• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.3_4
• /
• pp.429-440
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of men's shoulders through the criteria which represent the characteristic of men's shoulders. In addition, we introduce new bodice patterns depending on our classification. We have the fo11owing conclusions based on our sample size of 200 men's shoulders: 1. The result of factor analysis indicates that six factors are extracted and they consist of 62.3% of total variance. We then choose three factors as standard items for our classification of the shape of men's shoulders. 2. We divide the shape of shoulders into three categories: bent, slopeness, and thickness. Each category is divided into three subcategories. (a) Bent: If one's shoulders are bent forward or backward, then we call them front or back-bent type. Otherwise, they are called standard-bent type. (b) Slopeness: If one's shoulders have an easy or steep slope, then we call them easy or steep slope type. Or else, they are called standard slope type. (c) Thickness: If one's shoulders are thick or thin, then we call them thick or thin type. Otherwise, we call them standard thick type. 3. According to the frequency based on our data entries of 200 men's shoulders, we introduce five new types of men's shoulders. 76.5% of examined men's shoulders belong to one of these five types: (a) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type: (b) 9.5% of easy slope and standard-bent type; (c) 45.5% of standard slope and standard-bent type; (d) 5.5% of steep slope and standard-bent type; (e) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type. 4. The suitability of new basic bodice patterns based on the types of men's shoulders are demonstrated by the high approval rate of the subjects who participate in testing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.219-230
• /
• 1994

The purpose of this comparative research is to investigate the change of the drafting method of the basic patterns for women in Korea. Followings were the findings of this research: 1) The concept of the basic pattern could be found after the first of the 1950s and there was introduction of the many basic patterns. At first measurement couldn't be found. Gradually the personal body type could be expressed in the basic pattern through the practical measurements such as the width of highest bust level and the length of neck to bust. 2) Through the ages the changes of the basic patterns were between 1950,60s and 1980,90s distinctively at the back width back shoulder angle front and back shoulder height from biceps line back neck ratio(height/width) BP position at the biceps line the amounts of underarm dart underarm dart position from the biceps lines and front ease angle at BP line. 3) 4 Grouping the types of the basic pattern followings are their characters; 1st Munwha or Doreme style 2nd waist dart group 3rd underarm dart and rectangular front ease 4th the usage of many measurements like as front length upper bust girth etc.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.846-852
• /
• 2012

Pets (such as dogs) are considered as important as family members, this perspective is due to an aging population and the decreased size of the traditional nuclear family. The pet industry has been growing every year; subsequently, is useful to develop practical patterns and designs appropriate for the body structure and movement of pet dogs. However, studies to develop a new form of pet dog's wear patterns and designs are limited. This study develops a basic pattern that is easily used based on a pet dog's size, designs popular clothing items for pet dogs, and helps in the manufactures of pet dog's wear. The results are as follow: 1) Analyzed categories and popular items of pet dog's wear from the research of the prior studies and on-line pet dog shopping malls; three categories (everyday wear, street wear, and special wear) and six items (T-shirt, one-piece, coat, jumper, and dress, tuxedo). 2) Developed the basic bodice pattern and sleeve pattern after test-wearing and revising the experimental patterns referenced from prior studies. 3) Developed patterns and designs for six popular items based on situation and gender: one-piece (everyday wear), coat (street wear), wedding dress (special wear) for female dogs/T-shirt (everyday wear), hood jumper (street wear), tuxedo (special wear) for male dogs. 4) Developed the previous six items to illustrate the research results of the study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.54-65
• /
• 2014

