• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.204-221
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• 2020

훈의문화는 동아시아에서 공유한 문화이다. 해양 실크로드의 번영과 향재의 교역은 향 문화를 발달하게 해준 직접적인 요인이라 할 수 있다. 따라서 향 문화의 발달 시기는 교역의 시작시기와 유사하게 나타난다. 훈의(熏衣)는 향을 태운 연기로 향을 입히는 용법이다. 중국은 한대(漢代)부터 합향을 제조하였으며, 훈롱(熏籠)을 사용한 기록이 있어 훈의향을 합향으로 제조한 것으로 추정된다. 이후 당대(唐代)에 향료의 교역이 활발해지면서, 『천금요방』, 『향보』, 『향승』 등에 훈의향의 제조법과 훈의 기술이 나타나고 『계해우형지』와 『제번지』 등의 서적을 통해서도 향료의 교역국과 교역품을 확인할 수 있다. 이러한 훈의향의 제조법과 용법이 기록된 문헌과 훈의에 필요한 도구들을 통하여 연구를 진행하였다. 한국에는 불교의 전래와 함께 향이 소개되었다. 『매신라물해』의 기록을 통하여 일본과의 향 교역 사실을 확인할 수 있으며, 훈의향이라는 교역품이 기록되어 있어 신라시대부터 훈의를 시행한 것으로 추정할 수 있다. 향재의 교역이 융성하였던 고려시대에는 인삼과 함께 사향을 수출하였다. 왕실에서는 송(宋)으로부터 하사받은 향을 사용하였으며, 부인들은 향낭류의 패식향을 선호하였다. 패식향의 선호가 조선시대에도 이어져 조선시대에는 훈의의 기록을 찾기 어렵다. 조선시대에는 패식향의 사용, 향로에 피운 향의 냄새가 간접적으로 의복에 스며드는 방식, 그리고 옷장에 의향을 넣어두는 간접적인 방향을 선호한 것으로 추정된다. 일본은 『매신라물해』의 기록을 통하여 신라를 통해 향을 교역한 사실을 알 수 있다. 헤이안 시대 궁정 소설 『겐지이야기』를 보면 당시 귀족들의 향 문화와 훈의문화, 향 교역을 추정 할 수 있다. 일본의 훈롱은 필수 혼수품으로 자리 잡았으며, 그에 따라 실용적인 형태로 발달하고 장식성이 가미되었다. 베트남 남부의 점성국이 훈의를 시행한 사실은 『제번지』에 직접적으로 기록되어 있다. 베트남 북부의 교지국이 훈의를 행하였다는 직접적인 기록은 찾기 어렵다. 그러나 중국과 복식 문화가 같다는 기록과 훈의를 행하였던 국가인 중국과 점성국에 인접하였다는 점, 그리고 향료의 원산지라는 점에서 훈의문화를 공유하였을 것으로 추정할 수 있다. 동아시아의 한·중·일, 그리고 베트남은 훈의를 시행하는 문화를 공유하였다. 이를 통해 훈의향의 목적과 발달 시기, 훈의향의 제작, 훈의법, 훈의 도구, 훈의를 하는 사람의 성별 그리고 사용한 향재에서 공통성을 찾을 수 있다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.468-478
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to examine the differences in appearance management behaviors and demographic variables among groups classified by the appearance management motives. The questionaries are administerd to 493 female and male adults above 20 years old in Seoul, Kyeonggi-do, Daegu and Kyungpook regions. For analysis of data from 478 respondents, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, ANOVA, Duncan test and ${\chi}^2$ test were applied. We show the following results: First, factor analysis for appearance management motives extracted three factors such as self-development, emphasis on the trendy appearance, and sexual appealing motive. Factor analysis for appearance management behaviors extracted four factors such as weight training, surgery/skin care, hair care and clothing selection. Second, three groups of the appearance management motives were classified into such as the social self-management type, the sexual appealing self-management type, the passive appearance management type. The social self-management groups are more interested in self-development, emphasis on the trendy appearance, and sexual appealing motive. And they are also more involved in appearance management behaviors: clothing selection is the most pursuing appearance management behavior. Third, among the demographic variables, the single and female in 20s and 30s with higher level of education belonged to the social self-management group. In this contribution, we find significant differences in the appearance management behavior and demographic variables classified by the appearance management motives.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권7호
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• pp.958-969
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• 2002

