• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.37-44
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• 2003

To know the penetration behavior of spilled oil into sandy beach sediment is very important, because the penetration depth of the stranded oil into the sediments is one of the most significant information to know effect of spilled oil on biological communities and to set up cleaning method. The purpose of this study is to clarify the effects of wave and/or tidal action on penetration of spilled oil into the sediments and to clarify main factor in oil penetration using sandy beach model. Specific conclusions derived from this study are as follows. Spilled fuel oil C penetrated into the sediments only by falling tidal fluctuation and not by wave action on sandy beach environment, and the first tide is most important for the penetration of stranded oil. Over 80% of bulk fraction in penetrated fuel oil C was concentrated to the top 2 cm sediment-layer. Moreover, the penetration of stranded oil into the sandy beach sediments was strongly correlated with the oil viscosity affected by temperature.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.564-572
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• 2019

Numerical simulation of the sediment by the Delft3d model was conducted to examine the changes in the sediment budget transport caused by long-term wave changes at the Maengbang beach. Representative waves were generated with input reduction tools using NOAA NCEP wave data for about 40 years, i.e., from January 1979 to May 2019. To determine the adequacy of the model, wave and depth changes were compared and verified using wave and depth data observed for about 23 months beginning in March 2017. As a result of the error analysis, the bias was 0.05 and the root mean square error was 0.23, which indicated that the numerical wave results were satisfactory. Also, the observed change in depth and numerical result were similar. In addition, to examine the effect due to long-term changes in the waves, the NOAA wave data classified into each of the representative wave grades, and then the annual trend of the representative wave was analyzed. After deciding the weight of each wave class considering the changed wave environment in 2100, the amounts of sedimentation, deposition, and the sediment transport budget were reviewed for the same period. The results indicated that the sedimentation pattern did not change significantly compared to the current state, and the amount of the local sediment budget shown in the present state was slightly less. And there has been a local increase in the number of sediment budget transport, but there is no significant difference in the net and amount of sediment movements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.444-452
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• 2009

Textural parameters were calculated from the surface sediments collected from Jinu-do beach in Nov. 2005 and May 2006. In Nov. 2005 and May, 2006, the grain size distribution of surface sediments shows that the mode of $3.0\phi$(i.e., 0.125 mm) dominated the west beach of Jinu-do, but in the east beach the mode of $3.0\phi$(i.e., 0.125 mm) decreased and the mode of $2.5\phi$(i.e., 0.177 mm) was apparently distinct, resulting in the more coarsening trend. Mean grain size of surface sediments also indicates little difference in the west beach between two investigations, but the increasing difference between mean grain sizes in the east beach, showing more coarsening pattern. Such seasonal pattern corresponds to the positive skewness in the east beach in May, 2006. As a result, after the winter in 2005, the surface sediments in the west beach of Jinu-do experienced a little variation, whereas the apparent coarsening of surface sediments occurred in the east beach by removal of $3.0\phi$(i.e., 0.125 mm) fine-grained sand particles. The observed seasonal change may be attributed to the different hydrographic condition and sediment delivery/removal on the surface sediments between the west beach and the east beach of Jinu-do through the increased precipitation and more freshwater discharge from the Nakdong River during the summer and the intensified wave and tide during the winter in the Nakdong River estuary.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.120-135
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• 2013

To investigate the changes in depositional environment around Gangneung Harbor, we analyzed the surface sediment textural parameters and topography data collected five times from February 2007 to February 2009. In the study area, sediments were mainly composed of sand and its sediment size became finer at offshore sites. During summer time, however, the sand grains became coarser than winter season near Namhangjin Beach, inside the harbor, and offshore areas. On the other hand, the grain size of Anmok Beach showed a gradual finer trend with time. Compared with the previous studies conducted before the completion of Gangneung Harbor construction, the mean grain size became finer on Anmok Beach, while it was coarser on Namhangjin Beach. The bathymetric changes observed over a 2-year period showed predominant erosion in the area of 5 to 10 m water depths and deposition in 2 to 5 m water depths. The shallower area less than 2 m water depths showed an alternating trend and yet slightly more dominant erosion process. The sediment textural parameters and the distribution of erosion and deposition have changed continuously. Results imply that such changes show long-term trends as well as seasonal variations in which the trend may have been formed after the completion of Gangneung Harbor construction.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.708-719
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• 2010

