• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.570-577
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• 2003

The importance of cornified envelope (CE)-bound lipids to epidermal barrier function is increasingly being recognized. In the present study, we intentionally damaged the cornified layer of hairless mice by ultraviolet irradiation and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) treatment, and assessed the changes in epidermal barrier function by measuring Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). We also measured changes in the amount of CE-bound lipids using thin layer chromatography (TLC). The results showed that both treatments increased TEWL and decreased CE-bound lipids (omega-hydroxy cerami de and omega-hydroxy acid). In addition, investigation of the chronological changes in TEWL revealed an inverse relationship between TEWL and CE-bound lipids, and a correlation between CE-bound lipids and epidermal barrier function. We then measured the amount of CE-bound lipids in the cheek and the medial side of the upper arm in humans. The results showed that because the cheek receives external stimulation on a daily basis, the amount of CE-bound lipids was significantly lower, while the level of TEWL was higher. These observations, together with those from the animal study, indicate that CE-bound lipids are related to epidermal barrier function.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.329-335
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• 2017

We have studied on the keratinocytes differentiation and skin barrier function using Adenophorae radix (A. radix) root extract, which was known to contain triterpenoid, saponin and starch. A. radix root extracts showed the $PPAR{\alpha}$ expression level of Wy-14,643 $0.5-1.0{\mu}M$ in CV-1 cells. The cornified envelop formation (CE) of human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and normal human keratinocyte (NHK) showed a statistically significant increased compared to the control. When HaCaT cells were treated with A. radix root extract, transglutaminase (TGase-1) was significantly increased. As a result of clinical study of the simple cosmetic formulation containing A. radix root extract for about 2 weeks, TEWL values were significantly decreased and water contents were increased. The ceramides, which were obtained from the inner forearm, were also significantly increased statistically. We suggest that the A. radix root extract can be used as a preventive and therapeutic agent for skin diseases such as dry skin and atopy.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1445-1453
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• 2023

In 2022, the domestic production performance of functional cosmetics in South Korea reached 4.6 trillion won, accounting for 33.85% of the total cosmetics production. The number of functional cosmetics reviewed increased by about 7.5% from the previous year, totaling 974 items. Especially with the increasing importance of the skin barrier function due to skin sensitivity caused by various environmental pollutants, domestic cosmetic companies are showing interest in the development of new ingredients and products related to this area. This study aims to analyze academic research trends related to in vitro experiments for the development of cosmetics improving the skin barrier, to provide practical information for the cosmetic industry. The findings are as follows: Academic research mainly focused on the efficacy of natural ingredients in improving the skin barrier, but there is a significant lack of quantitative accumulation of research. For the development of skin barrier-improving cosmetic ingredients, efficacy evaluation indicators were set, including hyaluronic acid production, expression of filaggrin gene, loricrin, formation of cornified envelope (CE), and expression of ceramide synthesis enzyme genes. Moreover, effective cosmetic ingredients for improving the skin barrier included lemongrass and perilla leaf extracts, flavonoids, Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis, Exosomelike Nanovesicles derived from apple callus, Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus, Acanthopanax sessiliflorus, Eleutherococcus gracilistylus, Acer okamotoanum extracts, Aloe vera adventitious root extract, ethanol extract of Aruncus dioicus, and organic solvent fraction of Dracocephalum argunense.