No one doubts that textile and apparel industries have contributed to economic miracles of the export-led growth in Korea. However, by the turning of 1990′s, these sectors have encountered many problems such as decreasing of domestic production and exports mainly due to wage rise and shortage. Therefore, foreign direct investment to the low labor cost countries has been enlarged for a way of improving its competitiveness and increasing exports. However, no intensive study has been made exploring current investments and future directions. This study focuses Vietnam as one of the promising overseas investment countries. The purposes of this study are to analyze current investment status of Korean textiles and apparel firms in Vietnam, to explore merits and problems Vietnam has, and to present useful implications and strategies for Korean textiles and apparel companies. Analysis of current secondary data suggests that Korean apparel industry, rather than textiles industry, have invested more in Vietnam, mostly in southern Ho Chi Minh City. Investments of Korean apparel and textile firms have shown steady increase from 1990 but have turned to a decrease from 1995. Findings suggested that Vietnam has merits for attracting foreign investment since it provides relatively cheap labor and outstanding skillful hands suitable for apparel and textiles industries. In addition, because of EU quota increase and the trade agreement between Vietnam and USA it is likely for firms in Vietnam to increase exports to EU and USA Rapid expansion of domestic apparel market and "Korean trend (Han Rue)" in Vietnam resulted from successful star marketing of Korean firms are another merits Vietnam has to the Korean fm. However, regulations of central government, low efficiency of bureaucratic and stiff administrative process, difficulty of making decision in case of joint venture, lack of social overhead capital, high factory construction costs, weak construction condition, and the excessive competition among investment enterprises have found to be problems. Based on pros and cons of investment to Vietnam, marketing strategies, practical implications and future directions were suggested.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권5호
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• pp.779-803
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• 2023

The growth of digital news media and the stock price index has resulted in economic fluctuations in the fashion industry. This study examines the impact of fashion industry news and macroeconomic changes on the Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI over the past five years. An auto-regressive integrated moving average exogenous time series model was conducted using the fashion industry stock market index, the news topic index, and macro-economic indicators. The results indicated the topics of "Cosmetic business expansion" and "Digital innovation" impacted the Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI after one week, and the topics of "Pop-up store," "Entry into the Chinese fashion market," and "Fashion week and trade show" affected it after two weeks. Moreover, the topics of "Cosmetic business expansion" and "Entry into the Chinese fashion market" were statistically significant in the macroeconomic environment. Regarding the effect relation of Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI, "Cosmetic business expansion," "Entry into the Chinese fashion market," and consumer price fluctuation showed negative effects, while the private consumption change rate, producer price fluctuation, and unemployment change rate had positive effects. This study analyzes the impact of media framing on fashion industry business cycles and provides practical insights into managing stock market risk for fashion companies.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.59-76
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• 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has brought about environmental severity and new social, economic, and cultural changes. Conscious fashion, which is oriented to sustainable and valuable consumption, has become a trend to consume products produced using eco-friendly and ethical processes, from the selection of the product materials to the manufacturing process. The purpose of this study is to identify the concepts and characteristics of conscious fashion and zero waste, and to explore design trends of zero wastein the new normal era of conscious fashion through the analysis of various cases. The research method is a literature review on conscious fashion based on relevant professional and academic books and articles, designer collections, and campaigns from 2010 to the present, when conscious fashion as eco-friendliness and sustainable fashion became a trend. The concept and characteristics of conscious fashion were examined them in terms of environmental, ethical, social, and cultural aspects and the concept and characteristics of zero waste through previous studies and case analysis. Through this, the trends of zero-waste design in conscious fashion were categorized into: first, an eco-friendly design orientation that utilizes reuse and reduce methods of clothing and fabric; second, a variable design orientation that practices zero waste designs by using diversity of patterns through deconstruction, disassembly, and various cutting methods. Third, long-term circulation of design through the recycling of resources by second-hand trade, the utilization of stock clothing, resale, and availability of eco-friendly materials through the development of new technologies. As an active practice for the sustainable fashion industry expands, it is expected that continuous research will be conducted as a future core value to realize the possibility of long-term circular zero-waste design through social responsibility and conscious recycling, reuse, and reproduction.

