• Human Ecology Research
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.53-71
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• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.88-98
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• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.308-318
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop the functionally improved winter work clothing for the Korean railroad workers. Based on the questionnaires, the sample clothing for the Korean railroad workers was produced. The design, materials, and patterns were modified to increase mobility and comfort of workers. Water-repellent treatment was added to the material in order to decrease the dirt and stains while working. Also the reflective strips were added to chest and back of the upper garment in order to increase visibility and safety of the workers. In terms of the design and pattern underarm of the sleeve and side panel of the bodice were put in together and action pleats at the back were inserted in order to decrease the pullback of the armpit and scapular area and increase mobility of the arm movement. Also the patterns of the elbows areas were modified to increase mobility of joint. The prototype was evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment to compare to the existing working uniform. Assessment group was consisted of 5 subject groups and 11 expert groups and evaluated external appearance and adaptability to the movements. According to the results, the prototype was evaluated better than the existing working uniform in appearance and adaptability except height of collar. A field test was conducted to compare the prototype and the existing working uniform. The field tests were performed by 6 workers in the Korean railroad. According to the results, the prototype was improved in terms of adaptability and comfort.