• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.169-180
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• 2011

Objectives : This study aimed at evaluation of the effects of Rhodiola rosea on brain edema and expressions of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) related to blood-brain barrier (BBB) disruption. Methods : Brain edema following intracerebral hemorrhage (ICH) was induced by the stereotaxic intrastriatal injection of bacterial collagenase type VII in rats (Sprague-Dawley). Then ethanol extract of Rhodiola rosea was treated once a day for 3 days. Brain edema % and water contents, and BBB leakage were examined. Immunohistochemistry was processed for MMP-9, MMP-12, and iNOS expressions in the brain sections and each immuno-labeled cells were analyzed with image analysis software. Results : 1. Ethanol extract of Rhodiola rosea reduced brain edema following ICH in rats significantly. 2. Ethanol extract of Rhodiola rosea reduced excessive brain tissue water contents following ICH in rats significantly. 3. Ethanol extract of Rhodiola rosea reduced BBB leakage in the cerebral cortex following ICH in rats. 4. Ethanol extract of Rhodiola rosea reduced cellular edema of neurons in peri-hematoma and the cerebral cortex following ICH in rats significantly. 5. Ethanol extract of Rhodiola rosea reduced MMP-9 positive cells in the cerebral cortex following ICH in rats significantly. 6. Ethanol extract of Rhodiola rosea reduced MMP-12 positive vessels in the cerebral cortex following ICH in rats significantly. 7. Ethanol extract of Rhodiola rosea reduced iNOS positive cells in the cerebral cortex and external capsule following ICH in rats significantly. Conclusions : These results suggest that Rhodiola rosea reveals protective effect against brain edema and cytotoxic edema of neurons by means of down-regulation of MMPs and iNOS expressions, and inhibition of BBB leakage.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2011

The Echinacea, which has been commonly known as a species of composite herb of dicotyledonous plant, has been used in native American traditional medicine for the treatment of diseases like colds or other infections in North America. We artificially cultured the adventitious roots of Echinacea angustifolia using the bioreactor culture system from Echinacea angustifolia and evaluated the efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. Several studies previously have reported neogenesis, wound healing and inflammatory inhibition effect of Echinacea angustifolia but other efficacies were not well known. In the present study, we investigated the cosmetic efficacy to know applicable value of adventitious roots cultured from Echinacea angustifolia as a cosmetic ingredient. The adventitious roots extract of Echinacea angustifolia has superior anti-oxidant effect and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory effect, compared to natural Echinacea angustifolia. These results indicate that the adventitious roots extract cultured from Echinacea angustifolia presents a new possibility of being applicable to skin care and anti-wrinkle products as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.281-287
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• 2021

In this study, we analyzed the cosmetic applicability of extract from snow tea, native to Lijiang, Yunnan-province, China. After confirming the species as N. grossedentata through DNA analysis of Lijiang snow tea, experiments were conducted using representative tea, green tea, and a representative control group for each efficacy analysis. Both teas were extracted using 70% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. The polyphenol content in the Lijiang snow tea extract (gallic acid equivalent, 23.9 ± 3.2 mg/mL) was higher than that in green tea extract (16.4 ± 2.3 mg/mL). In contrast, the antioxidant (Radical scavenging, IC₅₀ 104 ㎍/mL), tyrosinase enzyme inhibitory (whitening agent, IC₅₀ 40.7 ㎍/mL), and Escherichia coli growth inhibitory (preservative) activities (IC₅₀ 2.85 mg/mL) were analyzed based on the solid content in the extract, and it was confirmed that the activities of Lijiang snow tea extract were superior to those of green tea extract (radical scavenging, IC₅₀ 234 ㎍/mL. It also showed similar efficacy to previously used active substances such as antioxidants (vitamin C, IC₅₀ 108 ㎍/mL), whitening agents (vitamin C, IC₅₀ 80㎍/mL), and preservatives (methylparaben, IC₅₀ 4.35 mg/mL). However, green tea was found to be better in collagenase inhibition activity (anti-wrinkle). Through this study, the cosmetic application potential of Lijiang snow tea is high.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.141-147
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• 2018

This study aimed to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, and kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol types contained in grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE). It utilized grape stems discarded after harvest to measure the effects of GPSE on skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, and anti-inflammatory activity on the damaged skin of HR-1 mice induced with ultraviolet B (UVB), and to verify the applicability of GPSE as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The polyphenol was extracted from grape pruning stems with 80% EtOH, and then the extract was used while storing at $-20^{\circ}C$, after filtering, concentrating, and freeze-drying it. The content of an active ingredient of GPSE was analyzed using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). From 53 kg of the grape pruning stem specimen, 2.34 kg of the EtOH fraction extracts were extracted to achieve a 4.42% yield ratio. Analysis of the active ingredients showed 0.28 mg/g of procyanidin B3, 12.81 mg/g of rutin, 0.51 mg/g of quercetin, and 8.24 mg/g of kaempferol. After UVB irradiation on the dermis, to confirm the degree of inhibition of collagen synthesis, we examined the protein expression of MMP-9 using immunohistochemical staining. The results of this study confirm the existence of active polyphenol types, such as rutin, kaempferol, quercetin, and procyanidin B3, in GPSE. Moreover, the study found that GPSE has anti-collagenase effects and it decreases the effects of UV damage on skin barrier function. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and it has high utilization potential as an ingredient for functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.63-71
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• 2004

The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke, chemicals. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. These irritants are in themselves damaging to the skin structure but they also participate the immensely complex inflammatory reaction. The purpose of this study was to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Juniperus chinensis xylem extract on the UV and SLS-induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. We found that Juniperus chinensis xylem extracts had potent radical scavenging effect by 98％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase-l(MMP-1, collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UV A induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79％ at 25 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. In this test Juniperus chinensis decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30％. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$, (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. At the concentrations of 5-50 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of the extracts, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 hours after 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p〈0.05). The viability of cultured HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly reduced at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB irradiation, but the presence of these extracts improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. We also investigated the protective effect of this extract in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced irritant skin reactions from 24 hour exposure. Twice a day application of the extract for reducing local inflammation in human skin was done. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin condition, that is, erythema (skin color reflectance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). After 5 days the extract was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and improve barrier regeneration when compared to untreated symmetrical test site. In conclusion, our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions such as radical production, inflammation and skin cell damage.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.227-233
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• 2004

Chronic exposure to solar radiation, particularly ultraviolet (UV) light, causes a variety of adverse reactions on human skin, such as sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. And, repeated-UV irradiation activated the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and induced skin irritation. Therefore, the development of effective and safe photoprotectants that can reduce and improve the skin damage has been required. The purpose of this study was to investigate the photo-protective effect of several chinese medical plants (Juniperus chinensis) on the UV -induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$ (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay(EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. In the human skin we tested anti-irritation effect on the SLS-induced damage skin after appling the extract containing emulsion. We found that Juniperus chinensis extract had potent radical scavenging effect by 98% at 100$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97% at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79% at 25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. In the test of proinflammatory cytokines of human keratinocytes Juniperus chinensis extract decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30%. The amount of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly increased at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB (p < 0.05). At the concentrations of 3.2-25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of this extract, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 h after 10mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p < 0.05). In SLS-induced skin irritation model in vivo, we found to reduce skin erythema and improve barrier recovery after appling Juniperus chinensis extract containing emulsion when compared to irritated non-treated and placebo-treated skin. Our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis extract can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions and applied as anti-aging and anti-irritation cosmetics.