• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제2권4호
• /
• pp.13-20
• /
• 1998

Scandinavia consists of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland, all linked by historical and geographical ties. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the folk costume of the Scandinavia. Scandinavia many skilled handicrafts are practised, such as leatherwork, silverwork and embroidery. The most popular colours are yellow, blues, reds, greens and white. For women the costume consist of a blouse with a bodice, skirt and apron, over which is worn a jacket or shawl, accompanied by a headdress. Their accessories may be jewellery, belts, kerchiefs and separate pockets. For the men, the costume is a shirt, trousers or breeches, worn with a waistcoat and jacket, neck scarf, and topped with a hat or cap. And the Lapps, both men and women, wear woollen shirts beneath their blue-skirted tunics, and blue trousers. It is one of the most ancient of the costumes worn in western Europe, due to its total suitability to their way of life.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제20권3호
• /
• pp.401-413
• /
• 1996

This study is aimed to be helpful a developing process for Apparel design and to investigate Idea abduction for Apparel Design which applied to the Morphological Method one of the Methods of Creativity which the creative technologists studied. The result of this study were as follows : 1. The Morphological Method which is one of the Methods of Creativity could be applied to Idea abduction for Apparel Design by CAD system. 2. This study developed a program for CAD system which could use the design process for Apparel Design applied to the Morphological Method 3. In the consequence of the program which could use the design developing process of Morphological Method, and trying to test with the selection of the essential variables about Jacket, Skirt, One-piece, Blouse, it is found that many design for Apparel Design could be producted in a short time, so that the conclusion have been made as a result that the Method could be a great help to design a variable sillouette for Apparel Design.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권8호
• /
• pp.1387-1395
• /
• 1997

Effects of the ambient air temperature and the opening position on the pattern of the clothing ventilation of a thermal manikin wearing an impermeable blouse were investigated by the trace gas method. Under an isothermal condition, the ventilation was governed by diffusion, and the ventilation rate through the wrist-openings was greatly affected by the distance from the openings. Under non-isothermal conditions, however, the ventilation was accelerated by the convection driven by the temperature gradient between the clothing microclimate and the surrounding air; the greater the temperature gradient, the greater the ventilation. Even though it was certainly affected by the ambient air temperature, the ventilation rate was more significantly influenced by the position of openings. The ventilation patterns at the arm and the body were distinctive.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제20권4호
• /
• pp.45-52
• /
• 1982

This research is aimed at establishing nominal sizes for the clothes manufacturers by using the results from a comprehensive study with 6~9 year-old girls. From the results of the data analysis, we found the following points: 1) The stature and the weight, which have strong correlations with each part of the body, are selected as the independent variables. 2) The frequency-distribution was calculated from the variable quantities(Table 1~5). 3) The nominal size for the jacket, blouse, skirt, and trousers was estimated by the frequency-distribution(Table 6~9). 4) A multiple linear regression model to estimate the 18 items was formulated.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제14권5호
• /
• pp.813-827
• /
• 2006

