• 대한가정학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.75-83
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• 2010

Hanbok Chima, a Korean skirt, with large-volume should have an archetypal drawing model for appropriate cultural and historical accuracy. In order to develop new Hanbok Chima archetypal drawings we drew a skirt by connecting height with a design structure adopted from Jeogori, a Korean jacket. As a result, an archetypal drawing was developed from which circumference of lower width of Chima, size of pleats in waist circumference, and length of Chima as well as a scheme of layering Chima and Jeogori can be obtained. In this drawing, width of Chima can increase or decrease naturally according to height. However, in case of same heights and different chest circumferences if 2.5cm of additional value is provided for every 5cm increase in chest circumference, Chima of any size can be made based on this drawing. In conclusion, given the demonstrated practicality of designing a Hanbok Chima with large-volume based on archetypal drawings, it is expected that the results of this study will provide useful scientific data for Korean costume designs.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.125-140
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• 2000

The major findings of basic women wear in genre painting were ; 1. Due to the influence of Shill-Hak (practical science) philosophy, Jeogori became shorter and a tighter fit came to be the norm. 2,. The shortening of the Jeogori influenced a longer Chima with a wider span providing comfort in movement or at work. The end of the skirt was often held by one hand to the waist adding to comfort. This was called the Go-dul-chima(Lifted Chima). 3. Because the Geo-dul-chima exposed a portion of one underwear at the bottom of the dress this influenced the "irnamentation' of underpants and underskits. 4. Collars or lapels came in the form of Dang-ko, Kal, Mok-pan and Ban-Mokpan. Among there Dang-ko style collars were the most common which allows us to conclude that this was the most popular. 5. The most commonly used colors for Jeogori were white (39.8%) and jade(18.3%) . The most commonly used colors for CHima were deep blue(34.4%) and jade(20.4%) . The lower Chima used the darkercolors to give stability to the overall costume. 6. Clothing had the function of differentiating the classes. Only the Yang-ban were allowed to wear the Samhijang Jeogori and the Gob-Chima(double layered Chima) and the knotting of the Chima to the left. But the painting show that these rules were not adhered to in the strictest manner. With the bases of these types of chima and Jeogori can look at the characteristical beauty of the ordinary women during the late Cho-sun dynasty. First is the beauty which comes from mystery of those parts of body which can not be seen. A sense of subtle and sensual beauty as well as that coming from the enlargement of reduction of the upper body, narrow waist and abundant lower body parts creating an ideal silhouette of sexual charm. An expression of emotion through clothing by those who lived during those times.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.478-485
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• 2007

This survey is about the disposition of ornament for the traditional women's Jegori and Chima in North and South Korea. And the results are as follows: Disposition of part was used a lot in Jegori and Chima by both North and South Korea. In the existence of ornament, the number and range decorated part and a type of disposition, there were the differences between North and South Korea. There were not many Chimas with ornament in South Korea, which means that South Korea focused on decorating Jegori. The number and range of decorated part in South Korea were many. Disposition type of Jegori ornament in South Korea was various but in North Korea disposition of type of Chima ornament was various. Compared to the traditional disposition, South Korea's Jegori tended to follow the traditional disposition. In case of Chima in North and South Korea and Jegori in North Korea, the proportion of traditional disposition, altered traditional disposition and modern disposition was little different.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.313-336
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• 1997

