• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.77-87
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• 2019

To improve rubbing fastness of the printed fabrics, the binder polymers for Digital Textile Printing(DTP) pigment inks were synthesized with miniemulsion polymerization using various acrylic monomers, which are MMA(Methyl methacrylate), BA(Butyl acrylate), and Self-crosslinking monomers, such as NEA(N-Ethylol acrylamide) and MAA (Methacrylic acid). The acrylic monomer compositions were varied when synthesizing the binder polymers and their particle size distributions, average molecular weights, and Tgs were investigated. The prepared binder polymers were applied to prepare Cyan, Black, Yellow and Magenta pigment ink for DTP and the prepared inks were used to dye cotton fabrics. Then, color strength, and rubbing fastness were also investigated to study the effect of the comonomer compositions of the binder polymer on the color strength and rubbing fastness of the resulting pigment inks.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.10-19
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• 2022

Humectants are chemical compounds which added to water based pigment inks for DTP (Digital Textile Printing) to prevent evaporation of water. The humectants usually have diol or triol type chemical structures and their -OH groups have possibility to react with functional groups of the binder polymers, such as ester, carboxylic acid, and urethane groups, acting as a crosslinking agent. The crosslinking reactions between polymer binders and humectants in inks can affect touch of the printed fabrics. In this regard, this study aims to investigate effect of chemical structures and added amounts of humectants in pigment ink on touch of dyed fabrics by using 1,6-hexanediol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, and 1,4-buthanediol with various amounts added to the mixture of a black pigment and a polyurethane type binder. Then, color, rubbing strength, touch of the fabrics dyed with the prepared pigment inks were evaluated.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.37-49
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• 2010

The Samguk-yusa(三國遺事) is one of the two classics of Korean ancient history together with the Samguk-sagi(三國史記); however there has not been any positive attempt to analyse clothing culture centering on the Samguk-yusa until now. Thereupon, this study aims to find the records related to fabrics, color and fashion appearing in the Samguk-yusa, and to analyse the fashion culture of the three kingdoms projected in the Samguk-yusa, referring to the Samguk-sagi and ancient Chinese reference books. According to the records in the book, the fabrics used for clothing of those days included Jikgeum-wimun(織錦爲紋), Geum(錦), Chaebaek(彩帛), Osaek-geumchae(五色錦彩), Geumbaek(錦帛), Geumsam(錦衫), Ma(麻), Neung(綾), Geum-su-neung-ra(錦繡綾羅), Poh(布), Daecho, Bira-geumjeom(緋羅金點), Gyeon(絹). Japchoe(雜綵), Robtyeom(羅緋染). Chimilpoh(緻密布), Gi(綺) and Whan(紈), and they had colors such as brown black(緇), black(黑), purple(紫), yellow(黃), blue(碧), clear white(素), white(白), five colors(五色). There is substantial amoung of report on Buddhism, and the terms used for Buddhist clothing included Beobeui(法衣), Nabeui(衲衣), Bangpoh(方袍), Gasa(袈裟) and Yueui(由衣). It is also ascertained that Gasa had a variety of Bira-geumjeom-gasa(緋羅點袈裟), Manap-gasa(摩納袈裟) and Geumra-gasa(金羅袈裟).

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.1 s.92
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• pp.53-60
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• 2007

In order to optimize the process for development of super deep black fiber, the silica-containing polyester fabric, SN2000, was investigated in terms of mass reduction process by sodium hydroxide, selection of high color strength dyes, and resin treatment. As the results, the mass reduction condition which used 15g/L of sodium hydroxide at $120^{\circ}C$ was determined and Dianix Deep Black Plus was selected for the best deep coloration at around 5% owf. Contrary to the prevailed understanding that the additional use of chromatic dyes would enhance the deep coloration, four kinds of chromatic dyes such as yellow, red, blue, and green dyes did not make great effect on the deep coloration. To increase the effect, the commercial resin that has low refractive index was used additionally and the resin made it possible to lower the lightness of the fabrics down to 8.7 which was generally accepted for super highly deep black fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.19-29
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• 1997

A natural colorant was extracted from Clove using methanol. The dyeabilities and fastness of silk fabrics dyed with Clove extract were investigated. The results obtained were as follows; 1. The colorant extracted with methanol was higher in concentration than that with boiling water and was represented high reproducibility. 2. The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 6$0^{\circ}C$ and 60min, respectively. 3. The color depths were observed to be decreased as follows; pre-mordant > after-mordant repeat dyeing > after-mordant > simultaneous-mordant 4. Clove extract dyed brownish black on the Fe-mordanted silk. In case of the other mordants, silk fabrics dyed yellow. 5. The dyed silks had poor light-fastness but good wet-fastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.808-814
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• 2013

