• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.6
• /
• pp.79-94
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to explore the process of how modern fashion establishes new consumption cultures by analyzing the different types of fashion toys that have appeared in modern fashion, and identifying inherent meanings of the said toys. The range of this study was limited to four collections (New York, London, Milano, Paris) from 2000 to 2015. In addition to these collections, advertisement campaign and cooperative examples as well as examples of fashion toys that appeared in public interest activities and collections were included. The selected materials were classified into different types of fashion toy usage. From the results of analyzing fashion toys appearing in modern fashion, the four following characteristics. After analyzing the use of fashion toys in modern fashion, four characteristics were found. First, fashion toys were found to be a means to maximize the visual effects of the collection stage. Second, fashion toys utilized as a fashion object were key elements in transforming neo-pop into modern fashion, and constructing high fashion. Third, the fact that people's fashion and fashion toys share contemporary fashion means that customers are shared through the integration of diverse media. This leads to creation of new benefits. Fourth, fashion toys are meaningful because the products reflect contemporary culture, and extend the scope of fashion and art, as it can be considered fashion as well as art. In conclusion, fashion toys were meaningful in that high fashion broke from conservative values, and swiftly introduced contemporary culture codes. It derived a point of effective contact to present a new way of consumption and extended the scope of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.3
• /
• pp.47-61
• /
• 2015

Dress functions as a clear boundary between gender differences In the past. However dress in the 21st century, due to movement of feminism during the 1960's, advance of mass media and the influence of postmodernism, the boundary of gender differences has been blurred. Especially in men's fashion, where there was no little changes in traditional menswear, it is noteworthy that there appears some changes. The research about gender has developed to queer theory, subjected on gender itself, founded on the gender diversity. The purpose of the study is to conduct the implied meanings of dress in contemporary society, when gender diversity has been expressed in men's fashion, and to review the characteristics of contemporary men's fashion through the collections and advertisements of post 2000's as well as internet sites. This research is based on theory of Judith Butler, which is on the center of feminism and queer theory. Homosexual expressions which are presented in male clothing and advertisement produce rejection of the dichotomous view of gender concept and allowing of individual gender identity expression.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.245-260
• /
• 2010

Collaboration among various fields appear according to rising of snack culture, polarizing phenomenon by a point to value, consumer behavior change giving importance to direct experience, and arrival of high touch age satisfied various needs and desires of consumer. Collaboration progressed limited edition form utilizes famous artist and designer's fame to promote products and upgrade their brand image through a short period agreement. This research aims at analysis about collaboration phenomenon in collaboration manners and characteristics, and understands changed socio-cultural meaning through collaboration expressed in almost all industry for high speedy changing fashion environment. This research utilizes between theoretical study and empirical analysis. For concentrated study, research period limits from 2007 to the present time 2009. This paper's purpose is studying on the socio-cultural meaning through analysis about characteristics of the trend of collaboration expressed in contemporary fashion. This research's results are as follow as; First, common life toward aesthetic surrounding, Second, introduction of high concept, Third, the power of Homo Consmus, Forth, focusing on the intangible elements and the value. This study intends to predict change of fashion design and fashion market for complicated consumer, and present fundamental materials about fashion industry and design development of the future through consideration on concrete aspect and meaning of collaboration expressed in contemporary fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.8
• /
• pp.67-82
• /
• 2014

This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer's works published in the world's big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.3
• /
• pp.117-131
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study is for affirmation about fashion and film industry has very important relationship through the image of film fashion in 1990. To this processing , films in 1990 were analyzed by the back ground, time place, persons's status are expressed in period movie but the person's characters, development of story mood in contemporary movies. The contents of this study are as follows : First, film fashion which was related mass fashion design and concept development and fashion designers as constume services were considered. Second, the change of star image through the 20th century. The roles and new image of film fashion in period movies and contemporary movies in 1990 were searched. Third, proposal and results were confirmed for expansion of fashion industry and film industry together. Finally, from the latter of 20th century, a lot of fashion designers have participated in film works than before, So the images of films were sued and reflected as new mass trend . Especially retro-romantic mood was expressed in fashion trend due to period movie fashion. Also minimal city look and elegance glamourous look are represented cause of contemporary movie fashion. Therefore, the cooperation between film productions and fashion professionals is very important for promotion of Korean culture development in 21st century, 'the century of image'.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 2000

Jacques Derrida took off the self-contradiction of structuralism and built up a theory so called "Deconstruct". By issuing a series of papers which strongly criticized the existing western philosophy, he drew into 'strangers' alienated and deconstructed the methodology of structuralism by getting out of the antagonistic thought attaching great importance to Logos. Discomposition is realized by exposing the ex-structural elements existed inside of structuralism, and is an open philosophy recognizing the dignity and freedom of an individual than the general structure in the methodology of structuralism. Discomposition is a theory for criticizing the conservative thought frame traditional western philosophy, and deconstruct as a method of criticism persists a new epistemology by questioning to all texts including a text of tradition and deconstructing these texts. The contemporary fashion in 1990's shows the discompositive appearances with the different form. textile print and color. By the analysis according to the deconstruct process, the characters of discompositive fashion are undecidability decentring, disorder, and dislocation. Many designers like Martin Margiella, Alexander Mcqueen, and Ann Demeulemeester express these characters on their fashion. The result of this process, the characters of discompositive design can be classified matamorphosis, harmony of the disharmony and coexistence of the ambivalence.bivalence.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.205-215
• /
• 2014