The Gochang-gun Dongho macro-tide pocket-type beach, located on the southwestern coast of Korea, is investigated in terms of the seasonal variations of surface sediment and sedimentary environment. Surface sediments of 45 sites in four seasons (May 2006-February 2007) are sampled across three survey lines (15 sites in each survey line). The surface sediments of the Dongho Beach are mainly composed of fine to coarse sands, and the ratio of fine sand is the largest. The average of grain size is the coarsest in the summer. The spatial distribution of surface sediments shows a coast-parallel band of fine and medium sands during three seasons of spring, fall, and winter, whereas medium sands dominated in the northern part of the study area during the summer. These results suggest that a tide is more effective than a wave in the surface sediments of the Dongho Beach during the summer.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1998

동해안의 강원도 양양읍 남대천 하구에 발달한 spit beach의 지형적변화(1979∼ 1996) 는 outlet의 위치변화와 해안선 모습의 변화로 규명되었는바 일차적인 변화는 해안에 평행한 spit의 성장이며 이차적인 변화는 spit폭의 변화(overwash across sedimentation)라 고 밝혀졌다. 해빈환경의 소환경(subenvironment)으로서 swash zone과 berm crest는 각각 의 특징적 퇴적상(조직매개변수)으로 구분되는바 이에 관한 분석결과가 기술되었다.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.45-50
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• 1975

Over 50 carbonate samples were collected from the Geumgeri coast, Jin Island Textural characters, percent calcium carbonate and nature of the carbonate sediment were determined. Apparently the carbonate beach sediments were derived from the adjacent nearshore. The carbonate sediments contain over 90 percent of molluscan sheel particles, especially oyster shell fragments. The volumetric contribution of the shell fragment to the carbonate sediments is so large that the pre-existed oyster-reef like banks in the nearshore off the Geumgeri coast, Jin Island represent a spectacular example of carbonate sedimentary processes.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.16-24
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• 2012

To study the seasonal pattern of sediment distribution and the transport tendency in Haeundae nearshore area; i) the grain size texture of surface sediment was examined in June, October, and December of 2007, and March and June of 2008, and secondary, ii) the transport tendency was studied by using a two-dimensional sediment transport model of Gao and Collins (1992), and finally, iii) the bathymetric changes were analyzed by using the data collected in February, May, August, and December of 2007 by Haeundae District Office. Spatial distribution of sediment texture, the tendency of sediment transport as well as the bathymetric change showed significant seasonal variations. From June to December of 2007, the eastern part of the Haeundae area, off Dalmaji Hill showed the coarsening of mean grain size with a prominent transport tendency toward the Haeundae beach. On the contrary, the western part of the area, off Dongbaek Island showed a fining trend of mean grain size, and the transport tendency toward the beach was relatively weakened. From December of 2007 to June of 2008, the mean grain size of Mipo Harbor became finer, and the transport tendency toward the central beach decreased. The mean grain size of Dongbaek Island became coarser, while the tendency increased in the direction of the beach. The areas of significant net accumulation and erosion were depicted based on the bathymetric changes between observation periods. During the period of February to May of 2007, net accumulation was observed on the eastern part of the study area, in front of Mipo Harbor. Erosion was generally occurred throughout the area from May to August of 2007. From August to December of 2007, erosion and accumulation was observed off Mipo Harbor and Dongbaek Island, respectively. The change of sediment facies also suggests the accumulation on the eastern coast during the spring, erosion around the entire coast during the summer, and accumulation on the western coast during the winter. The changes in the accumulation and erosion were most apparent during the summer when several typhoons have passed by, while unnoticeable during the spring.