• Geotechnical Engineering
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.101-122
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• 1997

A spiting reinforcement system is composed of a series of radially installed reinforcing spites along the perimeter of the tunnel opening ahead of excavation. The reinforcing spill network is extended into the in-situ soil mass both radially and longitudinally The sailing reinforcement system has been successfully used for the construction of underground openings to reinforce weak rock formations on several occasions. The application of this spiting reinforcement system is currently extended to soft ground tunneling in limited occasions because of lack of reliable analysis and design methods. A method of threetimensional limit equilibrium stability analysis of the smile-reinforced shallow tunnel in soft ground is presented. The shape of the potential failure wedge for the case of smile-reinforced shallow tunnel is assumed on the basis of the results of three dimensional finite element analyses. A criterion to differentiate the spill-reinforced shallow tunnel from the smile-reinforced deep tunnel is also formulated, where the tunnel depth, soil type, geometry of the tunnel and reinforcing spites, together with soil arching effects, are considered. To examine the suitability of the proposed method of threedimensional stability analysis in practice, overall stability of the spill-reinforced shallow tunnel at facing is evaluated, and the predicted safety factors are compared with results from twotimensional analyses. Using the proposed method of threetimensional limit equilibrium stability analysis of the smile-reinforced shallow tunnel in soft ground, a parametric study is also made to investigate the effects of various design parameters such as tunnel depth, smile length and wadial spill spacing. With slight modifications the analytical method of threeiimensional stability analysis proposed may also be extended for the analysis and design of steel pipe reinforced multi -step grouting technique frequently used as a supplementary reinforcing method in soft ground tunnel construction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.253-264
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to examine the thermal comfort characteristics of the garments for school, textile and bank worker's uniform. The garments selected for this study were frequently used in Taegu area in terms of design and material used for making garments by the survey for the study The human subject tests were performed to determine the thermal comfort characteristics of garments including thermal, humidity, and wearing sensation and the data were analysed statistically. The results of the study were as follows: 1. According to the result of the survey jacket was mostly used as a school uniform for both male and female high school students. The survey showed that 93% of male students wore 'neck T-shirts' and dimensional fitness for the school uniform got suitable at 2~3 grade high school students. In terms of human subject tests, most students rated 'uncomfortable' in wearing sensation of their school uniform. One of this reason was due to the humidity sensation and air velocity sensation. Level of significance of the thermal sensation for gender difference was higher in hands and feet of the subjects than in chest and thigh of them. 2. According to the result of the survey jacket with zipper was mostly used as a textile worker's uniform. The result of the survey indicated that some textile workers are wearing their inner wear (38.7% for upper and 46.6% for lower). In the human subject tests, about 50% of subjects rated 'comfortable to slightly comfortable' for wearing sensation of the textile worker's uniform. It showed that the female subjects of the humidity sensation was rated higher than the male subjects of the humidity sensation, while the male subjects of the thermal sensation was rated higher than the female subjects of the thermal sensation. There was a closer correlation with the subjective thermal sensation for textile worker's uniform in center parts of the subjects such as back and waist than exposed parts. 3. The result of the survey showed that 70% and 23% of the female banker uniform were blouse and jacket, respectively and 75% and 25% of the male banker uniform were jacket and T-shirt, respectively. All interviewee rated trousers and skirts that were used for their lower. 4. The result indicated that 50% male and 67.7% female subjects for the banker uniform rated 'slightly comfortable for the comfort' sensation. 50% male subjects rated 'neutral' and about 50% female subjects rated 'slightly warm to neutral' for the thermal sensation. In addition, The result showed that 75% male subjects for both upper and lower rated 'neutral' for the humidity sensation and also 75% female subjects rated 'neutral to slightly dry'. Thus, there was no significant different between gender. 5. In the thermal sensation of the subjects for the banker's uniform by parts, 50% subjects rated 'neutral' for their body parts, including head, neck, back, waist, hip, lower arm, and thigh. The extremely cold parts were hands and feet for both male and female subjects.