In this study, The mixture of three kinds of pre-treatment agents, Carboxymethyl cellulose sodium salt(CMC), Sodium alginate and Dextrin, have been prepared for the better coloration of digital textile printing. To get sharpness of outline during digital printing process, the optimal formulation is the CMC and Sodium alginate mixture 1:1 ratio by volume. Cyan, Yellow, and Black colours are excellent on the Sodium alginate mixtures. But, Magenta is excellent in the CMC and Dextrin mixture. Sharpness and printability are closely related to viscosity of the mixture. The most optimal sharpness of outline achieved with a consideration of coloring, and field operations account for production when the viscosity of the mixed pre-treatment agent approximately is 10~13 cSt. Change in shade and staining of wash fastness for all the treated samples with the mixtures rated 4-5 grade. Both dry rubbing fastness to shade change and staining are good in the treated samples, whereas wet rubbing fastness rated 2-3 grade. To improve wet rubbing fastness, the Sodium alginate and Dextrine mixture, which rated 3-4 grade for Black color, is applicable. With exception of 3 rating to black color, Light fastness is 4 rating for the remaining three colors in the regardless of treatment condition and mixing of the pre-treatment agent. Dry cleaning fastness of all samples are also 4-5 rating.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.16-24
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• 1999

The effects of two-step fixation of steaming and baking on the dischargeability of cotton fabrics dyed with C.I. Reactive Black 5(Bl-5) were investigated when the concentrations of $K_2CO_3$ and benzaldehyde sodium bisulfite(BASB) were increased over 120/kg. Remarkably increased dischargeability resulted from baking for 3 min or more at 160t after steaming for 8 min or more at $102^\circ{C}$, but 120g/kg or more amounts of $K_2CO_3$ and BASB(50%) had little influence on dischargeability. Therefore the discharge mechanism can be suggested that covalent bonds between cellulose and Bl-5 undergo $S_N2$ attack by hydroxide ion formed by the reaction of $K_2CO_3$ and water in steaming at $102^\circ{C}$ first and then, through transition states they are cleavaged in baking at 160t to yield hydrolyzed Bl-S and compounds of BASB and Bl-5 isolated from fiber, which are undyeable and removed by washing. The effect of urea, one of the hydrotrope agents, on discharge printing was also studied. The result which dischargeability was greatly improved by increasing the steaming time from 8 min to 15 min at $102^\circ{C}$ or by increasing the amount of urea obviously shows that water in steaming and urea in print paste play an important role in discharge printing. And as an increase of the baking time from 5 min to 7 min at $160^\circ{C}$ makes it possible to improve dischargeability, it is once more confirmed that high temperature of about 160t is exactly required to discharge the dyed Bl-5. The colored discharge printing demands a more amount of urea because urea contributes to the putting color fixation as well as the discharge reaction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.159-170
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• 2014

Recent concerns about the PFOA(perfluorooctanoic acid), have been increasing, which is generally applied in the water-repellent finishing process of textile products. It has been proven through animal testing to be harmful to humans, as possible carcinogens and neuro-toxic material. Thus U. S. Environmental Agency has gone as far as requiring the material to be eliminated in its entirety by 2015. As a viable alternative to this water-repellent finishing agent, the development of C6 product is gaining its popularity. The effects of PFOA finishing on the silk fabrics were examined, and we reviewed parameters of the needed process for optimizing appearance and functionality of silk fabrics treated with eco-friendly water-repellent finishing agent. Cross-linking agent affected the most on black color of reactive ink, among the physical properties. The contact angle reading was the highest in $8g/{\ell}$ of concentration for all fabrics. All the fabric specimens, subjected to the DTP and water repellent finishing, exhibited higher stiffness, where rayon specimen showed the highest, compared to the untreated specimens. The results may provide basic information leading to the development of value-added silk fabrics with water-repellency without excessive deterioration of the delicate appearance and inherent soft touch.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.263-273
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• 2011

Digital textile printing(DTP) technology made considerable advances in recent years. In this study, a pre-treatment agent has been prepared for the better coloration of digital textile printing. The ink formulation contained three kinds of 5g thickener (CMC, Sodium alginate, Dextrin), 25g urea, 5g sodium carbonate, and 465g distilled water. The optimal sharpness of outline was found in the 1-3% concentration of the pre-treating agent with a viscosity of 10-15 cSt. Even if the color difference between untreated and treated samples was not apparent in the printing step, the color appearance increased after steaming. The color appearance of cyan, magenta, yellow, black reactive colorants increased in the order of CMC>Sodium alginate>Dextrin. Wash fastness to shade change and staining for the treated samples were 4-5 rating, while untreated sample was 1-2 rating. Also, the pre-treated sample with 1:1 mixtures had 4-5 rating. Both dry and wet rubbing fastness to shade change and staining were excellent in the treated samples, whereas rubbing fastness of untreated sample was 1-2 rating. With exception of 3 rating to black color, light fastness properties were 4 rating for the remaining three colors in the regardless of treatment condition and mixing of pre-treating agents. Dry cleaning fastness of all samples were also 4-5 rating irrespective of treatment condition and mixing of pre-treating agents.