• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.73-81
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• 1997

Parsimon juice dyeing is the one of the most popular natural dyeing methods which have been done traditionally among the farmers. The clothes dyed with parsimon juice has several merits, that is, it become much more durable, cool, easy to wash and wear after dyeing and these merits are the reason why people likes to wear the parsimon juice dyeing clothes as work wear. Especially in Cheju province, parsimon juice clothes became a folk costume and many people still enjoy wearing it in the hot summer days. But one of the demerits of parsimon dyeing is that the possible period of dyeing is very short. So, if parsimon juice dyeing could be done with the preserved parsimon juice, it would be possible to enlength the period. With this idea, we compared the color and colorfastness of fabrics which were dyed with 4 kinds of parsimon juice. The experimental parsimon juice 96-8 was preserved during 13 months, 96-9 was 12 months, 97-8 was 1 month and 97-9 was not preserved one. The experimental fabrics were cotton, silk. nylon and polyester fabrics. The results were as follows ; 1. The colors of fabrics dyed with experimental parsimon juice 96-9, 97-8, 97-9 were yellow-red and dyeing states were good. But the colors of fabrics dyed with 96-8 were dark and the state were bad, because the color of experimental parsimon juice 96-8 was changed during preservation. 2. The best state of dyeing could see in the fabrics dyed with experimental parsimon juice 97-8, although that was preserved 1 month. 3. There were differences of color between experimental fabrics dyed with same juice and the colors were thicker in cotton and silk than in nylon and polyester fabrics. 4. During wetting and drying process, the color changes in fabrics dyed with no preserved one were more than in fabrics dyed with preserved ones. 5. The color fastness to the light of the dyed fabrics was over 4, to the acidic perspiration was 3~4 or 4~5, to the alkaline perspiration was 2, 3 or 3~4 and to the washing was 1~2. There was no significant difference in colorfastness between the 96-9 dyed fabrics and 97-9 dyed fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.189-194
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• 2016

The objectives of this research were to study the effect of salt-shrinkage finishing of silk on shrinkage degree and dyeing property of cochineal, and to investigate the efficacy of obtained results for imparting surface design effect on silk fabric. Ultimately it was aimed to suggest a technical process for developing natural dyed silk products with diverse design. Premordanted silk fabric was treated with $Ca(NO_3)_2$ solution(gravity: 1.45) at $90^{\circ}C$ for 1 min, washed, dried for further evaluation. The shrinkage of salt-treated fabric was calculated. The effects of salt treatment on the dye uptake of cochineal and colorfastness were investigated. The degrees of shrinkage were 10% and 3% for warp and weft, respectively. The salt treatment resulted in improving dye uptake of cochineal slightly. In addition, it improved colorfastness to washing and light. On the basis of the results, a technical process composed of premordanting, salt treatment and natural dyeing was suggested and using the process, two examples of textile design were presented. It can be concluded to impart various three dimensional surface design effect on silk fabric by applying salt-shrinkage finishing with combination of natural dyeing and mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.171-179
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• 2017

This study was to investigate the practicality and functionality of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a natural dye resource while searching for various dyeing methods to utilize them. Effect of dyeing condition including methanol ratio of dyebath, dyeing temperature and time, mordanting method, etc were investigated. Colorants were prepared by extraction in methanol and followed drying process. When composing 30% of methanol in the dyebath, better dyeuptake and uniform dyeing were resulted. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method on the wool fabrics. Fe and Ti were effective for increasing the dye uptake on the silk fabrics. Depending on mordant type and mordanting method, the dyed fabrics got various color showing green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. As for color fastness, the silk fabrics dyed with water lily extract showed relatively high rating in light fastness(3~4, 4~5 rating), washing fastness(4~5, 5 rating), and rubbing fastness(4, 4~5 rating). The silk and wool fabrics dyed with water lily leaves extract showed excellent antimicrobial activity over 98% of bacterial reduction rate against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. It was confirmed that water lily leaves can be used as a natural dye resource for dyeing wool and silk fabrics because its colorants showed excellent affinity and antimicrobial functionality as well as good colorfastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.819-827
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to produce cotton fabric having improved dyeability and colorfastness as well as retaining the desirable durable press property. When cotton fabric was treated with additives, nitrogen content was increased as the additive concentration was increased. DP ratings and wrinkle recovery properties of BTCA treated cotton fabrics were greatly increased. But DP rating was lowered slightly by adding additives and wrinkle recovery property was decreased with the increase of additive concentration. Tensile strength was decreased by BTCA treatment but increased as additive concentration was increased. Various BTCA/additive treatments produced great affinity for reactive and acid dyes when dyebaths were adjusted at pH 3. It was showed that dyeability was increased as additive concentration was increased. The most effective additive for improving the dyeing properties of the crosslinked cotton was TEAㆍHCl. In case of reactive dye, there was almost no improvement on the dyeability of finished cotton by adding salt. Color fastness to washing and light of finished and dyed cotton were low except for the washfastness of reactive dye. Dyeing the BTCA/additive treated cotton fabrics with reactive dye had no effect on the physical properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.577-585
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• 2001

