• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.215-219
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• 2000

Dyeability and antimicrobial activity of Saururus chinensis on to silk and cotton fabrics has been studied. The dyestuff was extracted with distilled water. Silk fabric showed higher K/S value than cotton fabric at the same condition. And with the simmordanting by Fe, Cu gave good improvements of the K/S values. Surface color of dyed fabrics was various according to the used mordants: Cr mordanted fabric was to be cleared, Fe mordanted fabric was the greatest color difference. The fastness was significantly improved in mordanting. The Fe, Cu mordanted silk fabrics was the greatest antimicrobial activity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.166-173
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with Rumex crispus L. root extract was investigated. The dyeability of Rumex crispus L. root extract was evaluated with condition of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, methods of mordanting, color fastness and antibacterial activity, etc. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the Rumex crispus L. distilled water extract appears at 274 nm and 336 nm, methanol extract was 274 nm and 356 nm. Optical dyeing temperature of silk fabrics was $70^{\circ}C$. The K/S values of the dyed fabrics were increased with increasing dyeing time. Surface colors of dyed fabrics were various by the used mordants; RP-YR-Y range. The color fastness was improved by adding mordants were added except Sn. Dyed silk fabrics with mordants showed antibacterial activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.804-816
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• 2009

This study was aimed to analyze color characteristics of silk fabrics dyed with a variety of commercial natural dyes focusing on hue/tone system. Using eleven different natural dyes, single and sequential dyeing were performed under a variety of conditions of dye bath concentration, mordanting, and dyeing sequences. Color characteristics of dyed silk fabrics were investigated by Munsell's color notation of H V/C and PCCS (Practical Color Coordination System) tones. As results, most of yellowish natural dyes as principal shades in natural dyeing showed Y or YR for hue families while d, ltg, and g for tone, which agrees with colors frequently used in comtemporary apparel industries. As for single dyeing, some hues like R, RP, G, GY, and BG were found to have their own tones owing to the used natural dyes. For varying hues in natural dyeing, sequential dyeing is useful in that GY, G, and BG rarely appeared in single dyeing were frequently shown in sequential dyeing by combination of some dyes. In the other hands, mordanting may be employed for tone variation in that aluminum seemed to contribute to light and dull tones, copper to dull, and ferrum to garyish and dark ones. These results can be helpful to design colors for fashion fields by natural dyeing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 2001

The object of this study is to improve the adsorption of dye for gromwell. Dye was from gromwell first soaked in methylol and added the distilled water, using same amount of methylol. The fabrics used for the experiments were cotton, silk and acrylics(KS0905). These were used untreated and pretreated with chitosan, premordanted with Cu, Al and Fe. Dyeing conditions were controlled. 1. Deep color effect was shown silk. 2. Chitosan treated cotton and acrylics showed deep color effect and huge color difference before and after the experiment. 3. In chitosan treated acrylics, deep color effect were shown. It proved the good adsorption of gromwel under metal mordanting. 4. Cu showed high adsorption of gromwell and deep color effect. 5. Chitosan treated acrylics can be substitute for wool.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.124-132
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of silk fabric on gromwell roof colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as methanol ratio, colorants concentration, pH, temperature and time etc. on the dye uptake and effect of mordants and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptake. And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated far practical use. Gromwell colorants showed high affinity to silk and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type close to Nernst type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of cromwell colorants to silk fabric. Post-mordanting method gave higher K/S value than other methods, but it was not significantly different color values from unmordanted one. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed fabrics showed high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for repeatedly dyed and Fe mordanted dyed fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.709-717
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• 2010

This study investigated the properties and functions of wool and silk dyed with Catechu by examining the effects of dying conditions such as dye concentration, dying temperature, dyeing time, pH level and pre-mordants. These conditions were examined in relation to dye uptake and color changes, washing fastness, light fastness, ultraviolet-cut ability and antimicrobial ability of the dyed fabrics. Catechu showed good affinity to silk fiber. Langmuir adsorption isotherm was obtained, and so it was considered that ionic bondings are formed between Catechu and protein fiber. As the dyeing time and temperature is increased, the dyeability of both silk and wool fabrics also increases. At high temperatures the color of dyed fabrics changes from Y and YR to R. Wool is effective in using Al, Cu, Fe mordant, while silk is effective only in using only Cu mordants. The dyeability was shown to be improved at low pH levels. Additionally, both washing fastness and light fastness were shown to be low. However, the fabric color gradually changed to red was due to mailard reaction of catechol tannin causingby repeated washing and sunlight. The ultraviolet-cut ability was improved for cotton fabric dyed with Catechu. Also, dyed fabric with Catechu showed very good antimicrobial abilities at 99.9%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.79-89
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• 1998

This study was carried out the effect of stability and color extract for it's condition in the curcuma L.. dyeing. The stability is to investigate the absorbance of the curcumin, one of the major yellow pigments and the stability regarding the effect of light, oxygen temperature and pH. The dyeing condition is compared the effect of mordanting condition and the best way to extract pigment and analysed through the color-fastness rating, color-difference value test. The main results obtained are summarized as follows ; 1.The best and proper solvent to extrect curcumin pigment was a ethanol and a distilled water. 2. The light effect indicated that the absorbances of solution in absence of ligh was more stable. 3. The oxygen(O2) effect to curcumin show-ed that the condition in the absence of O2 was more stable than that in presence of O2 4. The temperature showed that the absorbnace was best stable in4$^{\circ}C$ and less changed at $25^{\circ}C$ 5. The curcumin-etanol solution was stable in pH 2~4. 6. Generally color-fastness rating to silk, wool and cotton indicated that crocking C.F. and perspiration C.F. were more than 3rd grade and dry cleaning C.F. was more than 4th grade. But light color-fastness and washing color-fastness were very poor. 7. To make good color fastness, the mordan-ting treated group and the pre-mordant conditions were more effective than others 8. When compared with color-difference value test indicated that the silk was looks like more reddish and bluish color and than the wool and cotton were greenish and bluish. As a mordant, A(C2H4OH(COOH3) and D(K2Cr2O7)were more effective to make green-ish color in the silk and the reddish color was abtained by B(Al.K(SO4)2.12H2O) and C(FeSO4.7H2O).

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.183-191
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• 2000

The dyeing of silk fabric with chinese scholar tree extract was investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water, and concentrated under reduced pressure, and, finally spray-dried. The optimum temperature and dyeing time for the dyeing of silk with the scholar tree extract was $60^\circ{C}$ and 60 minutes respectively. In mordant dyeing, pre-mordanting method was most effective for color yield, and 1~2 % of mordant concentration was acceptable. Fastness of the dyed silk fabric to laundering and rubbing was shown to be good, but fastness to light, dry cleaning, and perspiration were varied with used mordants.