• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.132-137
• /
• 2016

Although silk textile shows excellent performance when used in clothing over a long period, its limited elongation and elasticity have restricted its extension to other textile and non-textile applications. In the present study, silk textile was produced using silk/polyurethane core-spun yarn and degummed to enhance its elongation and elasticity. The effects of degumming on the structure and mechanical properties of the silk textile were examined. Scanning electron microscopy observation revealed that the silk filaments became finer and more flexible with degumming, resulting in increased tangling of weft yarns and a highly shrunk textile structure in the weft direction. Although the strength of the degummed silk textile was decreased, its elongation greatly increased by 383% (a 16-fold increase) because of the degumming treatment. In particular, the elasticity of the silk textile was greatly improved. The silk textile exhibited ~30% reduction in the elongation after the second extension; however, the elongation almost did not change after 18 additional extension-recovery tests.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.93-104
• /
• 2014

This paper investigates the physical properties such as water absorption, drying and hygral expansion of moisture responded transformable fibers and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. For this purpose, three kinds of covered filament yarn specimens using HEF and spandex as core and PET, aerocool as a covering filament were prepared. The knitted fabric specimens were made using three kinds yarn specimens and dyed with different dyeing temperature and time. The moisture absorption, drying and hygral expansion of three kinds of knitted fabric specimens were measured and discussed with yarn structure. The wearing performance of these knitted fabric specimens were also measured and discussed with yarn characteristics using FAST system. Finally, the dyeing characteristics such as dye affinity, color difference and color fastness to washing of these knitted fabric specimens were measured and discussed with different dyeing temperature and time for examining dyeing process performance of these moisture responded transformable knitted fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.33-43
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.661-666
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the dyeability of polyester(PET) fabric by thermal bonding with low melting component of bicomponent fiber and to describe the change of physical properties of thermal bonded PET fabrics. The PET fabrics were prepared with regular PET fiber as warp and bicomponent fiber as weft. The bicomponent fiber of sheath-core type was composed with a regular PET core and low melting PET sheath. The thermal bonding of PET fabric was carried out in pin tenter($195^{\circ}C$) for 60 seconds. In this study, we investigated the dye ability and fastness of the dyed PET fabric. Dye ability of E-type dyestuff is higher than S-type dyestuff. In the case of E- type dyestuff, the saturated dyeing time was 10minutes at $130^{\circ}C$. The washing fastness and light fastness were excellent as 4-5grade.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2011.03a
• /
• pp.96-96
• /
• 2011

본 연구에서는 스포츠 캐주얼 웨어(스노우보드복, 골프복, 등산복 등)로 사용되는 신축성 소재의 개발로 Stretch성을 부여하기 위하여 Nylon 66 POY 소재의 가연가공 기술을 통하여 Mechanical Stretch 성능이 발현되는 소재를 개발하고자 한다. 섬유소재에 일반적으로 신축성을 부여하기 위해서는 Spandex(Polyurethane, PU)를 방적공정에서 복합 제조하는 Core Yarn과 장섬유에 Spandex를 피복하는 Covering Yarn(직물용) 형태가 있는데, Spandex로 인한 신축성은 200~800% 발현되나 PU를 사용함에 따라서 공정추가에 대한 원가상승, 균제도 불량, 몰림현상 및 PU 수축에 의한 중량감이 있으며, 또한 PU에 의한 견뢰도불량, 피복사의 벗겨짐성 등 외관상 트러블 발생빈도가 높다. 이에 따라 Spandex를 사용하지 않고 단일소재로서 사가공기술에 의해 Stretch성이 부여되는 소재를 개발하고 이의 기술을 상용화 하고자 한다. Nylon 66 POY 소재를 Disc 가연기, Pin 가연기 등의 설비를 이용하여 70d급 원사의 가연가공 공정을 진행하였다. 그리고 개발된 원사의 섬도(d), 강도(g/d), 신도(%), 크림프율(%)의 물성 시험을 통하여 Nylon66의 공정상 변화인자에 따른 기본 물성 및 Stretch 발현성을 분석하여 최적의 설비 및 공정조건을 확립하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.145-152
• /
• 2014

