• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.399-408
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• 2019

Arbutin, which is used as a whitening ingredient, can produce hydroquinone, known as causing skin disease and carcinogen. Preservatives are essential to prevent microbial contamination during long-term storage and use of cosmetics, but safety issues such as toxicity and skin irritation are being raised. This study was conducted to determine hydroquinone and 21 preservatives levels in 40 arbutin-containing whitening functional cosmetics sold on-line and off-line. Result showed that 9 products contained hydroquinone. The concentrations in 7 products were ranged from 0.3 to 0.9 ppm, which were within the maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. However, 2 products were 8.4 and 50.5 ppm and exceeded the allowed amount. Preservatives were detected 20 products. Detected items and ranges were phenoxy ethanol 0.1 ~ 0.7% (N = 15), Methyl paraben 0.19 ~ 0.21% (N = 2), Chlorphenesin 0.13% (N = 1), chlorhexidine 0.006% (N = 1), Propyl paraben 0.06% (N = 1), which were within maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. Also, in cases of functional cosmetics the phrase "functional cosmetics" should be expressed on the primary or secondary package of cosmetics by cosmetics act. However, 1 product did not state the phrase as functional cosmetics. This study suggest that preservatives were safely managed. However, hydroquinone in hydroquinone-detected products could be produced by the decomposition of arbutin. Thus, further studies on the decomposition of arbutin are required to improve the quality control of the cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.111-115
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• 2007

It is inevitable to use germicidal agents like parabens, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin to preserve the cosmetics. Although effective in reducing microblological contamination, chemical preservatives are irritative, allergenic and even toxic to human skin. So it is needed to decrease or eliminate usage of preservatives in cosmetic products Glycerin, butylene glycol (BG), prorylene glycol (PG), and dipropylene glycol (DPG) are widely used in cosmetics as skin conditioning agent or solvents. At high concentrations, they have antimicrobial activities, but deteriorate product quality like sensory feeling or safety. The purpose of study is to evaluate the effects of polyols on antimicrobial and preservative efficacy and confirm whether using adjusted polyols can decrease the contents of preservatives without deterioration of the quality of cosmetics. Effects of common polyols on antimicrobial activities of general preservatives were measured. BG and PG significantly (p < 0.05) increased activities of preservatives, but glycerin influenced little. It was inferred from the regression analysis of the results with S. aureus that adding 1% of PG increased activities of preservatives up to $2.1{\sim}8.4 %$ and BG improved activities of preservatives up to $1.8{\sim}8.4 %$. The challenge test results for oil in water lotions and creams showed that BG and PG improved the efficacy of preservative systems up to 40 % at a range of $5.5{\sim}9.9 %$, but glycerin had little effect on it. The measured rates of improvement were analogous to the inferences from regression analysis. It can be concluded that is possible to reduce total chemical preservatives up to 40 %, consequently improve the safety and sensory quality of cosmetics with the precision control of polyols. Added to that, using this paradigm, low preservative contents, praraben-free system, and even preservative-free systems can be expected in the near future.