• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2010

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.37-44
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• 2009

As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.60-75
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• 2016

This research was conducted to understand the different circumstances for wearing shirts by adult males aged 20-39, and to provide this basic information to the shirt industry prior to developing new functional men's shirts. A total of 345 respondents participated in the survey. Most of questionnaire, frequency, mean and standard deviation were calculated and the differences between the 20s and 30s were analyzed by t-test or ${\chi}^2$ test. The results of the survey are as follows. Grading the satisfaction degree of their body parts, the respondents were relatively unsatisfied with their height, weight, and waist, abdominal and hip circumferences. Majority preferred department stores, discount stores and outlets for purchasing shirts. Many have never owned tailored shirts - men in 20's had less experience with tailoring than men in 30's. The foremost selection criterion for purchasing shirts was fit -during purchase, men in their 20's considered fit more important than men in their 30's. The most preferred unbuttoning of the top button when wearing shirts. For favored collar shapes with one button unbuttoned, the most valued collar angle and style was V-neck shape when unbuttoned, low collar band, collar with unopened collar, and stiff collars. Most shirt designs and details included slim fit, no dart in the front and one dart on the back. Men in 20's more preferred the no dart in the front and one tuck on the back, as compared to men in 30's. On the other hand, men in their 30's preferred one dart shirts than men in 20's. Regarding shirt bands and cuffs, one button and regular collar and one button cuffs with round angle design, were the most preferred, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1286-1297
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• 2002

This study was aimed at conducting a survey and analyzing its results on the purchase and wearing conditions and design preference of sports casual wear among women and men in their twenties and thirties according to region, gender, age and income. The survey was administered using a website and was conducted among the persons who purchased sports casual wear more than once a year. The statistical results were analyzed from 497 questionnaires of respondents residing in Seoul, Gyeonggi Province, six metropolitan cities and other cities and provinces. The results of this study were summarized as follows. 1) Results of wearing conditions and preference of sports casual wear : The respondents of the survey answered that they had purchased 1 or 2 clothing items for a year and the order of buying the popular wear ranked sport shirt, jacket, trousers respectively. They chose mostly shades of gray, and the most favored design type were a chin collar, a set-in sleeves, a mixed type of band cuffs and elastic band, side zip-pockets, a full-zip front fastener, alight warm-up hood, and a small front upper chest type logo; 2)Analysis of the differences in purchase and wearing conditions in accordance with region, gender, age and income : The largest proportion of respondents who answered thar had purchased 4 or more clothing items for a year were Seoul residents and in particular the residents south of the Han river. The customers under thirty usually obtained their information about sports casual wear by visiting stores in person. The men obtain a variety of information through printed materials and related Internet sites; 3) Analysis of preferential differences of the detailed partial design : The purchasers in their 20's preferred black white, and gray patterns, however that preference shifted for those in their late 20's and the preference for pastel colors increased. The purchasers in their 20's and mid 30's had a preference for a chin collar and an eight-shaped zip type pockets. The men preferred a band cuff and a detachable hood type but women favored an elastic band and a light warm-up hood type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.147-164
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.6
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• pp.157-166
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve the current design of infant coveralls through analysis of the design preferences of Korean consumer. In order to compile the information about preferences with the detail design of infant coveralls, a questionnaire was administered to mothers of 241 infants (aged under 36 months) living in Seoul, and analyzed using the SPSS WIN.10.0 program. The results of this study were as follows : 1) Results of buying conditions and design preference of infant coverall : To the question asking what kind of materials they preferred according to the season as material for infant coverall, the respondents preferred cotton hit as the materials for summer, but padding material for winter. The most favored design type were a flat collar, regular bodice type without cutting line, a raglan sleeves, snap front fastener, elastic band cuffs. 2) There is significant difference in preferred material and design among the month of age groups. 3) Analysis of the differences in preferred material and detail design according to gender In preferred material, it seemed as if girl baby group prefer cotton knit material, while boy baby group prefer padding material. There is definite difference in preferred neckline type, girl baby group prefer flat collar, while boy baby group prefer stand collar.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.5-17
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• 1997

The porpose of this study was to know what kinds of clothes the elderly women preferred to wear according to their ages and body type and to pro-vide basic data for clothing design of the elderly women. Anthropometric analysis and questionnaire study wear done on 230 elderly women over sixty years, For analysis of the data One-way ANOVA and Chi-square were employed. The results of this study were as fol-lows: 1) The elderly women have a prefer-ance fore 'Front openning style' and 'Two-opiece style' which are easy to wear and prefer skirts to pants. 2) Their preference for clothes is de-pendent on their age rather than their body type. 3) The age is the decisive factor on blouse collar design neckline style sleeve ending skirt length location of zippe and waist band style when the select the clothes. 4) The body type is the decisive fa-ctor on jacket style skirt length and waist band style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.289-303
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• 1999

This study aimed to provide basic data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. The procedure of this study consisted of 3 parts ; 1. the survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly, 2. the market survey of dadptive dresses for the disabled elderly, 3. wearing-tests of those adaptive dresses which are in the market. The results are as follows ; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar, regular pajamas. And the most favorite design was a pajama\`s style which has no collar but has a round neckline, front opening and 7/10 length shirt\`s sleeves, with pants of an elastic band waist. And the most desirable fabric was a physiologically comfortable one. 2. The system of adaptive dress sizes for the Korean elderly consisted of 85, 95, 105 ㎝, while that for the japanese elderly was divided into F/S/M/L/LL according to gender. 3. In the case of a pajama\`s style. it is necessary for the elderly men in the facilities need bigger sizes for their jump suits. When we tested the adaptive dresses for the elderly in the nursing facilities, in the case of a pajama\`s style, it was most difficult for us to pull pants over around the buttocks. In the case of jump suits, it was most difficult for us to dress and undress the adaptive dresses around the chest.

• Korean Journal of Agricultural and Forest Meteorology
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.198-203
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• 2000

This study was conducted to investigate seasonal changes on height, root collar diameter, shoot growth, biomass and chlorophyll contents of Pinus strobus seedlings (two-year old) grown under different light environments in Sangju National University Nursery. Four shade treatments provided seedlings with full sunlight (1800 umo1 m$^{-2}$ s$^{-1}$ ), 75% of full sunlight (1350 umo1 m$^{-2}$ s$^{-1}$ ), 50% of full sunlight (900 ,umo1 m$^{-2}$ s$^{-1}$ ) and 25% of full sunlight (450 umo1 m$^{-2}$ s$^{-1}$ ). Planting density in four light intensities was 30 cm$\times$30cm. In each treatment, 10 trees were planted and height, diameter at root collar, shoot growth, biomass and chlorophyll contents (chlorophyll a, band a+ b) were measured. The highest height, root collar diameter, shoot growth and biomass in Pinus strobus seedlings were observed at full sunlight. Specially, root biomass was the most sensitive tree components part and strongly associated with decreases in the total biomass under low light intensity. The lowest chlorophyll contents (Chlorophyll a, band a+ b) were shown at 25% of sunlight, the lowest light intensity in this study.