• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.131-145
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• 2020

As the population of consumers of outdoor wear expands, there is increasing interest among consumers in trendy lifestyle outdoor. Accordingly, it is essential to develop designs that are drawn from outdoor wear. This can be limited to traditional mountaineering suits, and designs developed from men's outdoor zip-up T-shirts, which are highly utilized in everyday life, are very important. This study developed the design of a summer zip-up T-shirt for men with both functional and aesthetic qualities. Visual images of foreign brands and domestic outdoor-focused T-shirts from the spring/summer seasons of 2013-2019 were collected to analyze the following modeling elements: silhouettes, details, colors, materials, and prints. In addition, the design concept was derived by analyzing presentations from the global outdoor trade Fairs (2013-2019). To develop a sustainable eco-friendly outdoor summer T-shirt for men, the concept was derived according to three categories: eco-friendly, sportism-expressed active elements of sports, and an outro-concept of urban town wear as an outdoor lifestyle. Thus, a total of 12 styles of design were developed. High utilization of the outdoor wear T-shirts (which are also popular as lifestyle wear), is an important aspect of building a segmented lineup of the slow-growing outdoor wear market and supports expansion of the scope of theoretical research on outdoor wear design.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-4
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• 2010

The hand printed cottons of India are historically world-renowned for their rich fast colours, elaborate designs, and matchless quality. Until the discovery of synthetic dyestuffs in the latter part of the nineteenth century, the unsurpassed master dyers of cotton were the craftsmen of India-birthplace of cultivated cotton. The Indian printers and dyers monopolised this arcane art of permeating cotton cloth with richly hued, colour-fast designs, and the fruits of their labour proved hugely influential in international trade and the development of modern textile technologies. This paper focuses on a lesser-known body of hand printed cottons, traditionally produced in rural Rajasthan for everyday use by the local pastoral communities. Drawing on extensive research carried out with the region's Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, the complex and multiple applications of mordant, dye and resist are illustrated. Often taking months to complete, the enduring popularity of these labour-intensive hand printed cottons is then discussed, particularly in the light of the hugesocial importance borne by cloth in Rajasthan. Cloth and clothing are widely recognised as indicators of social status, gender, rank, and individual and group affiliations. In addition, cloth and clothing have been established as indicators of social, economic, political and technological change. The paper concludes by drawing attention to the recent influx of machine-printed polyester textiles, often replicating the designs or colours of the traditional locally produced cottons. Thus women of the region, whilst using these modern synthetic textiles as part of newer ways of expressing their identity, also visibly retain the values associated with hand printed cottons and traditional dress codes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1069-1084
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• 2011

This study investigates the main trend of LOHAS, examines and analyzes the LOHAS marketing cases of the fashion industry, and proposes an effective LOHAS marketing strategy for the domestic fashion market. Data were collected from Naver, Google and Daum from 2005 (when LOHAS began to be recognized) to October $31^{st}$ 2010. We searched the research material with keywords related to the research subject (such as eco, green, well being, echo-friendly, LOHAS, sustainable, environmental management, and green management) to conduct a theoretical and exploratory study through qualitative analysis. The data are analyzed with three types such as personal value of eco-friendly fabric, economical value of recycled fabric and re-use or re-form, and social-ethical value of distribution and promotion. The research results show that LOHAS marketing activities focused on personal values and social-ethical values (rather than economical value) and from an eco-friendly management centered on merchandise; in addition, an eco-friendly supply chain management incorporated with a management system were applied. LOHAS marketing strategies at home and abroad revealed some differences in the cases of eco-friendly fabric, recycling, and fair trade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.46-55
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to constitute the historical connection of apparel industry by investigation on development and upbringing policy of our apparel industry. Because of the administrative idea of Chosun period is Confucian idea and feudal class system based on the Confucianism, the agricultural industry is the most important one, and developed the economic thinking system that agricultural industry is the foundation of clothes and food industry. In the clothing manufacture of Chosun period, a garment which used in the royal household selected manual industry form by government establishment, but a garment which used in the people selected manual industry form of private. The commerce of Chosun period is based on the official commerce (Sijeon) connected with the official system of state and the private commerce is operated by private trader. Among the item which was traded on the market in this times, the cloting item is the important trade item second only to the grain, and was dealed with every market in the country.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.16-29
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• 2022