The usage of textile-based sensors has increased due to their many advantages (compared to IT sensors) when applied to body assessment and comfort. Textile-based sensors have different detecting factors such as pressure, voltage, current and capacitance to investigate the characteristics. In this study, textile-based sensor fabrics with sheath-core type conductive yarns were produced and the relationship between capacitance changes and applied load was investigated. The physical and electric properties of textile-based sensor fabrics were also investigated under various laminating conditions. A textile based pressure sensor that uses a sheath-core conductive yarn to ensure the stability of the pressure sensor in the textile-based sensor (the physical structure of the reaction characteristic of the capacitance) is important for the stability of the initial value of the initial capacitance value outside the characteristic of the textile structural environment. In addition, a textile based sensor is displaced relative to the initial value of the capacitance change according to pressure changes in the capacitance value of the sensor due to the fineness of the high risk of noise generation. Changing the physical structure of the fabric through the sensor characteristic of the pressure sensor via the noise generating element of laminating (temperature, humidity, and static electricity) to cut off the voltage output element to improve the data reliability could be secured.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2011.11a
• /
• pp.45-45
• /
• 2011

최근 환경과 건강에 대한 관심이 증대되면서, 복합기능을 갖는 다기능성 섬유에 대한 요구가 증대되고 있는 실정이다. 일반적으로 기능성은 마이크로캡슐이나 후가공제를 이용하여 일반 섬유 제품에 적용하고 있다. 마이크로캡슐이나 후가공제가 적용된 일반 섬유제품은 일상생활 속에서의 마찰 및 세탁 등으로 인해 기능 저하가 발생된다. 이러한 문제점을 개선하기 위해 특수 방사 기술을 이용하여 다기능성을 갖는 섬유 제조 기술이 개발되고 있다. 다기능성 섬유소재 및 응용제품은 그 제조 공정성이 우수하고, 염색 가공 등의 후 공정 조건에 의해 기능성 저하를 초래하지 않고, 지속시간이 오래 유지해야하는 조건을 만족해야한다. 이러한 기능성 저하 문제를 해결하고 내구성 향상 및 기능성의 지속 시간을 오래 유지하기 위하여 복합 방사 기술을 이용하여 이형 단면 원사, Sheath-Core 단면 원사 등이 개발되고 있다. 개발된 기능성 원사의 경우 일반 원사와 다른 형태의 염색성을 보일 수 있으며, 염색 온도 및 염색 시간 등 염색 조건이 달라질 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 식물 등에서 추출한 천연 항균 유기물을 마이크로캡슐화하여 이형단면의 심부에 담지된 형태인 Sheath(Nylon: 50%)-Core(PP MB: 50%) 원사의 염색성 평가 시험을 실시하였다. 시험 방법은 Sheath-Core 원사와 일반 Nylon 원사와 염착 거동 시험을 통해 비교해 나타냈고, 염색 전 후의 물성을 비교해보았다. 또한 염색성 평가 시험을 토대로 기능성 원사의 염색 온도와 시간에 따른 색차 비교 시험을 통해 기능성 원사의 염색 조건을 선정하는 시험을 실시하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2012.03a
• /
• pp.89-89
• /
• 2012

