• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to present a new viewpoint in look by closely examining fashion and look through the past, present, and future. Specifically, the concept of time is studied and fashion is considered based upon the concept of time, finally, looks in fashion related to time are analysed. For this study, the literature of retro, modern, contemporary, futuristic looks that express the past, present, and future, and the classic look, the popularity of which transcends the concept of time was considered focusing on 20th century women's fashion. Design characteristics of these looks were analyzed utilizing photographs of collection images. The results of the study are as follows: first, although the retro look of different periods regularly rotate and appear, they change and develop in new and various ways depending on the Periodic background of the time they appear in, and thus show simultaneously the cyclical and straight nature of time. Second, the modern look includes not only the moaning of time concept of the present, but also of interpreting anew the formal significance of modernism in the present. In other words, because it cyclically repeats the times of past modern periods, the look can be said to focus on the cyclical nature of time. Third, the contemporary look is a style that expresses current time most exactly as it exists, and it can be said to be the look in which current time is most vividly expressed. Fourth, the time concept in futuristic look is a subjective time that selectively accommodates and expresses the objective time of the future which has not yet come, and that can be the look's most important point. Last, the classic look possesses an objective value that transcends the concept of time, and it keeps returning, showing the cyclical nature of time. The closer this study came to the present, it could be seen that a look communicated more complex meanings, Influenced by periodic phases such as diversification, individualization, and eclecticism, and that while it could not be defined as any one look, various elements were expressed eclectically by being mixed and matched with each other, and it could utilize more natural forms, colors, and materials.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to discover the source of the force that has continously pertained it through the years. Following the flow of the times, the Chanel Style has transformed and developed through the styles of the sporty look, the russian look, the gar onne look, the romantic look, and the classic look. Not only has Chanel created classic designs that transcend time, but she has created clothing that is very feminine and full of wit in the evening wear. She has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The Chanel Style was expressed by simplicity, funtionality, sensuality, and amusement. Simplicity to Chanel was an important element that expresses both youth and casual characteristics and the use of jersy and the color black has resulted in a functional simplicity. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a subtle, moderate, and a unobtrusive sauve sensibility is expressed in the Chanel Style. Also pleasure can be observed in the costume jewelry that gives one enjoyment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.734-746
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the influence of women's self-image on image evaluation of clothing self-image, and on their selection of clothing styles by situations. The subject of investigation was 500 women above 20 living in Daegu. 6 types of clothing styles including classic, casual, elegant, dramatic, romantic, and mannish and 7 social situations including shopping near house, shopping in a busy street, cultural center, wedding ceremony, dinning out, alumni meeting or fraternity meeting, and couples meeting were used for this study. Data analysis was performed using SPSS package, which included factor analysis, reliability test, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and X²-test. The results are summarized as follows. 1. Adult women could be classified into 4 groups such as the passive mannish, the passive feminine, the active mannish, and the active feminine by their self-images. 2. There were different opinions on each clothing style by self-image. In the image of each clothing style by self-image groups, the passive feminine group considered classic style having effect to make people look tall, mature and elegant style to make people look active and charming. Also, they rated the boldness of dramatic style and the activeness of mannish style high. The active feminine group estimated the boldness of mannish style high. 3. Selection of clothing style differed according to various situations. More formal the situation was, more classic style tended to be selected and for less formal situation, mannish style was selected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.321-337
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• 1992

Fashions are constantly subject to change, so that forecasting trends in fashion is very difficult and the forecasting is very important. The reason is that forecasting is identifying a hot trend for the next days' business and projecting the future. The purpose of this study is to suggest the realistic forecasting theory identify fashion trends at present, further forecast fashion trends to 1995. For this study, historical models (th historical resurrection model, the historical continuity model) and the art movement model among the behavioral science models which was suggested in 1986 by Geoge B.Sproles were selected. According to this study, was exhibited. This curve was resulted from relation between 1980s fashion trends and the behavioral science models of fashion. Fashion trends to 1995 through will be followings; 1. Body Conscious look as one of the characteristics of modern fashion will bi continued throughout 1990s' fashion trends. 2. The attraction of Mini style was started from the middle of 1980s, recently gets near micro mini and super shouts, These are representative of the historical continuity model. 