of Nelumbo nucifera G. (NN-L) extracts was about 60% at a concentration of 1,000 ppm. The xanthine oxidase inhibitory effect of NN-L extract was higher than that of NN-F and NN-S extracts. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin-whitening, was 36% in NN-F at 1,000 ppm. For anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity of NN-L was about 30% at 1,000 ppm. The results of stability test showed that W/O/W multiple emulsion (ME) containing Nelumbo nucifera G. extracts. The electron donating ability of the ME containing NN-F and NN-L were about 60% at a concentration of 100 ppm. The superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of the ME containing NN-L was 30% at 1,000 ppm. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin-whitening, was 34% in the ME containing NN-F at 1,000 ppm. In anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity of the ME containing NN-L was about 55% at 1,000 ppm.

Collagen synthesis ability and inhibitory effect of MMPs in keratinocytes of Lysimachia christinae Hance Extract (금전초 추출물의 케라티노사이트 내 collagen 합성능 및 MMPs 억제효과)

  • Kim, Ju-Eun;Choi, Yun-Sik;Kim, Hye Kyung;Jang, Young-Ah
    • Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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    • v.37 no.4
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    • pp.820-829
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    • 2020
  • This study was conducted to investigate the anti-oxydant and anti-winkle efficacy as cosmetics ingredient of Lysimachia christinae Hance. Recently, the study of wrinkle improvement of natural products has received continuous interest. so we looked at relationship between reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and pro-collagen synthesis and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) through this study. L. christinae Hance were extracted with 70% ethanol (LcHE) and distilled water (LcHW), respectively, and the experiment was conducted. LcHE had better ROS inhibition effect than LcHW and showed no toxicity up to 250 ㎍/mL concentration as a result of MTT assay in HaCaT cells, so we selected LcHE and conducted the wrinkle improvement material study. We confirmed that the synthesis of type-1 pro-collagen reduced by UVB is activated through pro-collagen synthesis assay. we confirmed that LcHE inhibited the increase in MMP-1 -3 -9 of MMPs induced by UVB in skin cells through western blot and we also performed real-time PCR to confirm the effect of the extract with dependence of concentration at mRNA levels. Therefore, it is expected that Lysimachia christinae Hance is used as a natural material for cosmetics that can effectively prevent wrinkles and skin aging by UVB.

Studies on Whitening and UV Damage Protection Effect of the Pterin Compounds (테린계 화합물의 미백 및 자외선 손상방어 효능에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Nam-Kyoung;Kim, Mi-Hwa;Kang, Nae-Im;Choi, Shin-Wook
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.33 no.1 s.60
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    • pp.53-60
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    • 2007
  • (6R)-5,6,7,8-tetrahydrobiopterin ($6-BH_4$) cofactor is essential for various process, and is present in probably every cell or tissue of higher organism. $6-BH_4$ is required lot various enzyme activities, and for less defined functions at the cellular level. And it is well known about the antioxidant effects as a non-protein compound. Recently, scientists proposed another roles for $6-BH_4$ in melanogenesis. $6-BH_4$ is a well known tyrosinase inhibitor. In this study, we found that methyl-$BH_4$ and $6-BH_4$ have antioxidant activities and inhibitory activity for melanin synthesis. These pterin compounds were not toxic in HaCaT and B16F10 cells and showed scavenging activity against DPPH radicals. We also showed that pterin compounds decreased protein levels of tyrosinase and TRP-1. In a clinical test, pterin compounds showed the significant skin whiteining effect after treatment for 3 weeks. Furthermore pterin compounds significantly suppressed the UVB-induced expression of $PGE_2$ and IL-6 genes induced UVB In HaCaT and inhibited UVB-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. These results showed the effect of pterin compounds as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

Anti-melanogenesis and Anti-wrinkle Properties of Korean Native Dendrobium speciosum Ethanol Extract (Dendrobium speciosum 에탄올 추출물의 melanin 생성 억제 효능 및 주름개선 효과)

