• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.12-31
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• 1997

This is a study on the changes of the ancient underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Functions of underclothes are follow ; to protect the body from cold, to support the shape of the costume, to cleanliness, to erotic use of underclothes and as a method of class distinction. Linen is the oldest as materials and cotton came into general use after the Restoration of 1660. We must suppose that woolen petticoat was at least as old as the Middle Ages and silk was rarely used until late in Victorian times. Until the middle of the last century underclothes were necessarily hand-made, and the absence of fit was noticeable until the introduction of man\`s drawers, fitting the leg, at the close of the eighteen century. Strings and ribbons were the fastenings for underclothes until the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were replaced by buttons. One outstanding example of the first type of figures is a Babylonian girl of about 3000 BC from Sumeria who wears that today would immediately be described as briefs. Female statues show no trace of anything being worn under the chiton, but there is literary evidenced that the Greeks. A band of linen of kid was bound round the waist and lower torso to shape and control it. It was known as the Zone or girdle. The apodesmos, meaning a band, breast band, occurs in a fragment of Aristophanes. A Roman mosaic shows female athletes wearing a bikini-briefs and bra in the fourth century AD. A similar band, called the mastodeton, or breast band, was also worn round the bust, apparently to flatten or minimise it, as in the 1920s, and not, to stress its curves. In Rome, too, women sometimes wore bands of material round the hips and bust-a cestus or girdle is referred to by the poet Martial and seems to have been similar to the zone, but wider, and the strophium, or breast band, is mentioned by Cicero.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.147-164
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• 2000

This thesis examines the origin, the change and the symbolic meanings of class representation, and offers a comparative study on the differences of class representation in the history of Korean and western costume on the basis of class representation methods and types shown from ancient times to 18C. In both eastern and western costume, the differences in status are commonly represented in the width and length of costume, color, textile, ornamental design, wearing, decoration, etc. The costume of noble class was wide and long, while that of common class was narrow and short so that it could be convenient for them to move around. Especially, from 16C to 18C in the west the costume of noble class was expanded to the extent that it was inconvenient for them to move around not only by skirt swelling by using hoop, but also by pad, ruff, lace, etc. This appears to show that they are not working class. Wearing and decoration of noble class were much more colorful, complicated and varied, while those of common class were simple and plain. In the west, the wearing of chiton and toga in Greece and Rome was different depending on social status. More specific look at the differences in class representation shown in the eastern and western costume reveals that the higher the rank, the more the women in both Gothic and Chosun period covered the body, thereby representing rank. In 18C, the women in both Rococo and Chosun period commonly showed excessive decoration and lavishness on their hair, and in this period the width of skirt was also commonly expanded to the longest extent, with a slight difference put aside.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Journal of Bio-Environment Control
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.69-75
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• 2005

The storability of chicon was compared by packing it with PE box, wrap, LDPE (low density polyethylene) film that was 25 and 50um thickness, respectively and storing at 1 and $10^{\circ}C$ under light and dark conditions. The visual quality depending on dehydration was deteriorated at more than $2\%$ weight loss during storage. In packing treatments, chicon packed with PE box lost fresh weight to $3\%\;at\;10^{\circ}C\;and\;2\%\;at\;1^{\circ}C$, while non- penetrated film treatment, wrap, 25 and 50um thickness LDPE film, showed less than $1\%$ weight loss. The carbon dioxide concentration in package was $3\~4\%\;in\;50{\mu}m$ LDPE film at $1^{\circ}C\; and\;25um$ LDPE film at $10^{\circ}C$. The ethylene concentration in 50um LDPE film at $1^{\circ}C\;and\;25{\mu}m$ LDPE film at $10^{\circ}C$ was approximately 0.3 ppm and 0.5 ppm, respectively. Chiton stored in dark condition didn't turn to green, but it fumed green only in 3 days at $10^{\circ}C$ and in 6 days at $1^{\circ}C$ under light condition. The greening of chicon was less, the packing materials was thicker. The chlorophyll content represented the degree of greening showed less at $1^{\circ}C$ then at $10^{\circ}C$. The coefficient of correlation(r) between chlorophyll content and carbon dioxide concentration in package was 0.926 at $1^{\circ}C$ and 0.997 at $10^{\circ}C$. The visual quality except greening of packed chicon was maintained at $1^{\circ}C$ better than $10^{\circ}C$, and it was shown highest grade packed with $50{\mu}m$ LDPE film at $1^{\circ}C$ and packed with 25um LDPE film at $10^{\circ}C$. The vitamin C content in packed chicon was kept higher at $1^{\circ}C$ on storage temperatures, and 25um and 50um LDPE film on packing materials. According to these results, it can be proper condition for storage and marketing of chicon that 50um LDPE film at $1^{\circ}C$ and 25um LDPE film at $10^{\circ}C$. And dark condition is necessary to store chicon because it should turn green under tiny light condition.