• Human Ecology Research
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.279-292
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• 2016

This research predicted the fit of the basic bodice patterns worn on adolescent girls' 3-dimensional scanned bodies. Six 3-dimensional scanned bodies were selected from the sixth Size Korea data. Each of them had good body posture and represented one of the three garment sizes: 79-160, 82-160, and 85-160. Experimental basic bodice patterns were drafted by three basic bodice pattern making methods. The fit of the basic bodice pattern was analyzed by the CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The results showed that the experimental basic bodice patterns did not fit well at the neck, shoulder, and back for adolescent girls. The fit of the basic bodice patterns varied by pattern making method or size. The basic bodice pattern A with the waist darts ending above the breast line showed the best fit among the three different types of experimental pattern. Among the three sizes 79-160, 82-160, and 85-120, size 79-160 basic bodice pattern showed the worst fit for adolescent girls. The results show that the placement and size of the bodice darts affect the basic bodice pattern fit. The basic bodice pattern making method of size 79-160 for adolescent girls should be studied in a future study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.1004-1014
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop a well-fitting bodice basic pattern for high school irk. Two bodice patterns were first made based on the most recent existing drafting methods and sensory evaluation was done on the patterns by the present researchers Two high school girls possessing standard physical condition tried and evaluated the functionality of the garments made by the two bodice patterns. Based on the results of the evaluation, a new bodice basic pattern was developed. The new bodice basic pattern was drafted by long measurement method. The dimensions of new bodice basic pattern were as follows. Bust circumference=B/2+4cm, Arms hole depth=C.B/2+1.5cm, Back width=B/6+4cm, Front width=B/6+3cm, Back neck width=B/12+0.5cm, Back neck depth=Back neck width/3cm, Front neck width=B/12cm, Front neck depth=B/12+0.5cm. The sensory and functional evaluations were also conducted for the new bodice basic pattern and the two patterns drafted by the existing methods. The new bodice basic pattern showed better fit both visually and functionally than the existing patterns. SPSS package including means, standard deviation and one-sample T-test were used for data analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.427-440
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• 2016

This study uses comparison tests of bodice basic patterns to research improvements in wearing evaluation methods based on differences in bodice basic patterns and body size. As study methods, we calculated body sizes for six types by selecting four types of bodice basic pattern and utilized bodice basic pattern size measurement tools. The study result are as follows. First, as the result of analyzing bodice basic patterns per each part and body size difference by bodice basic pattern size measurement tool, shoulder angle cover rate was J&K type 57.57%~68.41%, N type 53.13%~65.57%, L type 51.87%~63.73%, and H type 59.03%~68.20%. In the item of neck base circumference, it was J&K type 6.4~-16 mm, N type 10.7~-31.9 mm, L type -5.2~-13.4 mm, and H type -6.2~-15.4 mm. In the item of armscye circumference, it was J&K type -18.9~-59.4 mm, N type -15.2~-51.3 mm, L type -38.9~-52.7 mm, and H type -17~-42.2 mm. In the item of biacromion length, it was J&K type 23.2~-4.7 mm, N type 18.4~-10.4 mm, and H type 3.5~-5.7 mm. In the item of interscye back, it was J&K type and N type 17.6~-13.6 mm, L type 11.9~-13.6 mm, and H type 3.2~-11.8 mm. The item of interscye front was found in the sequences of study type and L type. Second, the Kruskal-Wallis test result (according to bodice basic pattern) indicated meaningful differences in items of shoulder angle cover rate, neck point to breast point, bust point-bust point, biacromion length and armscye circumference and H type had an overall higher rank.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.482-492
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• 1998

With the purpose of developing a objective fitness evaluation system for knits, the basic bodice pattern for knit was drafted and the suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated. For each of nine different knits, six sleeveless shirts were made with patterns that were altered by different pattern alteration rate: 0%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, or 70% of the stretch rate of the knit. The panel that was composed of 25 clothing specialists evaluated the fitness of the garments. The distance from the dress form landmark to the garment landmark was measured from each experimental garment. And the results of garment fitness evaluation and the measurement of distance from the dress form landmark to garment landmark were compared. The results of this study are as follows: There was high correlation(r$\geq$0.9) between the evaluation of the panel about the garment fit and the landmarks distance. The stretch rate of knits affected the evaluation of the garment fit. The stretch rate in course of knits affected on the garment fit at crosswise direction. The suitable pattern alteration rate was lower than 30% for the knits with high stretch rate in course. It was concluded that in order to get the appropriate knit bodice pattern length, the front bodice pattern must be less shorten than the back bodice pattern. The alteration rate at hip line must be lower than for waist or bust line.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.8
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• pp.137-154
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• 2001

This study was made to draft the tight fitting bodice pattern which horizontal and perpendicular stands are to be lightly set, with the consideration of characteristics of body shape in design of clothes. Measurement of body was conducted on 53 women in twenties, and observation was made on surface development pattern by adhesive tape addition method and gypsum method on three standard objects. In the study, bodice pattern was completed by using already made Somato- measurer, compared with existing bodice pattern, and the results are as follows. The result of the correlation analysis by body measurement shows that chest circumference has a relation to B$.$P-front neck point, side neck point, shoulder point, front interscye breadth point, and the item in spine scapulae point has relation to the item of back neck line, and front & back horizontal values. The degree of shoulder slant, width of armhole and of its depth, the amount of breast, back space, back length were shown to be directly measured from the body. In surface development pattern, tight-fit bodice pattern necessary to the breast volume and back space were shown to be investigated and these volume have to be given in setting up basic line for clothes design together with body measurement value. The result of sensory evaluation for appearance test on fitness shows higher value of research bodice including line of shoulder line, front and back interscye breadth, chest circumference, waist circumference, armhole circumference and of its depth, compared with the research bodice in most items. The result of this study is seen showing high effectiveness for the basic data to design the ready-made dress of high sensitivity of high value added tat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.7
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• pp.758-769
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• 2003

In this research, I classified adult women's back types through anthropometric measurement and photographic measurement to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, Ⅰ calculated regression fomula by types and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 5 factors were extracted and those factors comprised 75.89% of total variance. 2. According to the cluster analysis, Ⅰclassified the back types into 6 types. Type 1 was passive posture in the upper and the lower parts of the back. Type 2 was active posture in the upper and the lower parts of the back. Type 3 had the lowest protrusion of the back. Type 4 had the upper part of the back which is mostly bent downward. Type 5 was the most suitable shape. Type 6 had the lower part of the back which was turned over the most. 3. Ⅰconducted a discriminant analysis to judge the body types of individuals. 4. For the calculation of measurements necessary for the basic bodice pattern, Ⅰpresented regression formulas by each type. 5. By conducting the wearing experiments, Ⅰsuccessfully made the final basic bodice patterns by types. As a result of comparative experiments between the basic bodice patterns and comparison bodice pattern, the suitability of basic bodice patterns were more highly assessed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.225-230
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• 2005

This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.290-299
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.