Environmental problems increasingly serious, and sustainability in the fashion industry has become an essential factor. Nowadays, numerous brands are engaging in sustainable fashion activities, such as recycling, vegan, fair trade, etc., which have not been done before. However, there are limited studies about sustainable fashion activities focusing on luxury brands. The purpose of this study is to establish the current status of luxury brands' sustainable fashion activities based on the macro trend of Todeschini et al(2017)'s thesis. This study selected six global luxury fashion brands Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Prada, Burberry, and Stella McCartney. Data were collected from the brand's websites and reports, fashion magazines, and Google. As a result of the study, the following adjustments are being implemented; first, efforts are being made to reduce the consumption of natural resources. Second, transparency on working conditions is provided in various ways. Third, luxury brands' awareness of the sharing economy was not opened. Fourth, efforts are being made to develop eco-friendly materials and technologies to minimize wastage. Based on these research results, if applied as basic data for the development of Korean fashion brands and start-up companies, it will help establish directions of sustainable fashion strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.207-220
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• 2017

Today, the fashion industries, which are appearing in the world, can satisfy their economic needs, as well as provide and distribute their products in order to introduce sustainable methods and avoid becoming a bad influence on future generations. Recently, SPA brands have contributed to the sustainable development of society with different kinds of products, such as organic, recycled and environmental products. For this research, among different SPA brands, we chose H&M as the most representative one. Using Russian and Korean consumers as examples, we analyzed how sustainable activities affect a consumer's ethical consciousness, brand loyalty and purchase intention. The results of this study show that firstly, all sustainable activities have positive effects on the ethical consciousness of Russian and, in particular, Korean consumers. Secondly, ethical consciousness has a positive effect on brand loyalty, which, in turn, has a positive effect on purchase intention. Consequently, by adding to the existing sustainable and cultural activities, we can propose new perspectives for future research on sustainability. Due to the effect on a consumer's ethical consciousness, future research might consider ethical consciousness as the main factor. By focusing on H&M as a representative of SPA brands with Russian and Korean consumers as target audiences, we can advise global SPA brands on the direction of their sustainable activities and exporting of their products to foreign markets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2014

This study analyzes the styles of Baekje costumes by examining costume types and styles based on the research of old books and a comparative study of archaeological and historical Baekje art relics in Central Asia. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Through the comparative study of the records of old books, relic materials (Yangjikgongdo, Mural paintings of Takamatsuzuka Tumulus, Cheonsuguk Mandarasujang, Shosoin relics, and Haniwas), we can see that ancient Japanese costumes were influenced by the culture of Baekje costumes. 2. A comparative study of the records of relic materials of Baekje and Central Asia show that there were vigorous interchanges between the East and West. 3. Baekje costumes showed a great diversity in styles because they were based on Buyeo costumes developed in conjunction with vigorous overseas trade. 4. Baekje's upper garments are summarized as Boksam and Po for men and Yu, Banbi and Euisapo for women. Boksam and Yu styles varied as tunics and overlapped jackets with straight and round collars. Two types of sleeves coexisted. The sleeves of Hansung Baekje period were a diagonal lined style that was wide on the armhole and narrow on the wrist. The sleeves of Sabi Baekje period were a reversed diagonal lined style that is narrow on the armhole and wide on the wrist. Pants styles were summarized as Gon, Gunggo and Daegugo. There were not enough relics and references for the Baekje costumes; however, this study widens the possibility of the existence of various styles of Baekje costumes through inferences from available data.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.136-150
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• 2015

The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.474-485
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the determinants and elements to enhance Korean international competitiveness, employing Porter's(1998) Diamond Model. Half of the 500 leading apparel exporters that were members of the Korea Apparel Industry Association in 2003 were selected as the target of this research. From May to June of 2003, survey questionnaires were sent to executives of these 250 companies in person or by telephone, e-mail, or fax. Seventy questionnaires were used for the final data anlysis. The items used were Reliability, Categorical Regression, and Frequency, using SPSS 11.5. The results were as follows: First, as a result of analyzing the influence of international competitiveness in Korean apparel industry, the firm's strategy, structure, and rivalry was the most influential factor. Others were related and supporting industries, government, chance, demand conditions, and factor conditions. Also, the elements that affect Korean international competitiveness were listed as the level of price competition in foreign markets, the level of labor cost, export marketing capacity, and exchange fluctuation. The most important element to improve the international competitiveness of the Korean apparel industry was a demand growth rate of the overseas markets(Demand Conditions), followed by the level of the labor costs(Factor Conditions), the capability of internationalization(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry), the change of currency(Chance), the quality and management of products(Demand Conditions), the capability of planning products(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry), free trade from 2005(Chance), and global sourcing strategy(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry). Korea's main rival country in apparel related and supporting industry factors is China. However, Korea has a higher level of technology development, quality, and price level than China.