• 복식
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• 제60권3호
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• pp.10-25
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• 2010

The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.702-712
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.23-34
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to spread the public recognition for the style of Islamic dress has been ignorantly left and provide this as the basic data for Islamic fashion design. This treatise restricts the Islamic scope into the southeast Asia and confuted the study referring to Islam related books, treatise, domestic and foreign fashion magazines as well as newspaper articles, Internet and screen materials. The study results are as follows: Commonly Islam as a term of religious scope means complex cultural body based on Islam. 1. The Islamic social and cultural images were categorized as (1) conservative and sexual (2) simple, static, decorative and rhythmical (3) dark, violent, bright and amusing image. 2. Islamic nations' style of dress was characterized (1) surface decorative dress (2) practical outer garment (3) trousers style. 3. Both men and women basically put on trousers in children's stories and animations. In case of women, they wear skirts and according a social standing, tunic and caftan style jackets. As for men and women, Dey both wear turbans or chadors but in particular, wealthy classes put on a distinguishable turbans and chadors with splendid accessories. 4. The characteristics of Islamic fashion are lace decoration around a sleeve and the waist or blouse and harem pants with a elastic cord. In addition, they are splendid necklace and ring earings looking old, accessories with big pendants and dragging belts. These examples are shown in collections and streets.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2015

This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.294-301
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• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.97-118
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• 1994

This stud is my second trial to examine the costume of Balhae Dyansty. The subject of this study is the costume of a bronze statue excavated in the Maritime Provinces of Russia. The bronze statue is in the custody of Vladivostok Museum E.V. Shavkunov a Russian archelogist reported it a statue of-ficial of balhae dynasty in the 7-8th century. Judged his report lack of basis I suggest new opinion on sex, age, married or unmarried. social position manufactured time of the statue by comparative study on the costume hair-style and appearance of the statue with around nations' antiquities. hair-style of the statue is basically included in Ssangge and complexed style of Sage Ssangsuhuange, and Guange, Generally, Ssangge is a hair style of children, unmarried women, court ladies, dancing girls, and instrument player (lady)s'. The statue wears round-necked blouse long skirt broad fabric belt at high waist broad sleeve and confront collar coat cloud shaped shawl and risen tip shoes. The figure of statue is de-scribed plump. The statue shows straight sil-houette and high waist typical style of Tang, Uddai, The most characteristic facto is cloud shaped shawl Cloud shaped shawl was originally one of the northern race's shoulder ornaments. From the view of Comparative study the antiquities of NamDang and JunChock are simi-lar to this statue. Besides Tsukanovka river where the statue was excavated is Kraskino ruins of a castle formed single cultural layer of Balhae Dynasty and are relics of the layer of Balhae Dynasty and are relics of the latter period of Balhae Dynasty. Therefore this statue is assumed to have been manufactured at the last years of Balhae Dynasty and to be a figure of unmarried woman not official.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2007

Fashion of one period is symbolic and figurative means of expression reflecting spirit, ideology, emotion and aesthetic values of that period. Designs of school uniforms fer girls also went through changes in various shapes along with changes in sociocultural and philosophical backgrounds in each period. Thus, in this study, in examining girls' school uniforms, how girls' school uniforms have evolved with what kind of design characteristics was observed along with process of historical changes, and investigation was made on realistic conditions of girls school uniforms since 1996 when active advancements in school uniform design were started. Also, through examination of girls' school uniform designs from homepage of large student uniform companies and catalogues, characteristics of girls' school uniforms after 1996 were observed. On the result, we could know that girl's school uniforms from 1996 to 2006 were designed in various forms compared to those of the past time and changing Arends of the era were reflected on the school uniform designs. Narrow waistline, shorter blouse, changes in the length of jacket and skirt showed that current school uniform designs pursue the fashionable and trendy designs unlike those of the past times that were uniform and strict. This study include organizing characteristics of girls' school uniform designs by each period, providing fundamental and realistic data for clothes manufacturing and marketing activities through analysis on designs of girls' school uniforms since 1996, and providing directions for future school uniform designs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.173-186
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship between the weight of seasonal garments worn by Korean women in their daily lives and thermal insulation. We selected a total of 121 garments(13 kinds of Under garments, 51 Upper garments, 32 Lower garments, 15 Headgear, 10 Gloves Footgear) based on our previous survey using questionnaire and interview. Thermal insulation of single garment was measured with a thermal manikin. Also we measured garment weight, covering area, thickness, air permeability on the each garment(chamber air temperature: $21.5{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$, humidity: $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ air speed: 0.15m/s). The results are as follow: The very strong positive correlation(r=0.905, p<.01) was recognized between the weight of single garment and thermal insulation. The regression equation of thermal insulation can be represented as follows: Thermal Insulation(clo)=$0.03+0.0004{\times}Garment$ Weight(g)($r^2$=0.820, SEE =0.059). There are significant differences in the thermal insulation and garment weight by season and garment type(p<.05). The each garment category's thermal insulation and garment weight has as follows: Under garment(0.06clo, 89g), Blouse Shirt T-shirt(0.13clo, 200g), Cardigan Sweater Vest(0.14clo, 287g), Coat Jacket Jumper(0.41clo, 890g), Skirt(0.16clo, 276g), Trousers(0.20clo, 438g), Headgear(0.03clo, 102g), Gloves Footgear(0.03clo, 33g).

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.10-20
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• 2010

In this research, by yearly subdividing and analyzing the characteristic of the embroidery design according to the garment item with a season the high value added is raised for a differencing and high performance conversion of the high fashion design and there is an object. In 2004, when the total 474 chapter was selected in S/S season till F/W season in 2008 and the embroidery design characteristic according to the kind of an item the analyzing method and statistical method was used. As to the first, and the embroidery design in which it follows of the garment item showed the stylized, and the plant motive of the geometric pattern by an edge and composite arrangement in an one-piece and blouse with the satin stitch and cut work technique. A monotone and the bright tone were used. The second, and the season different difference, the out line stitch, an applique, and the cut work technique S/S season were a feature. A plant, and the animal motive were expressed as the front arrangement and the monotone of the achromatic color appeared. As to F/W season, the long short stitch and satin stitch techniques were with the characteristic profit. The abstract motive showed up as the edge alignment and composite arrangement. And the plain tone and the monotone of the chromatics combination color are used. In the third, and the chronological difference, an applique the embroidery technique showed up in the out line stitch, and 2007 years in 2004 years and 2006 years. And the sentence motive of the animal, and the abstract motive the embroidery motive are embossed in 2005 years and 2006 years in 2008 years.