In this investigation, the following study was carried out for an experimental proposal of the knit item lists which were not actualized due to lack of studies. First of all, we have put the knit item titles that have been used through the document investigation, into the lists in order to clarify the original item list. Furthermore, we have pointed out the problems and the areas to be developed in the original item lists, and proposed twenty new knit item lists. By defining the design traits of each item, we have established item list which could be classified more systematically. As a result, the knit item titles of twenty newly proposed item titles are knit pull over, knit pull over top, knit top, knit t shirt, knit shirt, knit polo shirt, knit blouse, knit vest, knit hood, knit jumper, knit jacket, knit coat, knit cardigan, knit ensemble, knit cape, knit shawl, knit bikini, knit one-piece, knit pants, and knit skirt. Secondly, in order to investigate the possibility of practical use of twenty knit item lists proposed by this study, we have applied anova with repeated measurement for foreign fashion collection knit item trends of the past 10 years based on the proposed item lists. As a result, four items classified as top, shirt, cardigan, and pants had similar changes in the trend for last 10 years in S/S season while eleven items classified as pull over, pull over top, blouse, vest, jacket, coat, cardigan, ensemble, cape, shawl, and one-piece had similar trend changes for F/W season. The first significance of this study is on the experimental proposal of knit item list which could be used in the actual clothing industry and academic field. Furthermore, by defining the design traits of each knit item, it sublated the confusions brought by vocabularies in design of knit products and distribution in the industry perspective, and it made it possible to categorize the knit items correctly in knit design analysis and knit design education in academic field. The second significance shows that this study brought about positive results in the possibility of industrial academic practical use of proposed list by indicating that most of the knit designs appeared in the foreign collections in the past ten years could be correctly classified through investigational analysis.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제44권10호
• /
• pp.47-55
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the color characteristics of preferred clothing textiles of college students. One hundred nine male and female college students were evaluated for their preference to clothing textiles in previous research. To analyze the color characteristics, spectral data were measured. Color, color tone, and values of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ according to clothing item were compared. In addition, chromaticity diagram was drawn. The results of this study were as following. 1. The color of the shirts textile that college student preferred most in spring/fall was PB(purple blue) color, lt(light) tone. In general, the preferred textiles for shirts represented a simple color that is close to achromatic color with light and soft shade. The color of the blouse textiles that college student preferred most was PB color, d(dull), g(grayish) and W(white) tone. 2. The most frequently shown color of upper garment was PB, followed by Y(yellow) for shirt and R(red) for blouses. College students prefer a simple color which is close to achromatic color, and a light and soft color was preferred for shirts fabric and they preferred various, medium shades, but closer to pure colors for blouses because college students tend to consider that the aesthetic side is important and usually wear blouses less often than shirts. 3. For slacks, the colors of the preferred textiles were B(blue), PB color and lt.g.(light grayish), g, d and bk(black) tone. Therefore, the preferred textiles for slacks represented simple colors such as bluish or close to achromatic color with light or dark shade. For skirt, YR(yellow red), PB color and lt.g, lt, d. tone were preferred. Therefore, soft light or moderately toned various colors that are close to pure color were especially preferred for skirts. 4. The colors of preferred fabrics for slacks and skirts differed. The colors of the preferred fabrics for slacks were mostly cold color, whereas those of skirts were mostly warm color. And college students preferred various, medium shaded and closer to pure colors for skirts because they tend to consider the aesthetic side as being important. 5. The pattern of preferred fabrics was mostly solid, regardless of clothing item, and melange was the second most preferred pattern. 6. Through the analysis of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ values, shirt and blouse textiles showed higher $L^*$ value than that of slacks and skirt. The preferred textiles of college students were generally close to achromatic color because the values of $a^*$, and $b^*$ were very low, as confirmed by the result of the chromaticity diagram.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권7호
• /
• pp.1236-1246
• /
• 1997

본 연구는 1960년대 미국의 청년층에 의해 일어난 반문화적인 현상으로 인식되어온 동양문화의 도입, 특히, 인도문화가 청년문화 전반에 끼친 영향과 더 나아가 이러한 환경변화가 미국대학복식에 미친 영향을 알아보고자 하였다. 1960년대 미국청년문화에 나타난 인도 문화의 영향은 철학, 종교 대중음악 등 다방면에서 보여졌으며, 또한 복식의 형태에도 반영되었다. 복식학자들에 의한 단편적인 추론에만 그쳤던 이러한 복식의 현상을 본 연구는 문헌조사에 의한 객관적이고 과학적인 연구방법을 이용하여 입증하고자 시도하였다. Washington, D.C.와 San Francisco/Berkeley 지역에 위치한 7개의 대학교에서 1960년 부터 1975년 사이에 발행한 대학신문에서 연구자료를 수집하여, 체계적인 자료수집 및 분석을 위한 연구방법으로 사회과학분야에서 주로 사용되어 온 Content Analysis Method를 이용하였다. Content Analysis Method는 예비연구(preliminary study)의 결과를 기초로 인도 복식의 영향을 받은 미국대학복식의 형태를 크게 의복(clothes), 장신구(accessories), 직물(fabrics) 등의 3개 category로 분류하여, 다시 13개의 subcategory(kurta, midriff top, Nehru jacket/suit, Indian shirt/blouse/smock/dress, sari, Indian jewelry, Indian sandal, Indian urn, Indian bedspread. Indian embroidery, Indian print, madras, tie-dye)로 세분하였다. 복식의 형태에 의한 분류외에도, 대학신문의 광고나 기사에 실린 내용을 인도복식이 미친 엮향의 정보를 알아보기 위하여 Attribution information을 3 category(originated, attributed, connotated)로 분류하여 조사하였다. 더불어, 같은 문헌에 나타난 인도에서 도입된 4개의 주된 종교(Transcendental Meditation, Hare Krishna, Yoga. Divine Light Mission)의 빈도도 조사하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 13개의 가인도복식스타일(Indian style)의 Frequency(빈도), Attribution, Duration(기간)의 내응을 포함하는 표로 요약되었다. 또한, 연도별로 Indian style이 나타난 빈도의 Duration(기간)의 내용을 포함하는 표로 요약되었다. 또한, 연도별로 Indian style이 나타난 빈도의 합계와 연도를 축으로 하는 막대그래프를 작성하고 이 그래프에 Attribution Category의 내용도 함께 볼 수 있도록 정리하였다. 대학복식에 나타난 인도의 영향은 여성복식과 남성복식에 있어서 서로 유사점과 차이점이 보이는데, 인도의 영향이 여성복식에 있어서 그 빈도가 더 높고, 종류가 더 다양함을 볼 수 있다. 여성복식에 있어서는 12가지의 다양한 인도복식스타일이 나타났으며, 그중 가장 많이 보이는 스타일은 Indian Shirt/Blouse/Smock/ Dress이며, 그 뒤를 이어 Madras, Indian lowery등을 볼 수 있다. 남성복식애 나타난 7가지의 스타일 중에는 Madras가 가장 빈도가 높으며 그외의 스타일들은 그 빈도가 매우 낮음을 볼 수 있다. 인도의 영향의 정도 (Attribution Categories) 있어서는 여성과 남성복식 모두에 있어서 인도에서 직접 수입된(originated) item이 각각 전체의 90%와 81%를 차지하여, 인도복식의 영향은 받았으나 미국내에서 제작된(attributed and connotated) item 보다 휠씬 더 많은 수를 보였다. 인도복식스타일이 가장 많이 보여지는 시기(Peak period)는 여성과 남성복식에 있어 모두 1968년에서 1971년 사이로 공통점을 보였다. 이러한 결과는 미국 청년 문화에 전반적으로 나타났던 반문화적 현상과 동일한 시기로서, 이는 사회 현상이 복식에도 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있다. 또한 같은 시기의 대학신문에 나타난 인도에서 도입된 4 개의 종교 역시 1960년대 후반 부터 그 빈도가 증가하여 1970년에 리고의 빈도가나타낭으로서 앞의 결과를 뒷받침해 주고 있다. 본 연구에서는 Washington,D.C.와 San Francisco/Berkeley 지역의 대학신문만을 연구자료로 사용하였으나 앞으로는 새로운 연구 자료의 발굴과 연구대상을 타 지역으로 확대시키므로서 미국내 전체의 청년복식에 대한 이해를 증가시킬 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제10권1호
• /
• pp.69-84
• /
• 1986

