• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.151-168
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to examine all kinds of Kwanmo of Kokuryo. The results are as follows . There are nine kinds of Kwanmo in Kokuryo : Kun(건), Chaik ( 책), Jeolpoong(절풍), Sogol (소골), Jowookwan (조익관), Rakwan (라관), Kagkwan(각관), Rip(립) and Jumdongkwan (금동관), Kun(건) is a piece of cloth which covers hair. There are two types of kun(건) : Hari band type and entire head cover type. Chaik(책) was originated in China , but people of Kokuryo didn't wore chinese Chaik (책) as it was. They created unique shape of their own. Jeolpoong (절풍) is the cone-shaped knwanmo which is chiefly made of leather. In the early period it was worn by the nobility , but gradually trickcled down common people's Kwanmo. Sogol(소골) is the cone -shaped Kwanmo which is made of silk and decorated with gold and silver. Only the nobility wore it, Jowookwan(조익관) is the knwanmo decorated with natural bird feather or metallic feather. Mainly it was worn by the nobility in hunting , Besides, worriors, diplomats, dancers and musicians wore it. Rakwan (나관) was worn by the highest class. There were three kinds of Rakwan (나관) : Baekrakwan(백나관). Cheongrakwan (청나관) and Birakwan (비나관). The king of Kokuryo wore BAekrakwan (백나관). It was simlar ini shape to chines Mookwan (무관). Kagkwan (각관) was the kwanmo unique to Kokuryo. It was used by the nobility . Rip (립)was originated on purpose to protect people form the sunshine or rain. There were two kinds of Rip(립) ; Bangrip (방립) and Pyungyangja(평량자). The former was used by the nobility, the lattr was used by common people in hunting . The Kwanmo which was decorated with gold and silver developed into Kumdongkwan(금동관). The Kwanmo which is similar to Kumkwan (금관) of Baekje and Shilla has been shown in Kaimachong (가마총) 무 dJumdongkwan(금동관) was excavated in the ancient tombs of Kokuryo.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.250-258
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• 2001

The objective of this study was to trace and to identify the meaning of jeobli接籬. This word is found as one of the early costume terminologies of China. later the jeobli was introduced to Koguryo. The jeobli of China and Koguryo were included in this study. Sources of information for this research were collected from the written records including visual information from ancient paintings and tumb paintings as well as figurins. The results of important findings and conclusions of this study can be summerized as follows: It was found that the jeobli 接籬 was synonymous with the cheobli 睫離. Also it appeared that it was called baikrosa. It revealed that the word jeobli had different meanings. first, ti was the name of a white hat which was worn by the people of Chin dynasty. It was a white felt hat made of white great plumes and feathers. Second, it was a dialect for maqna, a kind of a veil which was worn by the women of the Northern dynasty. That, it meant the chaikkun, a kind of knot coverings. The jeobli, a kind of a white felt hat, was also used by the people of Koguryo. The jeobli of Koguryo was made of the pig hair from Malgal. It is considered that he shape of this white hat seems to be a kind of conical hat. Also, it was fond that the jeobli as the meaning of chaik kun was worn by the people of Kogure. it was a small white square hat. It was worn by the nobles.