  • Sim, Mi-Ok;Lee, Hyo-Eun;Jang, Ji-Hun;Jung, Ho-Kyung;Kim, Tae-Muk;Kim, Min-Suk;Jung, Won Seok
    • Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.155-162
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    • 2016
  • Melanin is produced by melanocytes of the melanoepidermic unit and other cell types. These cells secrete and distribute the melanin pigment, which provides protection from ultraviolet radiation. In this study, the inhibitory activity against tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and anti-wrinkling effects on human dermal fibroblasts of Dendrobium speciosum ethanol extract were investigated. The Dendrobium speciosum extract inhibited melanin biosynthesis and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner in comparison with an untreated control group. Treatment with the Dendrobium speciosum extract suppressed α-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis in B16F10 cells and the dendrite outgrowth of melanocyte/melanoma cells. The α-MSH-induced mRNA expression of tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) was significantly attenuated in a concentration-dependent manner by Dendrobium speciosum treatment. In addition, Dendrobium speciosum treatment increased production of type I procollagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Dendrobium speciosum ethanol extract exhibited a potent inhibitory effect on melanin biosynthesis, tyrosinase activity and increased procollagen synthesis. These results indicate that Dendrobium speciosum shows promise as an ingredient in cosmeceutical products due to its whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

Antioxidative and Physiological Activities of Fractions from Pleurospermum kamtschaticumin Extracts (누룩치(Pleurospermum kamtschaticumin) 추출물의 항산화 효과 및 생리활성)

  • Kim, Mi-Seon;Kim, Kyoung-Hee;Yook, Hong-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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    • v.41 no.10
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    • pp.1338-1345
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    • 2012
  • This study investigated the antioxidant activities, whitening effects, and antimicrobial activities of fractions from Pleurospermum kamtschaticumin extract. Total polyphenolic contents of fractions from Pleurospermum kamtschaticumin extract were 116.44~382.73 mg/g GAE (gallic acid equivalent), with the highest value in the ethyl acetate fraction. Fractions of Pleurospermum kamtschaticumin showed the highest DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) radical scavenging activity ($IC_{50}$=0.04 mg/mL) and ABTS radical scavenging activity (98.86% at 0.5 mg/mL), which was similar to ascorbic acid. Further, reducing power and FRAP activity were significantly high in the ethyl acetate and n-butanol fractions. The ethyl acetate and n-butanol fractions showed significantly high SOD-like activities (1 mg/mL, 86.93%, and 78.23%, respectively) compared to other fractions. Tyrosinase inhibition activities of the n-butanol fraction and 80% ethanol extract were 43.52% and 41.64%, respectively. Antimicrobial activity against Escherichia coli was only observed in the chloroform fraction (16.7 mm in 0.5 mg/disc). These results suggest that fractions from Pleurospermum kamtschaticumin extract show comparatively high antioxidant activity and thus could be used as a food additive or cosmeceutical ingredient.

Application as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient of Euryale ferox Seed Extract (가시연꽃 종자 추출물의 화장품 원료로서의 특성)

  • Choo, Soo-Jin;Kim, Young-Hee;Ryoo, In-Ja;Xu, Guang-Hua;Yoo, Ick-Dong
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.35 no.4
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    • pp.309-315
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    • 2009
  • In our search for the natural cosmetic ingredients, we found that Euryale ferox seed extract exhibited the strong antioxidative activity. Five active compounds were isolated from the ethyl acetate extract through various chromatographic methods and their structures were determined by NMR and MS spectral analysis. These compounds were identified as fucosterol (1), 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl)-4-[(7'R),5'-dihydroxy-3'-methoxybenzyl]tetrahydrofuran (2), resorcinol (3), pyrogallol (4) and 4-O-methylgallic acid (5).We evaluated the antioxidative, antielastase activities and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of these compounds. The $SC_{50}$ values of compounds 2 ~ 5 for free radical scavenging activity were $17.0\;{\sim}\;100.2\;{\mu}M$ and especially compounds 4 and 5 were 6-fold more effective than ferulic acid as a positive control. And compounds 2 ~ 4 inhibited human neutrophil elastase with $IC_{50}$ values of $18.8\;{\sim}\;78.2\;{\mu}M$ and compound 3 also inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells with an $IC_{50}$ value of $492.8\;{\mu}M$. These results suggest that Euryale ferox extract having a lot of various active ingredients may be useful as a natural multi-functioning agent.