3. Mini look as revivals of '60s in early 1990s fashion trends. This phenomenon identifies that "Fashion is repetition" 4. When Mini look and super shorts reach, will not progress any more. In this time, will bi seen transfer of style be using classic style. Tat is modern classic will be appeared. also this condition is same from late 1960s to early 1970s. In view of the historical base, the action of the varieted pants will be prominent. 5. Fashion trends which passed through this process will transfer from young look to elegant look. In this time, designers will retrospect '30s and '50s fashion trends, and then will design modern feminine look. 6. Ethnic look, the fashion trend after that condition will be accelated feminine look. This look with the feminine look will reveal rich, colorful, elegance feminine image. 7. In 1980s, activity and function in clothes were demanded. The clothes which are considered these condition will be demanded continuously. 8. The variety of fashion will appear as mixmode and new coordinate look in a clothes simultaneously in fashion of '90s. And these looks will creat mixed beauty. 9. Pop art, op art, graphic art will be not only development of textile but also movement of fashion soul in 1990s. The fashion behavior will be continuously scientificated.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.30-43
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the ladylike style of Grace Kelly focusing on her costume design of 1950s movie and star image, and to understand how she became a fashion icon today. Her city elegant look was usually composed of A line or H line suits and dresses, pearl jewelry, gloves, handbags and her classic ladylike attitude. Kelly's luxury casual look epitomized a relaxed elegance based on the American sporting image including the Hermes "Kelly" bag. Her sexual elegant look showed the combination of freshness, ladylike virtue and underlying sex appeal. Her self-confident, ladylike style appeals to modern fashionable women who likes to be elegant but also sexy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.95-106
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• 2012

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (July 28, 1929 - May 19, 1994) was served as First Lady of the United States in the early 1960s. Her fashion styles are analyzed into the elements of designs, and the features of Jackie look are assorted. A variety of sources about women's suits for the 21st century are suggested in the research. Jackie's taste in fashion, her fashion image are searched. In addition, after Jackie, other nine fashionable First Ladies' evening dresses are compared to Jackie's dresses so as to see if there are similarities between their styles. Based on this data, the typical First Lady's look is classifiable. The purpose of this study is to furnish the industry with basic information which helps create high value fashion design. Most of Jackie's evening dresses had the straight - sheath silhouettes, and the round or bateau necklines without collars. Pale tones like white predominated in her dresses, and patternless colorful silk, silky and bright texture of cloth was used for the dresses. Elegance and classic represented her image. Design features of Jackie look are the straight silhouette, the simple line excluded adornments, and the fine quality of cloth. There has been little change in other nine First Ladies' evening dresses since Jackie. They weren't influenced by the vogue at that time, but they kept the style the way Jackie did. Jackie style is the beginning of the typical first lady look, that is.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.529-541
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of PRADA's sports fashion, leading the fashion trend and one of the most influenced designers in 1990's, and thereby, helps to forecast them in the future. We studied the concept of sports fashion and the historic background of PRADA sports fashion. We also used corroborative method resolving Internet illustrated magazine, fashion journals and magazines so as to analyze the aesthetic and formative features from 1990's up to now. The results were summarized as follows ; The sports fashion in 1990's was classified into functional sportswear and town sports look. The functional sportswear can be separated into active sportswear and street sportswear. Town sports look that has been combined the elements of design in active sportswear had characters slim silhouette and simple details influenced by minimalism and reflected on the mainstream of 1990's lifestyle. Especially, PRADA's town-wear using high-tec textiles for sportswear affected on other couturiers and settled down them in the world wide fashion trend with her aesthetic expression. The aesthetic characteristics of PRADA's sports fashion appear the zenith of the minimalism and the elements of postmodernism which expressed remarkably the advanced future and familiar past at the same time as like high-tec materials, and classic silhouettes with functional details. Finally, we are able to anticipate that the aesthetics of PRADA sports look will be continued in the 21C with concerning about well-being, health, and sports & leisure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.726-740
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating the classic style suits-middle aged women's body construct for their more attractive fashion styles. The styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines, etc.), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket (flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. A middle aged woman on skirts suits look more graceful, more elegant, and a bit more refined than that on slacks suits. 2. A middle aged woman wearing a jacket with flap pockets on looks more balanced, and graceful than when wearing with no pockets. 3. Wearing closed jackets looks more balanced and graceful than on opened jackets. 4. The types of collar·necklines can be called the details which put much influence on Image effects. Putting on tailored collar suits is the most graceful, refined, balanced and harmonious case than any others.