Nineteen stimulus photograghs varied in hue and color scheme of one clothing style of Korean dress worn by a female were used to investigate the effect of color color scheme and structure on impression formation for Korean dress. Subjects were 77 male and 86 female undergraduate and graduate students. The stimuli c9onsisted of two sets(cool and warm) of four similar color schemes two sets (cool and warm in Chima color) of five contrasting color schemes and one extra stimulus triad 3 hue base. Structures were de-fined by color schemes of Kit.Korum toward the color schemes of Jokori and Chima. Stimu-lus photogragh selected from Korean dress fashion magazines was managed and varied in hues and color schemes to Kit Korum Jokori and Chima according to Korean Standard Color through scanning and Adobe photoshop 3.0 program and then pictured through slide printer(HR-6000). Each subject assessed 19 stimulus color photographs with incorporated 7 point semantic differential response scale. The data were analyzed by frequency mean factor analysis t-test ANOVA and Scheffe test. Results indicate impression ofrmations are af-fected by clothing cues. 1) Four factors emerged to account for dimensional structure of impressions of female features on Korean dress. These four factors were titled as(1) preference.evaluation (2) individuality.attention (3) youth and (4) friendshio. The preference.evaluation factor was the largest including eleven adjectives and accounting for 29.62% of the variances. 2) Almost every clothing cue(color, color scheme, structure) had some effects on im-pressions formed But the color of Chima did not form the effects on impression of prefer-ence.evaluation factor. The effect of related color scheme was the most influential clothing cue on impressions of preference.evalation factor and friendship factor whereas the ef-fect of contrasting color scheme was the most influential clothing cue on impressions of indi-viduality.attention factor and youth factor. The effect of cool color of Chima was the most influential clothing cue on impression of indi-viduality.attention factor whereas the effect of warm color of Chima was the most influen-tial clothing cue on impressions of youth factor and friendship factor. The effect of Jokori/Chima.Kit.Korum structure was the most influential clothing cue on impressions of pref-erence.evaluation factor and youth factor whereas the effect of Kit.Korum/Jokori.Chima structure was the most influential clothing cue on impressions of individuality.attention factor and friendship factor. 3) The interaction effects were appeared among clothing cues. Significant interaction effects between color schemes(similar and contrasting) and colors of Chima(cool and warm were appeared on impressions of prefer-ence.evaluation factor imdividuality.atten-tion factor and friendship factor, Significant interaction effects between color schemes (similar and contrasting) and structures (Jokori.Chima.Kit.Korum; Jokori.Kit.Koru-m/Chima;Jokori/Chima.Kit.Korum;Kit.Korum/Jokori.Chima) were appeared on impressions of preference.evaluation factor youth factor and friendship factor. Signifi-cant interaction effects between colors(cool and warm) and structures were appeared on impressions of individuality.attention factor youth factor and friendship factor. Sighifi-cant interaction effects between colors(cool and warm) and structures were appeared on impressions of individuality.attention factor youth factor and friendship factor. Significant interaction effects among clothing cues(color color schemes and structures) were appeared on all impression factors. The friendship factor was the most friquently affected impression factor by interaction effects among clothing cues. In summary the clothing was used as nonverbal cues in the effect on impression for-mation of female dressed in Korean dress. it concluded that color schemes worked as cen-tral traits and colors of Chima and structures worked as peripheral traits in the formation of impression of the female clothed in Korean dress. hence organizing our impressions with respect to the parts of the Korean dress in re-lation to the whole holistic perceptual pro-cess Gestalt approach was used and supported.

• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.113-121
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the types and characteristics of wedding ceremony robes in the Jeju area from the 1950's to the 1980's. The analysis used 413 wedding pictures. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The following are the propotion of robe types used wedding ceremonies. 1.0% of Danryeong & Jangot, 6.5% of Danryeong & Wonsam, 1.5% of Danryeong & Chima+Jegori, 2.7% of Durumaki & Chima+Jegori, 24.7% of suit & Chima+Jegori and 63.7% of suit & wedding dress from the 1950's to the 1980's. 2. The Korean-style robes gradually decreased from the 1950's, and disappeared in the 1970's. The Chima+Jegori was introduced in the 1950's, reached its peak in the 1960's and its popularity continued to the 1970's. In the 1980's, after the Korean-style robes disappeared, the western ceremony robes were used in all the ceremonies. 3. After the Western-style robes, in which a bride wears a wedding dress, was introduced in the 1960's, its usage rapidly increased in the 1970's and is still popular today.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2004

In the designing stage, the HANBOK CHIMA is created using a flat pattern with linear shapes. However, when worn, the skirt creates a fluid and organic silhouette. According to the wearing method(wrapping), HANBOK CHIMA can create various shapes and movements. In comparison to the general skirt, It is more effective in revealing the wearer's sense of beauty. The method of wrapping the skirt from the rear is a suitable way of wearing the garment in accord with the Korean ON-DOL(온돌) culture and it creates mystique eroticism. We can devide the silhouettes according to six different period of time. The silhouette of HANBOK CHIMA is affected by the following elements: length, width, pleats, textures and the usage of underwear. [1. Koguryo (5C∼6C) - The first Tent silhouette. 2. The South Dynasty Silla (7C∼8C) - The second Tent silhouette. 3. Kyoryo dynasty (l4C) - Cylinder silhouette. 4. The first Chosun dynasty (late 14C∼17C) - Bell silhouette and Cylinder silhouette. 5. The second Chosun dynasty (mid 18C∼mid 19C) - Bell silhouette and Barrel silhouette. 6. The third Chosun dynasty (late 19C∼the beginning of 20C) - Tent, Cylinder and Bell silhouette.]