Anti-Inflammatory Effects of the Mixture of Sorbus commixta, Urtica dioica, Phyllostachys nigra, and Rhus semialata Gall Extracts on LPS-induced Inflammation in HaCaT Cells (각질형성세포에서 LPS로 유도된 염증반응에 대한 마가목, 쐐기풀, 죽여 및 오배자 혼합추출물의 항염 효과)

  • Lee, Kyung-Eun;Nam, Jin-Ju;Kim, Seon-Mi;Kim, Han-Kon;Moon, Seong-Joon;Youm, Jong-Kyung
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.40 no.1
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    • pp.45-54
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    • 2014
  • Lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced inflammatory responses in the HaCaT keratinocyte cell line produce proinflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1${\alpha}$(IL-1${\alpha}$), tumor neurosis factor-${\alpha}$ (TNF-${\alpha}$), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and interleukin- 8 (IL-8) and also increase the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), and prostaglandins E2 (PGE2). In this study, we developed new natural ingredients for cosmetics that inhibit the pro-inflammatory responses induced by LPS in HaCaT cells. The mixture of Sorbus commixta (SC), Urtica dioica (UD), Phyllostachys nigra (PN), and Rhus semialata gall (RS) extracts blocked the increase of TNF-${\alpha}$ IL-1${\alpha}$ IL-6, and IL-8. The increase of COX-2, iNOS, and PGE2 were also blocked by it. Finally, the mixture inhibited skin irritation induced by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), when applied on skin through IQ chamber$^{(R)}$. In conclusion, these results show that the mixture of SC, UD, PN, and RS can be used as a primary ingredient to alleviate skin irritation when cosmeceutical products are developed for sensitive skin.

Studies on Cosmeceutical Activity of Extracts of Moringa oleifera Extract (모링가 추출물에 대한 화장품약리활성 검증)

  • Kim, So Ra;Yoo, Dan Hee;Yeom, Hyeon Ji;Oh, Min Jeong;Lee, Jin Young
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.44 no.3
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    • pp.219-229
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the role of the Moringa oleifera (M. oleifera) extract as a cosmetic additive. The tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory effects showed 47% and 39% at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ concentration, respectively. Also, the collagenase inhibition effect was 31% at $500{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. A cell viability test, measured on macrophage cell (RAW 264.7) and melanoma cell (B16F10) by ethanol extract of M. oleifera, showed 94.2% and 94.8% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration, respectively. In order to confirm anti-inflammatory activity, we examined the inhibitory effects on the production of lipopolysaccharides (LPS)-induced NO in RAW 264.7 cells by Griess assay. As a result, the M. oleifera extract showed a concentration-dependent inhibition of NO production. The protein expression inhibitory effects of M. oleifera extract were measured by western blot at 25, 50, $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration and the ${\beta}-actin$. Results showed that the expression inhibition rates of the iNOS, COX-2, MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, tyrosinase protein were decreased by 85.8%, 57.5%, 80.7%, 30%, 29.9%, 23.6% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration, respectively. It was concluded that M. oleifera extracts had the anti-inflammatory and whitening effects and thus could be applied for cosmetics as a natural ingredient.

Effects of Ehwa Makgeolli Containing Oriental Herbs on Skin Whitening and Wrinkles (한방 이화주의 미백 및 피부 주름 개선 효과)

  • Lee, Sang-Jin;Kwon, Yi-Young;Cho, Sung-Won;Kwon, Hee-Suk;Shin, Woo-Chang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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    • v.42 no.4
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    • pp.550-555
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    • 2013
  • Extrinsic skin aging is characterized by the loss of skin tone and resilience, irregular pigmentation, and deep wrinkles. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of Ehwa Makgeolli containing oriental herbs (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch., Lycium chinense MILL., Morus alba L., and Saururus chinensis Baill) on skin whitening and wrinkling in human skin cells. We prepared Makgeolli extracts (HEE) with 70% ethanol. HEE significantly inhibited in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity and reduced the cellular and secreted melanin content of mouse melanoma melanocytes (B16F1 cells). HEE down-regulated the protein expression of tyrosinase related protein (TRP)-1/-2, a key player in melanogenesis. Treatment with HEE in human keratinoctyes (HaCaT cells) inhibited the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2/-9 in a dose-dependent manner and dramatically reduced the expression of MMP-2/-9. In addition, HEE attenuated lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced nitric oxide production in murine macrophages (RAW264.7 cells). These results indicate that HEE may be a great cosmeceutical ingredient for its whitening, anti-wrinkle, and anti-inflammatory effects.