This study analyzed 'The representation of death' as expressed in the fashion photography posted on Facebook. Currently, there is a growing interest in 'Well-dying'. Also contemporary art and fashion is a trend that expressed what about death more than life. And today, Facebook is one of the current worldwide as a powerful communication. Death representation in contemporary fashion photography, as expressed in its first characteristic is 'Vanitas', and the main material was a skull. The shape of a skeleton of the symbol of death. Vanitas of inner meaning is vain, a mortal life's futility and death for the paradoxical emotion. The second characteristic is 'Phantom of the ruins'. This is like the darkness of death, and the shape represented in that space. And the death representation is depressed, gloomy atmosphere, dead-man and warm-less. Inner meaning is curiosity about the ghosts and the decadence romantic about the afterlife. The last characteristic is 'Grotesque'. This characteristic is the destruction of the body, fear of sadistic, and inhuman shape. This is parable with death that pain and fear of death, dark fantasy, the appearance of a contradiction modern society and cut off humanity. Inner meaning is the dark fear of death and the anger of wrong of the present society. At present, we have to reproduce the death, and what we want is eventually no one can escape 'Attention to death'. In addition, by expressing the solidarity between death and life is to want to get a consolation for the anxiety and afraid reality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.3 s.93
• /
• pp.122-135
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to classify achromatic color images adopted by contemporary fashion design in order to analyze the links between achromatic color images and fashion images. To this end, the study on the images of achromatic colors of White, grey, and black was conducted by reviewing related documents. In order to analyze the image factors affecting contemporary fashion design, the documents related to fashion history were consulted and in the case of fashion design factors and images, fashion looks using achromatic color as a main theme were referred. The results of this study are as follows : 1. An achromatic color is cold, calm and plain as well as modern. At the same time, it is abstinent and solemn so the color has been mainly used as religious garment. 2. An achromatic color used in apparels has been influenced by the developments of culture, art, society, ideology, politics, economy, science and technology. Black dress was introduced by Art Deco colors, little black dress by feminism, white by the popularity of sports, black becomes more popular by nihilistic beat and punk generations, moon look and cyber punk look were introduced for the advancement of science. Other apparel looks using the color are modern look, feminine look, futuristic look, mannish look, sportive look, and avant-garde look.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.10
• /
• pp.1215-1227
• /
• 2011

The recent craze for so-called skinny jeans is illustrative of the restraint of the body through dress. This phenomenon is noteworthy when considering the internalization of the corset in contemporary fashion. Grown out of the garments of soundly practical use, blue jeans have led the stream of fashion for about 150 years and now they serve as the new corset idealizing the female body in the form of skinny jeans. This study intends to examine the idealization of the body in contemporary fashion and focus on skinny jeans as an externalized corset. The struggle with corsets continues in that the real body is overwhelmed by fashion items. In the aspect of idealizing the body by constraining the body parts, skinny jeans externalize the control of the body as contemporary corsets. This study conducts literature research and content analysis as the method of investigation and focuses on women's fashion from the 20th century. Exerting a harmful influence on health (as corsets have done) the body in skinny jeans is regarded as a modifiable entity. The thinness of the body achieved by skinny jeans suggests the controlling power over the body. Moreover, this gives access to the power presented by the contemporary ideal of thinness. Skinny jeans are modern day glass slippers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.987-1003
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to supply available data for men's fashion design planning by analyzing the trend and design tendency of the preppy look in the domestic men's collection. In the men's collection of Seoul fashion week from 2011 S/S to 2015 S/S, 494 photos judged to be the preppy look by three design specialists were chosen in Seoul fashion week and style.com's web-site. Design analyses were compiled based on year, season, brands, item, color, material, and silhouette. The preppy look was found often in S/S season, three piece combinations were the most common, and "H", "I" silhouettes were also popular. Refined black and refreshing orange were used with traditional preppy colors like navy, beige, gray, and white. Contrast color arrangement and neutral, moderate tones were seen repeatedly. Two-thirds of fabrics were pattern-less with clean, bulky, and soft textures. Coordinating accessories like hats, backpacks, books, headsets were used frequently. Among the various preppy fashion types, there were 'traditional preppy' faithful to tradition, 'sophisticated preppy' with refined semi-formal look, 'sportive preppy' with active sports sense, and 'natural preppy' with natural and comfortable senses. In a contemporary preppy look, traditional and practical senses are combined with casual and sportive pieces. This study can provide the data for design planning, interpreting, and applying the fashion themes along with contemporary sensibilities since the preppy look is based on cultural history.