• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제25권5호
• /
• pp.913-924
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the sensibility of body exposure in contemporary fashion. 31 kinds of costume samples have been selected from photographs in fashion magazines. Those were divided into part of exposed body, the way of exposure and kinds of exposure. I have measured them by using Semantic Differential method. The subjects were 120 male and 120 female in twenties. The obtained data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, MDS and regression analysis. The results of analysis are as follow; 1. Factor analysis has extracted four factors which consist of the sensibility of body exposure. These factors are Attraction, Activity, Boldness, Simplicity. 2. There were significant differences in design of body exposure and demographics. 3. Evaluative dimensions of the sensibility of body exposure were identified by Hard-Soft, Active-Elegant. 4. Preference was related to words which are buying desirable, attractive, simple, natural, active appealed by design of body exposure costume and buying desirable was related to words which are favorite, modest, beautiful, natural appealed by mood of exposure costume.

• 복식
• /
• 제63권4호
• /
• pp.84-100
• /
• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.109-121
• /
• 2012

This study aims at developing ergonomics patterns for the sleeve of structural firefighting protective clothing through 3D motion analysis in order to ensure efficiency and safety of firefighters who are exposed to harmful environment at work. A new research pattern was developed by applying the total results of 3D motion analysis, changes of body surface length measurements, and 2D data on 3D body shape analysis on the size 3 patterns of the existing coat sleeve. For the sleeves, we used the body surface length of the range of shoulder's flexion and the joint angle of the range of wrist's ulnar deviation. And for the production of structural firefighting protective clothing using the research pattern, we recruited a recognized producer of structural firefighting protective clothing designated by KFI. Unlike everyday clothes, structural firefighting protective clothing should be able to fully protect the wearers from the harmful environment that threatens their lives and should not cause any restrictions on their movement. Therefore, the focus of research and development of such protective clothing should be placed on consistent development of new technologies and production methods that will provide protection and comfort for the wearer rather than production cost reduction or operational efficiency. This study is meaningful as it applied 3D motion analysis instead of the existing methods to develop the patterns. In particular, since 3D motion analysis enables the measurement of the range of motion, there should be continuous research on the development of ergonomics patterns that consider workers' range of motion.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권12호
• /
• pp.1418-1424
• /
• 2011

This study proposes the suggested amount of clothing (SAC) and examines the preferred amount of clothing (PAC) for thermal comfort in mild cold conditions. Six male and nine female college students were systematically exposed to mild cold conditions by reducing the amount of clothing (Step I, 1.2clo ${\rightarrow}$ Step II, 1.0clo ${\rightarrow}$ Step III, 0.8clo ${\rightarrow}$ Step IV, 0.7clo). The subjects were then asked to adjust the amount of clothing to attain overall thermal comfort until they maintained thermal comfort for 10 minutes without changing the amount of clothing (Step V). The experiment was carried out in a climatic chamber at $19.5^{\circ}C$, 50%R.H. Body composition was measured and individual cold climate adaptability was surveyed before starting the experiment. Rectal temperature ($T^{re}$), skin temperature ($T_{sk}$), and oxygen consumption ($\dot{V}O_2$) were measured and the overall thermal sensation was voted in each step. PAC was obtained from the garments weight selected by each subject in Step V. SAC was proposed based on the change of oxygen consumption (${\Delta}\dot{V}O_2$). As a result, males showed higher $\bar{T}_{sk}$ and greater $O_2$ than females (p<.01). SAC obtained from $\dot{V}O_2$ were 652.0 (SE 3.9) g/$m^2$ for males and 766.0 (SE 2.5) g/$m^2$ for females and it was significantly different between groups (p<.01). PAC of males and females were 1.6 and 1.5 times heavier than SAC. In conclusion, females were more sensitive to the cold stress and recommended larger amount of clothing than males.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제24권3호
• /
• pp.353-360
• /
• 2000

The purpose of study examined the changes of the man's underclothes from the ancient ages to the early modern ages. The method of study researched literatures and possessions of the museum. In ancient ages, a suit of clothes had the functions of both underclothes and outer garments. In middle ages, underclothes were not exposed and the importance was not recognized while they were worn to show the sense of sin and humility or to punish criminals. In early modern ages, the importance of underclothes recognized as they were exposed. In Renaissance period, the fashion of the day influenced much on the underclothes. In Baroque ages, the functions of underclothes were different according to sexes and men wore underclothes to show their social status. As the outer garments were shortned, shirt wwere also conspicuously exposed. In Rococo ages, drawers were tightened due to the influence of outer garments, men exposed their shirts to show the social status and underclohtes were usually worn to express sexual attraction. Men's underclothes had the functions of class distinction from the ancient ages to the modern ages, except the middle ages and underclothes had the additional functions such as supporting body-shape and sex attraction. The fashion of the day influenced on the changes of the shapes of the shapes of men's underclothes and the changes of outer garments were reflected on underclothes.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제17권1호
• /
• pp.77-88
• /
• 1993

