• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.29-40
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• 2002

Honor guards‘ dress represented by royal carriage parade. This thesis studies the ceremonial dress worn by the ceremonial troops during the Hwa-sung Hang-hang Ban-cha drawing (華城幸行班次圖) in the Chosun dynasty of King Jung-jo. The purpose of this study is to understand the national level ceremony by closely looking into the traditional ceremonial dress and the various signs that were used at these events thereby enhancing the cultural status of the Jung-jo King period. The Hwa-sung Hang-hang Ban-cha drawing(華城幸行班次圖) has its characteristics and also has commonality between the garments worn at these ceremonies. These garments are a traditional heritage brought down from many ages before and is a reflection of the changes that have occurred within our everyday life. Among these many records the Bancha-do(班次圖) is a representation of records that show what was worn by both nobles down to the ceremonial troops. The uniforms of the ceremonial troops were not only huge in size but also very diverse according to rank and grade. They used strong true colors with colorful flags, ceremonial items and musical instruments. These all added to the grandeur of the ceremony. The ceremonial flag was itself a symbol and was the core of the whole ceremony and parade. These ceremonial flags represented the heaven, sun, moon, hill and animals as well as supernatural gods. All these showed change in shape, color and content by age and time. Also the Yongmun Gichi(Dragon flag: 龍紋旗幟) is a supernatural being representing the power and wish of the ruler. The Chunsang-mun represents the indivisible relationship between man and heaven and also a metaphor for absolute power. A close look at ceremonial instruments show a direct representation towards power such as an axe, spear and sword and integrated with other large ceremonial items not only provided a shade but was also a representation of worship. These all were a more or less representation of authority. The musical instruments expressed the absolute authority of the ruler and maintained the marching order and also added grandeur to the parade. A summary of the ceremonial troops in the As seen above, these national ceremonies were a representation of the present power of authority and the will to rule. These ideas and the philosophy of “ruled by heaven” is represented here in the uniforms and the ceremony itself. The Bicentennial anniversary of the Nung - hang of February 1795 will be an excellent opportunity to show and inherit the tradition and recreation of our heritage. In this view we must look at the color and shape of traditional dress to be able to inherit and learn from our ancestors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.5-25
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• 2001

Jade, which is a kind of stone, with its transparent body, lustrous and bright character, But jade is not the only fair stone. There are three kinds of jade objects 1) tallies used in the court. 2) ceremonial jades. 3) ordinary jade for decoration, for inlaid work and for burial. Among the ceremonial jade, the most important were the "liu jui" and "liu ch′i." The former was supposed to be held by people in the court as symbols of their authority : 1) "then-kuei(鎭圭)" for the emperor. 2) "hang-kuei(恒圭)" for a duke, 3) "hsin-kuei(信圭)" a marquis. 4) "kung-kuei(躬圭)" for an earl, these "kuei" were alike in shape, but differed in size. 4) "ku-pi(穀璧)" for a viscount. 5) "p′u-pi(蒲璧)" for a baron, "pi(璧)" differed in decoration but were alike in shape. "Liu ch′i(六器)" were ceremonial objects used by the emperor in worshipping Heaven, Earth, and the Four Directions : "ts′ang-pi(倉璧)," greenish jade disk, used in worthipping Heaven "huang-tsung(黃琮)," yellow jade cylinder, used in worshipping Earth ; "cuing-kuei,(靑圭)" blue jade tablet. used in worshipping the East : "chih-chang(赤璋)," red jade tablet, used in worshipping the South : "hsuan-huang(玄璜)," black crescent, used in worshipping the North. Five kinds of tallies were "chen-kuei(鎭圭)," "yenkuei(琰圭)," "yuan-kuei(玩圭)," "ku-kuei(穀圭)." They were used to console people during disaster, to subjugate an official who had committed a crime, to reward a prize to an official for his merit or good conduct, to arbitrate disputes between high officials, to marry princess. and to dispatch troops. Since the west wei(西魏), Kuei and Hole were made of Ivory, wood and bamboo, who had ivory for fifth grade and wood and bamboo for under sixth grade. After Eastern Chou, all officials beginning to had kuei hole. symbol of Authority. and his wives. After Dang dynasty, Japan is the same. In korea. After king Bupheung in ancient and South(unification) Silla, North Kingdom Bohai, Koryo, and Chosen dynasty had ceremonial jade, Kuei and Hole.