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.191-201
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• 1993

As a part of study examining Korean costume remaining in Yanbian China, this study explored changes in ceremonial clothing for marriage worn by Korean(Chosun race) in Yanbian China. About one hundred years ago, Koreans moved to Yanbian China and had worn traditional clothing for marriage ceremony until before 1940. Data were collected by true interview and field observation while staying in that area. Samo and Dalyung for bridegrooms, Wonsam and Jockdoory for bridegrooms, wonsam and Jockdoory for brides were usual costume for wedding ceremony, however, for couples in inferior conditions of life, Bazy and Jeogory for bridegrooms, yellow Jeogory and red Chima for brides were accepted for ceremonial costume. As western culture came to this area in about 1940, bridegrooms wore western style suit, while brides dress in white Chima, Jeogory and Neowool. To date, Korean brides have worn traditional Chima and Jeogory for marriage ceremony though slight change has occurred in clothing material and in the forms of Chima, Geogory and Neowool. As the pratice reflected the fact that Korean in Yanbian China as established and sustained traditional China as established and sustained traditional costume and Korean identity even in hush socio-cultural environment.

• 대한핵의학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.351-360
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• 1996

새로운 내부 방사선 치료용(Internal radiotherapy) $^{166}Ho$-CHICO와 CHIMA를 개발하고자 한다. $^{166}Ho$-CHICO 형성에 pH, 반응시간, chitosan 농도, $^{166}Ho$의 양 등의 영향을 실험하고, 형성된 $^{166}Ho$-CHICO로부터 $^{166}Ho$-CHIMA를 제조하여 $^{166}Ho$-CHICO와 CHIMA의 체내외 안정성 검사 등의 실험을 수행하였다. $^{166}Ho$-CHICO 형성시 최적의 조건은 pH 3.0에서 0.75% 이상의 chitosan 용액과, chitosan 무게에 대해 최대 20%까지는 $^{166}Ho$이 정량적으로 착물을 형성하였고, $^{166}Ho$-CHICO를 알칼리 처리하여 $^{166}Ho$ CHIMA를 제조하였다. 그리고 $^{166}Ho$-CHICO와 CHIMA는 체내외에서 매우 안정하였다. $^{166}Ho$-CHICO와 CHIMA는 매우 이상적인 carrier로서의 특성을 지닌 천연의 chitosan에 $^{166}Ho$을 쉽게 정량적으로 표지할 수 있고, 높은 체내외 안정성으로 미루어보아 내부 방사선 치료용 제제로서의 이용 가능성이 매우 높으며, 앞으로 충분한 동물실험을 거치면 신규 내부 방사선 치료제로서 새로운 장을 열 수 있을 것이다.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2006

This study was designed to analyze the three-dimensional shapes of Hanbok Chima made with various fabrics and to clarify the relationship between fabric properties as well as the objective and subjective evaluations of the 3D shape. For 3D shape data, a dress form (9A2 (N; nude)) was scanned with eight Chima garments made with the same number of fabrics. The scanner used was a non-contact three-dimensional human body measuring system belonging to Bunka Women's University in Japan. Data concerning the objective evaluation of the 3D shape was obtained from the measurements of the vertical and horizontal sections: those for subjective evaluation were through the sensory test after exposure to photographs from a front and side view. Four fabric factors were extracted from fabric physical properties: softness, extension, thickness of threads, and weight of fabric. Such factors as expansion (volume), sag of rear train, shape of nodes were influential in explaining the 3D shape of Hanbok Chima. From the analysis of the 3D shape, it can be deduced that with the constituent fabric stiffer, lighter, and less stretchable, the more expanded the 3D shape appeared to be. Multiple regression results showed that vertical shape factors have a greater effect on the evaluation of the 3D shape. It also implies that dependent variables of this study such as the subjective evaluation and 3D shape can be derived from regression equations on independent variables as fabric property factors or 3D shape factors. These results can enable the manufacturers to predict the 3D shape of the garment as well as the human subjective assessment to improve the efficacy of production. The investigation method proposed in this study can also be applicable to other garment items.