• 무역학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.63-107
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• 2016

본 논문에서는 우리나라의 15개 FTA를 대상으로 HS코드 6단위, 15가지 품목군 별로 엄격성지수를 도출, 분석하고 이를 토대로 원산지결정기준의 국가별, 시기별, 품목별 현황과 특성을 제시하였다. 분석결과 EU와 터키와의 FTA가 가장 높은 엄격성을 나타낸 반면 뉴질랜드, 페루, 인도와의 FTA는 가장 낮은 것으로 나타났다. 또한, 유럽권 FTA를 제외하고는 시간이 지남에 따라 엄격성 정도가 완화되고 있는 추세로 나타났다. 산업별로는 1차산품과 가공식품, 의류/직물/잡화의 품목에서는 엄격성지수가 높았고 반면 일반기계, 전기기계, 화학제품, 정밀기기에서는 낮게 나타났다. 이러한 결과는 관세율이 높고 경쟁력이 취약한 민감품목은 엄격하게, 교역활성화를 위한 품목들은 유연하게 설정하고 있음을 의미한다. 본 논문은 방대한 분량의 우리나라 FTA의 원산지결정기준을 체계적으로 분류하고 이를 근거로 국가별, 품목별로 엄격성지수와 원산지결정기준을 도출, 집대성했다는 데에 그 의의가 있다. 또한 향후 우리나라 FTA의 원산지결정기준의 방향성에 대한 시사점을 제공할 수 있는 2차 자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.83-95
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• 2012

This study aims to develop the 21st century eco design-based fashion products by examining Taller Flora products and presenting eco design approaches. Eco design terms were examined based on literature, and Taller Flora products were explored based on literature and websites. The following research issues were discussed. First, eco design terms are totally handled, thus defining the eco design. Second, eco design-oriented Taller Flora products are examined to explore design approaches. Eco design aims to conserve and heal the global environment with focus on a greater understanding of and interest in nature. As such, eco design is based on a new modern concept of aestheticism that seeks to minimize environmental damage caused by the three processes of production and distribution use and disposal, to take social and moral responsibilities for such activities, and to avoid hurting the environment. Taller Flora brands seek to produce products by keeping close ties with indigenous communities in various nations, and by emphasizing and embracing indigenous people's craftsmanship spirit and creativity Indigenous people use eco-friendly materials and produce products with craftsmanship spirit, and their cooperation by linking different cooperative networks is a good model for strengthening fair trade networks. These addresses the problem of expanding design work through traditional crafting. Therefore, the features of Taller Flora brands presented a new method to approach the eco fashion. The research findings are expected to help develop the eco design of fashion products.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.135-148
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to examine changes in Japanese fashion design through analysis of the background and characteristics of 'Japanesque Modern'. With the advent of globalization and pressures to enhance international competitiveness, key players in both Japanese government and industry feel an urgent need to establish a distinctive brand for its products. 'Japanesque Modern' was launched in January 2006 as a nationwide campaign through the support of the Japanese Ministry of International Trade and Industry (MITI). 'Japanesque Modern' strives to be a national movement, enhancing Japan's brand image while promoting continuous industrial innovation. 'Japanesque Modern' unites Japanese culture, design, and aesthetics with advanced technology, bringing traditional concepts to enrich contemporary life styles. In order to exemplify the 'Japanesque Modern' ideal, existing market products and content that reflect the concept were selected for the 'Japanesque Modern Collection' by the Japanesque Modern Council. In making these selections, the Council emphasized criteria based on three Japanese spiritual values: Craftsmanship; Manner; and Hospitality. As a result, three designs concepts have emerged in the 'Japanesque Modern Collection': the 'convergent method'; the 'conversion method'; and the 'emphasis method'. This research will explore these design concepts and their relationship to 'Japanesque Modern'.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.41-54
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to trace the development of cotton Early Chosun Period by examining the historical literary sources : such as production of cotton various uses of cotton trade with other countries The developement process of cotton fabrics during this period can be divided into three stages. The first stage which can be discribed as a settling period lasted 27 years from A.D. 1392 to 1418. In this stage cotton fabrics were just about to be used as fabrics for popular clothing. The second stage which can be discribed as a developmental period lasted 50 years from A. D.1418 to 1468. In this stage cotton fabrics were mainly produced in the southern parts of the country which are Kyungasng-Do, Choongcheng-Do and Jeunla-Do. And cotton fabrics were used not only by the common people but also by the royal family. The third stage, that is the last one was an extensive period and lasted from A.D.1469 to 1592. In this stage as the demand for cotton fabrics greatly increased the production from southern parts of the country fell in short of the supply needed. Therefore the production was extended to the northwestern parts. In addition cotton fabrics finally came to be used as money to value the goods.