Dyeing properties of the colorants extracted from pomegranate hull on cotton fabric were investigated. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Cationic agent treatment was done for cotton to improve low dyeability in natural dyeing. In addition antimicrobial activity of the cotton fabrics dyed with pomegranate colorants was examined by the shake flask method. Pomegranate colorants showed low affinity to cotton fiber and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type. Therefore, hydrogen bonding was involved in the adsorption of pomegranate colorants onto cotton fiber. Mordants did not significantly increase dye adsorption. Pomegranate colorants produced mainly yellow color on cotton fabric. In order to improve dye uptake, cotton was cationized by treating with Cationon UK(quarterly ammonium salt) and chitosan. The cationized cotton with Cationon UK showed higher dye uptake and shorter dyeing time, compared with the untreated cotton. Chitosan treated cotton also showed high dye uptake, but chitosan was less effective compared with Cationon UK. Fastness to washing, perspiration, and rubbing was not improved by mordanting and cationizing treatment, but light fastness was increased by all mordants and cationic agent. As dye concentration increased, bacterial reduction rate was increased and mordants did not significantly increase bacterial reduction rate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.508-517
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• 2010

One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.35-41
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• 2008

This study investigated the dyeing properties of silk fabrics with Annatto. The dye stuff was extracted by distilled water at $60^{\circ}C$, 10minutes, 1:100 of bath ratio. Dyeability(K/S) and color fastness of silk fabrics were tested under conditions of various concentrations, time, temperature, repeat-numbers of dyeing, pH, mordants variables and methods of mordanting. The highest absorbance was found in methanol extract of Annatto. The optimum dyeing concentration, time and temperature of silk fabrics with Annatto were 25%(o.w.f.), 60min and $60^{\circ}C$ respectively. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordanting than in pre-mordanting, and especially post-Fe mordant showed highest K/S value. In the case of colorfastness, Cu-mordanted fabrics were good washing fastness. Dry cleaning fastness appeared 4-5 grades and light fastness showed lowest grade.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.268-275
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• 2017

As the substitute of synthetic coloring materials for hair dyeing, we selected some natural ones of three primary colors such as sappan wood, logwood(red), gardenia blue(blue) and amur cork tree(yellow). Mixed colorants and metallic mordanting technique were used to widen the color space of dyed samples. In view of similarity in morphological and chemical structure, wool was adopted as the reference material for human hair to evaluate the color properties of hair dyeing. The color properties of the dyed samples were evaluated by using CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell color systems. The addition of an alum or ferrous mordants was effective to expand the color space of hair and to increase the colorfastness to washing and light more than the rating of 1. Displaying the dyed samples by using Munsell color system, better linearity of hue values between the dyed samples of wool and human hair was shown when alum mordant was used.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.233-240
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• 2019

Dyeing is an essential process for improving the value of textile products, but it is considered as one of industries causing pollution because of producing wastewater containing hazardous chemicals as well as using a large amount of water and energy. Global demand for greener technologies in textile field is getting much more attention and accordingly, the use of eco-friendly natural dyes is growing much larger. In textile printing, both dyes and pigments can be used. Pigment printing is more simple process and requires less water and less energy, compared to dye printing. In this study, the organic pigment was prepared from the marigold colorant. Samples were stencil printed, pressed(70℃, 3min) and then heat treated(150℃, 5min). The uptake of polyacrylic acid as a chemical binder was the lowest. In particular, marigold pigments were excellent in color and texture when Guar Gum and Sodium Alginate were used as binders. In addition, the light and washing fastness was rated very high as 4, 4/5 grades, and the rubbing fastness was also excellent as 3 and 4 grades.