선행 연구에서는 m-Aramid와 p-Aramid의 Ring 방적사/Core 방적사 조건에 따른 방적사 물성에 대해서 연구하였는데, Ring 방적사의 혼용율, 스핀들 속도에 따른 물성 변화, Core 방적사의 공정특성에 따른 방적성, 피복성에 대해 연구를 하였다. 그 결과 Ring 방적사의 경우 m-Aramid의 혼용율이 증가할수록 사 강도는 증가하는 경향을 확인할 수 있었고, 스핀들 속도가 증가함에 따라서 불균제도 및 사결점이 다소 증가하였다. Core 방적사의 경우 Core에 p-Aramid를 사용했을 때 방적성과 피복성은 양호 하였지만, 강한 p-Aramid에 의해 톱 롤러코트의 마모가 되는 경향을 볼 수 있었다. 본 연구에서는 Ring 방적사/Core 방적사에 대해 좀더 구체적인 제조공정조건에 의한 물성 변화를 알아보았고, 좀더 다양한 섬유소재를 적용해서 제조하였다. Ring 방적사의 경우 p-Aramid 혼용율에 따른 실험을 하였는데, m-Aramid에 대한 p-Aramid의 혼용율을 0%, 5%, 10%, 20% 로 하여 Ne30을 제조하였으며, Core 방적사는 Core를 p-Aramid 200D로 하고 Sheath를 Cotton으로 하여 Core 공급속도비 (1.06, 1.10, 1.14), 연계수(T/M, 3.8, 4.0, 4.2), Sheath/Core 혼섬율(70/30, 60/40, 50/50)에 따라 제조하였다. 추가로 Core 방적사는 Sheath에 Cotton 대신 FR-Rayon과 선염 Cotton을 사용하여 각각 Sheath/Core 혼섬율 70/30의 비율로 방적사를 제조하여 다양한 소재에 따른 방적사의 물성을 측정하였다. 제조된 시험 원사들의 측정 물성은 번수(Ne), 균제도(U%), 사결점(IPI), 강력(cN), 신도(%), 비강도(cN/Tex) 등이며, 편직을 통해 편성물의 외관을 확인하였다. Ring 방적사의 경우 p-Aramid의 혼용율이 증가할수록 강도는 완만하게 증가한 반면, 신도는 급격하게 감소하였다. Cotton Core 방적사의 경우는 공급속도비가 높아질수록 균제도가 높아지는 것을 볼수 있었고, Core 공급속도비가 높아질수록 외관상 피복도는 높아진 것을 볼 수 있었다. 이렇게 연구된 Aramid 소재를 이용한 방적사 제조 공정조건변화에 따른 물성 및 피복도 결과는 기존 방적업체에서 Aramid를 이용한 방적사 제조시에 공정조건을 확보하는데 도움이 될 것이라 생각되며, 방적사 시제품 생산시에 발생할 수 있는 시행착오를 줄임으로써 시제품 제조를 위한 생산비용의 Loss를 절감할 수 있을 것으로 예상된다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.474-480
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to prepare the hardness of polyester(PET) fabric by thermal bonding with low melting component of bicomponent fiber and to describe the change of physical properties of thermal bonded PET fabrics. The PET fabrics were prepared with regular PET fiber as warp and bicomponent fiber as weft. The bicomponent fiber of sheath-core type were composed with a regular PET core and low melting PET sheath. The thermal bonding of PET fabric was carried out in pin tenter from 120 to $195^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 60 seconds. In this study, we investigated the physical properties and melting behavior of PET fiber and the effect of the temperature of the pin tenter on the thermal bonding, mechanical properties. Melting peak of warp showed the thermal behavior of general PET fiber. However, melting peak of weft fiber(bicomponent fiber) showed the double melting peak. The thermal bonding of the PET fabric formed at about temperature of lower melting peak. The optimum thermal bonding conditions for PET fabrics was applied at $190{\sim}195^{\circ}C$ for 60seconds by pin tenter. On the other hand, the tensile strength of the PET fabric decreased with an increasing temperature of thermal bonding.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2012.03a
• /
• pp.91-91
• /
• 2012

본 연구에서는 아랍 중동지역 이슬람교 여성들이 착용하고 있는 베일이나 망토 형태의 전통의상(히잡(Hijab), 차도르(Chador), 아바야(Abaya) 등)에 사용되는 심색 제트블랙(Jet-Black) 소재를 개발하기 위하여, 고분자 조합에 의한 심초형 복합방사(POY 85/36) 및 열연신 복합가공사(ACY 135/72)를 개발, 심미적 심색성 및 세탁견뢰도가 우수한 Jet-Black 제품(L값 7.32)을 개발하였다.