This study developed basic pattern for competition figure skating wear for school girls. Figure skating wears are difficult for making basic patterns based on standard size chart, because girls' body size are slimmer and more slender compared to the general girl's and the competition wears such as, swim suit with sleeves are, closely in contact with the player's body. The competition wears for school girl was made with consideration of changing of the body shape, physical exercises, and various specificities according to stretch material. To raise artistic effect while doing beautiful motions, and to assist in facile technique motions, competition wears need to have enough ease on the side line from waist to armpit, from armpit to wrist, and in trunk girth including crotch girth. Also, to stand out in beauty, a costume designing has a proper skirt position, length, flare width, and a tight bodice according to the player's body proportion. Most of the customers are displeased at the high price, unfitness of size, insufficient design, and difficulty in access, since they are not sold in sporting goods store. Therefore, a competition wear's basic pattern was made through scientific and emotional process including concerns on material properties, room for activities, and ideal body proportion. Systemizing the basic patterns of production method will solve high repairing expenses, unsuitable sizing, and improve accessibility for purchase.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.170-185
• /
• 2013

The suitability of the pattern manufactured with the development figure was considered by reviewing the development conditions that can be directly connected to the basic pattern in the human body surface development figure with the cast bandage method. The method to prepare the sleeve basic pattern was based on the cylindrical surface development method, and the sleeve basic pattern covering the 45 and 90 degrees momentum of the arm-movement was made by using the cast-type body surface development figure prepared with the horizontal line of the sleeve hem placed horizontally in the plan and by combining the cast-type body surface development figure in the standing position with the figure in the moving position. The test clothing was prepared with the sleeve pattern adding the bodice pattern in the standing position and the momentum and was worn on the FRP replica. The relationship theory of the body surface development figure with the pattern was derived by reviewing the suitability from the wearing state. The sleeve-cap height of the sleeve basic pattern resulted in about 80% in the standing position when the needs for a physical activity are 45 degrees and the about 50% when the needs for a physical activity are 90 degrees. The additional size of the diagonal length of the sleeve-cap could be set as "0" if the sleeve-cap height is low by 50% and as 50% of the additional size in the standing position if the sleeve-cap height is 80%.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.59-71
• /
• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.10
• /
• pp.1754-1762
• /
• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.6
• /
• pp.33-46
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to present basic data for the standardization of the sizing system for children's wear by investigating the current production and sizing system of Korean children's wear brands. The result of conducting a survey of 20 brands show the following: first, regarding the age bracket of Korean children's wear, it ranged from 3~15 years old. Most of the brands divided up the sizes into 4 or 5 different groups. Second, the utilization of a bodice basic pattern was low during the manufacturing of a pattern, and the basic pattern had been used for the item. Third, the designation of garment sizes were done using height or height-chest measurement or height-waist measurement. Fourth, the brands used the smallest size as the basic size in most cases. Most of the brands had similar deviations for any grading deviations. In conclusion, it appears necessary to restructure the unity of size designation and the sizing system in order to establish the sizing system of children's wear, which features diverse age brackets and various body types.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.34 no.4
• /
• pp.217-226
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the better grading methods. Iresearch into the aspects of change in each body division, using the body surface shell. And Icalculate the amount of change in each body division, measuring the bodies of 40 females. The result of this study are as follows ; 1. According to the grading sizes, the aspects of change in each body division are irregular. 2. According to the grading sizes, the amounts of change in each body division are different. 3. According to the grading sizes, the amounts of change in each body division are showed in .

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.429-438
• /
• 2018

This study analyzed the fit-zone of the neck for females in their 60s. We considered the standard body types of females in their 60s and the four body types from the sixth Size Korea. The results of the study were as follows. We could not determine a pattern formula for the neck based on the changes in the body type of females in their 60s. However, the position of the lateral neck point generally showed a significant difference from that of females in their 20s. In the case of the shoulder angle, the point of the shoulder was angled slightly towards the back in all body types. It was also found that the curve of the neck circumference for both the collar and the bodice should have been smoother than what was shown on the 3D shape. The larger the height difference between the point of the back of the neck and the lateral neck point in the 3D shape, the smoother the design should be at the curve of the circumference at the front of the neck. A larger curvature in the front radius of the 3D shape increased the difference in the shape of the curve between the collar and the basic pattern of the bodice. Hence, a more careful design is required for these parts of the pattern. In addition, the more the front neck is bent, the smoother the circumference curve should be in the pattern design at the front of the neck and the collar.