The objective of this Paper was to identify the relationship between the fine arts, pop art and fashion in relation to its qualities, motifs, and techniques of graffiti and collage. The data of this study were collected from fashion magazines such as French Vogue and American Vogue from 1962 through 1970 and Elle from 1980, post cards and reports of costume exhibition in Victoria & Albert museum in London, and newspaper accounts and magazine accounts. The qualities of pop art were characterized as 1) Popular (designed for mass audience), 2) transient (short term solution), 3) expendable (easily forgotten), 4) low cost, 5) mass produced, 6) young (aimed at youth), 7) witty, 8) sexy and erotic, ana 9) big business. Pop art was rooted in urban environment. According to analysis of the data for this paper, these special aspects of that environment reflected on fashion in the 60's. Mary Quant, Zandra Rhodes, Y.S.L., Rudi Gernreich, Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges in the 60's and Castelbajac and Sprouse in the 80's showed Pop art dresses, mods fashion inspired by pop artists such as Hamilton, Donaldson, Allen Jones, Jasper Jones, Andy Wahol, and Keith Haring. New erotism of fashion was Produced by Y.S.L.'s see-through blouse, Courreges'a hipster pants, and Gernreich's bikinis which revealed the navel and the breast. T-shirts and dresses ornamented with Pop idols' faces, Pop graffitic motifs, and slogans, as a resistant to society, were begun to popular.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권6호
• /
• pp.82-96
• /
• 2005

This study focuses on the bag design as a creative design resource rather than on typical bag design as shown in previous research. 1'he purpose of this study is to develop creative and harmonious upper garments in good combination of bags and the sides of clothing. This study was performed with female college students whose age are front 18 to 24. The results of this study are as follows. First, bags are ideal for creative fashion in respect that they reflect modern trend. Second, ornamental materials such as string, chain, and buckle, which used to be details of clothing, are useful to present the characteristics of bags more effectively. This result has shown that details of bags are important determinant of entire fashion details. Third, it expands the sphere of expression of the bag, so the possibility of expansion to a distinguished expression of fashion design is recognized. From the study, we understood the structural characteristics and changes of detail of bags, proposing that the bags take important part in fashion design developments.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제6권1호
• /
• pp.23-31
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the satisfaction, practical use, preference in design and recognition of the Saenghwalhanbok in the adult females living in Gyeongnam province. The data used for this study were collected by questionnaires and 420 questionnaires were used for statistic analysis. The data were analyzed by using the SPSS 8.0 to perform the ANOVA, $X^2$-test, t-test. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Most women have Saenghwalhanbok for wearing in festive days. who showed good impression on the Saenghwalhanbok is high-educated people, and high-incommer showed positive preference as well. The color of blouse and skirt is different each other. The most preference color is soft color. The purchasing behavior on the Saenghwalhanbok was verified that there are planning of purchase because of convienience in wearing. The primary reason for not buying Saenghwalhanbok is price. So the goods of various level of price should be prepared, and the preference factors of purchasing for younger ages were color, patterns and design, and for old ages were quality of clothes, colors and patterns. Major application of the Saenghwalhanbok was found that wearing for festive days as it is Korean traditional costume.