The changes in body temperatures of students in physical trained and untrained colleges have been studied as a funtion of garment styles under three different environmental conditions ($13{\pm}1$, $21{\pm}1$, $31{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $60{\pm}5%$ RH, 0.25m/sec). Since exposures of the extremities of body affect the regulation of body temperature, two types of garments, i.e., the skirt and the slacks, were used in order to observe the effects of the garment styles on the regulation of body temperatures. The skirt exposed the calf of the leg, while the slacks did not. Because the body temperature is regulated better for healtier people, the subjects were divided into two groups. one group was consisted of 2 untrained female students, and the other of 2 healthier female physical college students. 1. The rectal temperatures for those in skirt were $0.3^{\circ}C$ higher than for the ones in slacks at $13^{\circ}C$ regardless of the groups. The untrained group showed $0.3^{\circ}C$ higher rectal temperatures in skirt and $0.2^{\circ}C$ higher in slacks compared to the physical trained group. 2. The skin temperatures rose with the environmental temperatures, and the skirt gave larger mean skin temperature by $0.5^{\circ}C$ at $21^{\circ}C$. 3. At $13^{\circ}C$, the untrained group felt colder, more wet, and slightly more uncomfortable for both skirt and slacks. It is concluded that the skirt is more effective in physiological defense against cold stimuli than the slacks at $13^{\circ}C$, and that the regulation of body temperature takes place more efficiently to the physical trained students.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권9_10
• /
• pp.1465-1474
• /
• 2007

We analyzed the effects of regular Jjimjilbang(Korean sauna) exposure on the heat tolerance in young and old females. Subjects were young(n=7) and old(n=7) females who never had a bath in Jjimjilbang for last year. Jjimjilbang training group took a bath in Jjimjilbang once a week 19 times. Jjimjibang expsure was limited three times per day, Jjimjil were taken free way. To prove the effects of the heat tolerance, Subjects were exposed to hot and humid air$(40.0{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C,\;60{\pm}5%RH)$. In the condition, subjects were taken a foot bathing$(40.0{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C)$ and simulated for 30 min., and rectal temperature, skin temperatures, clothing microclimate, blood pressure, total body weight loss, local sweat and subjective sensation were measured. The results are as follow: Rectal temperature, skin temperatures, clothing microclimate, total body weight and subjective thermal comfort sensation were decreased gradually(p<.001). Local sweat of upper arm was decreased(p<.01). In conclusion. the regular Jjimjilbang exposure has positive effects upon improvement in regulation of body temperature, especially in heat tolerance.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제22권7호
• /
• pp.826-832
• /
• 1998

In order to understand the influences of wearing clothings with different thermal insula-tions when men were exposed from $25^{\circ}C$ environment to 18$^{\circ}C$ environment, thermoregulatory responses were measured on 4 healthy female college students. Subjects rested wearing T-shirts, trousers, and socks called LC(total weight 541g) at 25$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5% R.H. and then exposed to the room conditioned in 18$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5$^{\circ}C$ R.H. with LC as it was(LC Type) or with T-shirts, trousers, socks, training wear upper garment, the training wear lower garment called HC (total weight 1368g)(HC Type) for 120 min. The results can be summarized as follows: 1) When subjects were exposed from $25^{\circ}C$ environment to 18$^{\circ}C$ environment, decrease of rectal temperature was significantly smaller in LC Type than in HC Type. 2)Increase of heat production and weight loss had no significant difference between two types of clothing. 3)Internal thermal conductance was higher in HC Type and external thermal conductance was higher in LC Type. Therefore total thermal conductance was higher in LC Type than in HC Type. 4)Decrease of skin temperature was greater in LC Type than in HC Type. 5)Subjects felt colder with LC Type than with HC Type, but did not feel differently in comfort sensation between two types of clothing. It was suggested that less decrease of rectal temperature in LC type inspite of more dry heat loss from body might be ascribed to a shift of blood from the shell area to the core area originating in the vasoconstriction and the lowered internal thermal conductance. In conclu-sion, the importance of the state of internal heat distribution in the homeostasis seemed to be reaffirmed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제24권3호
• /
• pp.315-324
• /
• 2022

This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제2권5호
• /
• pp.398-404
• /
• 2000

We examined the effect of individual sweating responses on thermoregulatory responses induced by heat of sorption, immediately after the onset of sweating. The present study consists of two experiments. In experiment 1, made of 100% cotton (C) and 100% polyester (P) clothing were exposed in the chamber at ambient temperature (Ta) of $27.2^{\circ}C$ and relative humidity (rh) raised from 50% to 95% at five different increase rates of environmental vapor pressure (VP). The increase rate of clothing surface temperature (Tcs), peak Tcs and peak time showed significant correlation with the increase rate of environmental VP in C-clothing (p<0.05). In experiment 2, seven female subjects were studied during leg water immersion ($35-41^{\circ}C$) for 70min in Ta of 27.2 and 50%rh. There were significant positive correlations in the increase rate of clothing microclimate VP vs. changes in Tcs, skin blood flow, mean skin temperature and mean body temperature (p<0.05). The present results showed that individual clothing microclimate VP had significant effects on thermoregulatory responses induced by heat of sorption wearing C ensembles.